Packhorse
Flashlight Enthusiast
I recently purchased a W200 which apparently is a copy of the Tilly Tec W30.
I have yet to see the tilly tec but by all accounts they seem very similar except the Tilly uses an optic while the W200 uses a reflector.
Anyway. The construction of the W200 is very good. The body is made out of some sort of plastic., probably acetal.
The head is made of aluminium.
Total legth is 200mm and 40mm diameter at the head.
I like the form of it and the attachment at the end for a bit of line to hold a snapbolt. I imagine it would fit really nicely clipped off to a chest D ring on a BP/W harness and then tucked under a bungy or inner tube.
It has 3 O rings sealing the body from the head. Activation is achieved from turning the head.
The front lens is held in by a O ring, pick this out and a 6mm thick lens drops out ( or can be pushed from the other side). There is another O ring that does the actual sealing of the lens.
It is recommended for the light to be run on alkaline AA's (3). I found that after 20 minutes of run time the light started to flicker. I have heard the same report from another purchaser. Its very anoying. Although I like the light in every other way the flickering is enough to put me off.
So now I have a dive light that I dont want to use. What to do? You guessed it, mod it!
There is a aluminium tube in the body that coducts from the - of the battery to the head. If you remove this then the body will take 2 18650 Li Ions (Wahoo!). Problem is there is no longer a source for the electrons to travel along. So what is needed is a new tube with a ID large enought to take a 18650 and OD small enough to fit in the body. I managed to fine a tube with the right ID but to large OD. A bit of machining sorted that.
Next required a custom LED/driver assmebly and also an aspheric lens with spacer rings. Both require use of a lathe.
I could have used the same aspheric as I did with the ISTs but decided on a 30mm aspheric instead that is capable of a 4 deg spot. The lens requires reducing its diameter which I got a local glazier to help me with. I defocued the lens alittle to give a 6 degree spot.
Overall Im pretty happy with the outcome. Its driven at 1 amp so I should get over 4 hours burn time with 2500ma cells.
As you can see from the pic it does have a halo caused by the use of a reflector behind the aspheric. Its mainly used as a spacer so painting it black would get rid of the halo but not effect the hot spot.
Im hoping to try another aspheric soon that will gather more light making it brighter and I should be able to set the focus at anywhere from 5 degrees up.
10w WA HID (trailtech "6degree" bulb
Modded W200
Both
What a P7 version would look like at 2.8 amp
I have yet to see the tilly tec but by all accounts they seem very similar except the Tilly uses an optic while the W200 uses a reflector.
Anyway. The construction of the W200 is very good. The body is made out of some sort of plastic., probably acetal.
The head is made of aluminium.
Total legth is 200mm and 40mm diameter at the head.
I like the form of it and the attachment at the end for a bit of line to hold a snapbolt. I imagine it would fit really nicely clipped off to a chest D ring on a BP/W harness and then tucked under a bungy or inner tube.
It has 3 O rings sealing the body from the head. Activation is achieved from turning the head.
The front lens is held in by a O ring, pick this out and a 6mm thick lens drops out ( or can be pushed from the other side). There is another O ring that does the actual sealing of the lens.
It is recommended for the light to be run on alkaline AA's (3). I found that after 20 minutes of run time the light started to flicker. I have heard the same report from another purchaser. Its very anoying. Although I like the light in every other way the flickering is enough to put me off.
So now I have a dive light that I dont want to use. What to do? You guessed it, mod it!
There is a aluminium tube in the body that coducts from the - of the battery to the head. If you remove this then the body will take 2 18650 Li Ions (Wahoo!). Problem is there is no longer a source for the electrons to travel along. So what is needed is a new tube with a ID large enought to take a 18650 and OD small enough to fit in the body. I managed to fine a tube with the right ID but to large OD. A bit of machining sorted that.
Next required a custom LED/driver assmebly and also an aspheric lens with spacer rings. Both require use of a lathe.
I could have used the same aspheric as I did with the ISTs but decided on a 30mm aspheric instead that is capable of a 4 deg spot. The lens requires reducing its diameter which I got a local glazier to help me with. I defocued the lens alittle to give a 6 degree spot.
Overall Im pretty happy with the outcome. Its driven at 1 amp so I should get over 4 hours burn time with 2500ma cells.
As you can see from the pic it does have a halo caused by the use of a reflector behind the aspheric. Its mainly used as a spacer so painting it black would get rid of the halo but not effect the hot spot.
Im hoping to try another aspheric soon that will gather more light making it brighter and I should be able to set the focus at anywhere from 5 degrees up.
Modded W200
Both
What a P7 version would look like at 2.8 amp
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