WF-139 question

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hyperloop

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My first WF-139 gave up the ghost and didnt work, drained cells (18650 and 16340 with spacer) were put in and the lights stayed green. So i ordered another charger but this time around, when i put the cells in, the lights turned red but did not blink, is this normal for the current generation WF-139s?

I took out the cells for the time being and am surviving on my AA/14500 lights as the WF-138 i got for that one is still going strong after 2 years.

Can anyone help? Is it safe to use the WF-139 if the lights just turn red and dont blink?
 
I don't have one , but I'm thinking the red LED' may start blinking *brief green* the closer it gets to being fully charged. Then should turn solid green when reaches fully charged.

But monitor it closely at first till you know.

Charge in the middle of a concrete carport floor , etc. , Away from flammable items .

It would be nice if the blinking indicators and stuff could be standardized. Many drill pack chargers I own give opposite signals from ea. other.

We really do need some constant standards.
.
 
Use a DMM to verify the behavior of the charger. There's no way any person can guarantee that it is working properly from afar.

Just set a DMM to read DC voltage in an appropriate range (like 2-20V). Put the test leads on either end of the cell during charging and monitor the behavior...

If you don't have a DMM...

hmmm...

Cost of 2xWF-139+1xDMM = could have bought a Pila IBC ;)
 
My first WF-139 gave up the ghost and didnt work, drained cells (18650 and 16340 with spacer) were put in and the lights stayed green. So i ordered another charger but this time around, when i put the cells in, the lights turned red but did not blink, is this normal for the current generation WF-139s?

I don't know if this is the latest revision (something may have appeared lately) but there is a version of this charger that doesn't blink and has the 4.25V-4.30V OC voltage. Here is the list of three different versions of the WF-139 that I am aware of. The third revision overcharges the cells (at least some samples of it do) and has the trickle charge after the LED turns green.

EDIT: Naturally, I second the recommendation of checking with a DMM what the charger really does. I'm afraid that it should be done for every of the budget chargers, no matter what other CPF members saw when they measured theirs.
 
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