What is the EverLED cutoff voltage?
- Thread starter zmoz
- Start date
Wylie
Enlightened
zmoz,
Doug Owen posted this.
A week or so back I checked this and reported:
1 Volt, .01 Amps, 9 Fc (Foot Candles)
2 V, .46 A, 450 Fc
3 V, .42 A, 570 Fc
4 V. .35 A, 630 Fc
5 V, .29 A, 650 Fc
6 V, .24 A, 650 Fc
7 V, .20 A, 650 Fc
8 V, .16 A, 650 Fc
9 V, .13 A, 650 Fc
It is not exactly cut off but I hope it helps. Not very far to go I would think after 9 foot candle. As best I know it is not good to let your Nimh run that far down. I think once you start to notice a difference its time to charge them again.
Doug Owen posted this.
A week or so back I checked this and reported:
1 Volt, .01 Amps, 9 Fc (Foot Candles)
2 V, .46 A, 450 Fc
3 V, .42 A, 570 Fc
4 V. .35 A, 630 Fc
5 V, .29 A, 650 Fc
6 V, .24 A, 650 Fc
7 V, .20 A, 650 Fc
8 V, .16 A, 650 Fc
9 V, .13 A, 650 Fc
It is not exactly cut off but I hope it helps. Not very far to go I would think after 9 foot candle. As best I know it is not good to let your Nimh run that far down. I think once you start to notice a difference its time to charge them again.
[ QUOTE ]
Empath said:
The instructions that come with the lamp says " the Powersqueeze feature allows the EverLED to consume almost all the energy that the batteries contain, while leaving enough to avoid damaging recharegables".
[/ QUOTE ]
Hmmmm...............
Empath said:
The instructions that come with the lamp says " the Powersqueeze feature allows the EverLED to consume almost all the energy that the batteries contain, while leaving enough to avoid damaging recharegables".
[/ QUOTE ]
Hmmmm...............
radellaf
Flashlight Enthusiast
Exceedingly hard to believe given it doesn't "know" how many cells are involved or what type.
With a 4AA light on alkalines that are near-dead (.65V on the tester) I find I get as much light from a LEDcorp turtlelight I bulb as from the EverLED (white). The white and blue come on, blink off briefly, and then stay on. The green blips and stays off. Haven't tried the red, any my amber conked out after a half hour or so, I need to call about that...
With fresh NiMH AAs, of course, the white is much brighter, and I haven't found a light better than the "our best aluminum" for heatsinking a PR bulb, even a Maglite. Still out of stock at LEDcorp, though, last I checked. My area lamp is the worst, EverLEDs get to 140F in it.
With a 4AA light on alkalines that are near-dead (.65V on the tester) I find I get as much light from a LEDcorp turtlelight I bulb as from the EverLED (white). The white and blue come on, blink off briefly, and then stay on. The green blips and stays off. Haven't tried the red, any my amber conked out after a half hour or so, I need to call about that...
With fresh NiMH AAs, of course, the white is much brighter, and I haven't found a light better than the "our best aluminum" for heatsinking a PR bulb, even a Maglite. Still out of stock at LEDcorp, though, last I checked. My area lamp is the worst, EverLEDs get to 140F in it.
I wouldn't plan on running a two cell light until it died, you'd probably get away with it but there's a chance of reverse biasing (and killing) one cell. For sure you could easily do so with say a four cell light.
While my tests seem to say the current drops very low near the end, it does not go to zero. If you left it on and put it in the drawer I could see you easily loosing a cell.
When it gets real dim, shut it down and recharge/replace the battery.
Or so I see it.
Doug Owen
While my tests seem to say the current drops very low near the end, it does not go to zero. If you left it on and put it in the drawer I could see you easily loosing a cell.
When it gets real dim, shut it down and recharge/replace the battery.
Or so I see it.
Doug Owen
