V3 Regulated Triple Discussion Thread

[ElectronGuru]

This thread is an expansion of the V3 Triple sales thread:

V3 Triple XPG 1100 lumen Fully Regulated Drop-ins​

• Fully regulated output between 4.8 and 9.5 volts
• Below 4.8v it drops out of regulation and continues running until about 3v
• 93% efficient driver with 2 lithium ion cells
• Integrated thermal overheating protection at 120C (248F)
• Shock and vibration tolerant materials and components
• Heavy duty positive contact spring
• Solid brass negative contact ring
• Tight fit for best thermal contact with your host
• Shock proof materials, components, and design
• Suitable for use in weapon mounted lights
• Hard anodized black finish for superior thermal emissivity and durability
• 24 gauge mil-spec wire with 19 strand, silver-plated copper conductors, teflon insulated
• Multiple independent LEDs for more output than single LED designs with similar wattage

Warnings:

• This light creates excessive heat
• This light may cause eye damage
• This light may burn the skin at close range.
• This light may cause combustibles to ignite
• This light is not a toy, keep away from children

POWER SUPPLY OPTIONS:

Example of setups.

• Surefire 6P, C2, Z2:

you can run 2xIMR 16340 for 20 minutes of runtime (not protected, so you need to be careful how far you discharge these cells)
​

• Bored Surefire C3, 9P, or 6P with extension.

you can run 2 x protected 18500 for about 75 minutes of runtime (shuts off when depleted)​

IT IS SAFE TO RUN THESE ON 2 X 17500 CELLS

This drop-in runs on 1, but is fully regulated with 2 rechargeable cells
It will give full output with 2 cells until they are completely discharged

With a single lithium cell, It will run at approximately 75% output (800+ lumens) in this configuration.
These are not regulated on 1 cell
A single AW 18650 2600mAh cell will provide an hour of runtime.
You can run a single 17670 for about 35 minutes.

DO NOT USE 1 or 2 PROTECTED 16340 WITH THESE
Protected 16340 are not recommended at this current draw.

Do not run primary CR123 in these. The boost driver will drain them harder and harder until the cells overheat, and may explode.

OVEREADY.COM​

 

[jellydonut]

Okay, was gonna post this there but will continue here instead;

If I understand the UI correctly, I don't understand why people who want a single mode don't buy one of the actual 3-modes however. Due to the flashing-error, it's 3$ cheaper than a single mode and if you don't want, you never need to see anything else than High, as it starts on High... :shrug:

I can't stand clicking mode change UIs. If you switch the light on and off again within five seconds the light will change modes. I guess most people wouldn't mind but to me that would be extremely annoying.

Besides, I intend to mount it in a Malkoff host with the hi/low switch ring when I can get a hold of them. Now that's a UI I can love. No unpredictable clicking electronic modes, a very simple and tactile analog twisty switch.

$3 on a $150 +/- module plus international shipping? I'm not gonna deal with clicky modes to save $3 on that.:sick2:

 

[9volt]

Info from a previous Moddoo post:

3 mode operation: high -> medium -> low -> high -> medium -> low ->
Turn power off, then on again within 5 seconds to change to the next level
Turn power off, then on again after 10 seconds to reset back to high
Automatically resets to high after tailcap lock-out or battery change
Light will return to high mode when left alone for about 10 seconds.

Calculated APPROXIMATE runtimes on 2 AW 18500:
High mode = 1 hour
Medium mode = 10 hours
Low mode = 60 hours

APPROXIMATE Out The Front output for a 3-mode COOL unit:
High mode = 900 lumens
Medium mode = 190 lumens
Low mode = 40 lumens

I use these on medium mode for hours while camping and the light never even gets warm

 

[9volt]

I just got mine in the mail and so far I'm really liking it. The the beam pattern up close is cool, it looks like a rotor from a rotary engine.

Mine is a little finicky about changing levels with a press instead of a click with a McClicky switch, is that normal? I've tried two switches in two C2 hosts with the same results.

90-95% of the time there is no flash when changing levels which is a nice surprise.

 

[ElectronGuru]

Mine is a little finicky about changing levels with a press instead of a click with a McClicky switch, is that normal?

Once on, forward clicky's are not as quick at off activated mode changes (which the Triple uses) as reverse clicky's. It may be simpler to think of it as high [unpress] -> medium [unpress] -> low. So for example,

if its off and you want low:

1) soft click (momentary) on
2) off
3) soft click on
4) off
5) hard click on


if its already clicked onto high and you want low:

1) off
2) soft click on
3) off
4) hard click on

 

[9volt]

if its off and you want low:

1) soft click (momentary) on
2) off
3) soft click on
4) off
5) hard click on

The soft clicks in this process are where it seems inconsistent. If the light is off (for <10 seconds) 3 hard clicks will set it to low every time. Soft clicking will sometimes but not always result in a mode change. I've got a different 3 mode drop-in that will change modes with a soft click in these hosts.

I'll try to post a video of what is happening.

 

[9volt]

Here is a video showing a couple hi-med-low cycles with hard clicks, a series of soft clicks and then a few more hard clicks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqPnob7gmfM

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

Here is a video showing a couple hi-med-low cycles with hard clicks, a series of soft clicks and then a few more hard clicks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqPnob7gmfM

Thanks for the video!


However, I don't see the pre-flash. Did I miss it?

 

[9volt]

THowever, I don't see the pre-flash. Did I miss it?

It's only preflashing on 1 out of every 20 or so mode changes. I'm not sure it happened during that video. It's difficult to capture it on an iphone because the light is so bright and the light sensor in the phone doesn't adjust fast enough. That also causes the high and med modes to appear more similar than they really are in person.

