What makes a tailcap tick?

[TwitchALot]

Between the debates about the reliability of twisties and clickies, I never found pictures or detailed explanations about the tailcaps themselves. What makes clickies make that click sound? Why are some harder to click than others? What makes one clicky switch more reliable than another, if there is in fact, a difference in reliability between tailcaps? Just how long can they last? Can anyone help me out here?

lovecpf

 

[kramer5150]

its the rotating / ratcheting plunger mechanics inside, as the rotating parts slide into and out of place and bring the metal contacts together. its basically a ball point click pen.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3287012&postcount=15

 

[bluepilgrim]

I've seen three types:
piston drive, as in the Nitecore D10
pushy contact with twisty, as in some of the Dorcy lights
inner push button switch (screwed in, and with a rubber cover), as in Romisens.

in the last, switches will vary a lot as to quality, spring strength, quality, and such.

 

[TwitchALot]

its the rotating / ratcheting plunger mechanics inside, as the rotating parts slide into and out of place and bring the metal contacts together. its basically a ball point click pen.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3287012&postcount=15

Hmm. I think it'd help if I could actually see how the tailcap functioned. As it stands, I have a non-functioning 4Sevens tailcap, but it doesn't seem easy to remove the metal "insert," if you will. Is it soldered on or something? How reliable are Fenix/4Sevens tailcaps vs other clickies? Is there a comparison thread of tailcap reliability and design by any chance? Thanks for the help.

 

[kramer5150]

Hmm. I think it'd help if I could actually see how the tailcap functioned. As it stands, I have a non-functioning 4Sevens tailcap, but it doesn't seem easy to remove the metal "insert," if you will. Is it soldered on or something? How reliable are Fenix/4Sevens tailcaps vs other clickies? Is there a comparison thread of tailcap reliability and design by any chance? Thanks for the help.

Hmm... I haven't seen a tailcap reliability thread discussion in quite a while. The forward clicky in my L1T=V2 has been very durable and reliable. 4-5 waist high drops straight onto the switch, landing hard enough to turn the light ON.

Don't even bother trying to repair it. Contact 47 CS... they will take care of you.

 

[TwitchALot]

Hmm... I haven't seen a tailcap reliability thread discussion in quite a while. The forward clicky in my L1T=V2 has been very durable and reliable. 4-5 waist high drops straight onto the switch, landing hard enough to turn the light ON.

Don't even bother trying to repair it. Contact 47 CS... they will take care of you.

47 CS already sent me a tailcap long ago when I informed them my light came with a dead one. But recently, another tailcap of mine just died (both of them the early, unanodized, versions), and I really wonder what's up and if there's a better way to make these things so that they're more reliable.

 

[kramer5150]

47 CS already sent me a tailcap long ago when I informed them my light came with a dead one. But recently, another tailcap of mine just died (both of them the early, unanodized, versions), and I really wonder what's up and if there's a better way to make these things so that they're more reliable.

twist switches remain my preference for the reliability, even though they are cumbersome to use.
You are already a step ahead having purchased from a reputable retailer. carry a backup maybe?

 

[gcbryan]

The part that's unrealiable is the micorswitch with a tiny button on the top.

In general as you are looking at the inside of the tailcap you will see a metal retaining ring. It may have two small depressions at 3 and 9 o'clock positions let's say.

Using needlenose pliers put the needle in those depressions and twist counter clockwise until it completely unscrews.

Now you can take out the circuit board which is soldered to the microswitch. In many cases there is a spacer that goes between the button on the microswitch and the rubber button from the outside.

So, when you press the rubber button it directly or indirectly pushes the tiny button on the top of the microswitch.

Sometimes it makes a good connection inside the switch thus closing contacts and completing the circuit and sometimes it's an intermittent connection and you get a flicker.

You can't fix the microswitch. You need to replace it.

I'm not suggesting that you not contact the company you purchased it from I'm just trying to paint a mental picture of...what makes a tailcap tick! :)

 

[TwitchALot]

twist switches remain my preference for the reliability, even though they are cumbersome to use.
You are already a step ahead having purchased from a reputable retailer. carry a backup maybe?

I already carry a backup.

he part that's unrealiable is the micorswitch with a tiny button on the top.

In general as you are looking at the inside of the tailcap you will see a metal retaining ring. It may have two small depressions at 3 and 9 o'clock positions let's say.

Using needlenose pliers put the needle in those depressions and twist counter clockwise until it completely unscrews.

Now you can take out the circuit board which is soldered to the microswitch. In many cases there is a spacer that goes between the button on the microswitch and the rubber button from the outside.

So, when you press the rubber button it directly or indirectly pushes the tiny button on the top of the microswitch.

Sometimes it makes a good connection inside the switch thus closing contacts and completing the circuit and sometimes it's an intermittent connection and you get a flicker.

You can't fix the microswitch. You need to replace it.

I'm not suggesting that you not contact the company you purchased it from I'm just trying to paint a mental picture of...what makes a tailcap tick!

Definitely helps. Thanks!