Here is a video that shows a preflash at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49eI6iDxr9A

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

It's only preflashing on 1 out of every 20 or so mode changes. I'm not sure it happened during that video. It's difficult to capture it on an iphone because the light is so bright and the light sensor in the phone doesn't adjust fast enough. That also causes the high and med modes to appear more similar than they really are in person.

Here is a video that shows a preflash at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49eI6iDxr9A

Oh ok, got it. If it's random, that's not a big deal. I hardly noticed the preflash either. Glad I picked one up!

 

[Troop#26]

Dan (ElectronGuru),

I recently purchased a V3 Triple Neutral. I have been using it in a bored M2 Host with a AW 18650-2600 cell. Recently my new AW IMR16340 cells showed up. I plugged them in quickly, prior to charging, to see if there was a noticeable difference in brightness between the 1000 lumen and the 750 I was used to, there was. I quickly changed out the cells, so I could charge the new IMR cells, I put the 18650 back in. The light would not turn on. I have had this problem before, when the light first arrived to me it would not turn on. I had to switch out the 18650 that was in the host with the "spare" that shipped with it and it turned on fine. I then swapped out the "spare" battery with the one that I thought was dead (that shipped in the host) and it too worked. I have now tried every 18650 cell I have. They are all AW's, 5 of the older 2200 mAh and the two 2600 mAh I ordered with the light. I have tried several of my AW 17670's as well, nothing. It wont light up at all on a single Lion cell. When I put the 2 X IMR 16340 back in I get like 30 lumens of light. I have tried charging the cells, disassembling, everything. Im a little worried that something went .

What did I screw up? Can this thing be made well again? Where do I send it and how much is it going to cost me?

I sent you an email as well!

Stephen

Edit: Dan has contacted me and is working to fix this problem. Very happy with the service. Will update when all is bright again!

 

[candle lamp]

I don 't have any surefire host. Instead, I have a solarforce L2P host compatible with surefire C3, 6P, and 9P. It fits to P60 sized led modules and much cheaper than surefire.
The greatest advantage of solarforce L2P host is that it runs on not only 1 x protected 18650 li-ion cell but also 2 x 18650 cells by using extension tube.
Therefore I want to use L2P host with V3 Triple XPG modlue if V3 Triple XPG module fit to my solarforce L2P well. But I don't know the size of the module.

P60 sized module is usually as follows ( It's from here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=217252 ) :
- bezel diameter : 26.5mm
- copper base diameter : 19mm
- height including support spring : 36.7mm (I'm not sure if support spring means positive contact spring.)
- height excluding support spring : 28.8mm
I attach a picture of typical P60 sized module. As you can see it, P60 module has support spring. But V3 has no support spring and has a positive contact spring only.

1. I would like you to give each size of V3 in detail.
2.Does V3 have no support spring ? Is it unnecessary ?

Thanks,

 

[Kid9P]

Dan,

Looking for a COOL Triple Cree XP-G.

Any idea when more will be made available?
I was hoping there some type of email signup for notifications
when they are available.

Ray

 

[Eric242]

Edit: sorry - posted something that doesn´t make sense

Eric

 

[Kraid]

Dan,

Looking for a COOL Triple Cree XP-G.

Any idea when more will be made available?
I was hoping there some type of email signup for notifications
when they are available.

Ray

:wave: There is! Go to the Oveready homepage and there is a spot for you to input your email addy for a newletter!

 

[Yavox]

Is it possible to have V3 with High CRI LEDs?

 

[Bladedude]

Hello Candle Lamp,
I do not know the exact measurements of the triple module, however I have a similar setup (L2p host, A001 head, s4 tailcap) and the triple will work but only with some modification. The brass contact ring on the bottom of the triple does not make contact with the lip on the L2p host and there is no contact spring with the triple. If you are set on making it work in your host heres a couple things you can do to get a tight fit and have it work:thumbsup:
You can buy some copper tape and wrap the triple for a tight fit and also make a copper ring to fit in the host to make the lip bigger for contact with the triple. Or (this is what i did) you can get an aluminum can and cut out a rectangular section to fit around the triple module and into the host. Next cut out a ring structure to sit on the lip in the host to make the lip bigger. Drop the aluminum ring in and slide the aluminum rectangle peice in as well. Next put the triple in and it should fit snug with no rattles and makes perfect contact!
I would post you some pics of my setup but I'm new here so I can't yet.

 

[Eric242]

I would post you some pics of my setup but I'm new here so I can't yet.

I doesn´t matter if you are new around here or an old dog, you´ll have to use a picture-host like imageshack.us anyway :wave:

Eric

 

[luxrc]

for those who's interested in discussing the electronics, conversion efficiency, modes UI etc - there's a dedicated thread on CPF, you're welcome - http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=278422

 

[candle lamp]

Hello Candle Lamp,
I do not know the exact measurements of the triple module, however I have a similar setup (L2p host, A001 head, s4 tailcap) and the triple will work but only with some modification. The brass contact ring on the bottom of the triple does not make contact with the lip on the L2p host and there is no contact spring with the triple. If you are set on making it work in your host heres a couple things you can do to get a tight fit and have it work:thumbsup:
You can buy some copper tape and wrap the triple for a tight fit and also make a copper ring to fit in the host to make the lip bigger for contact with the triple. Or (this is what i did) you can get an aluminum can and cut out a rectangular section to fit around the triple module and into the host. Next cut out a ring structure to sit on the lip in the host to make the lip bigger. Drop the aluminum ring in and slide the aluminum rectangle peice in as well. Next put the triple in and it should fit snug with no rattles and makes perfect contact!
I would post you some pics of my setup but I'm new here so I can't yet.

Hi Bladedude,
Many thanks for your kind reply.
I understand your comments a little, I'm a novice in this field.
I want to see your pictures to learn more.
Thanks again,
Candle lamp :wave: