Which flashlights can double as weapon lights?

Zhukov

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Didn't see anyone ask this before based on a quick search...

Traditional weapon lights for carbines used to require shock isolated bezels to keep the filament from breaking. With LED's, this is obviously not a problem anymore. I would think any flashlight with a 1" diameter body putting out 80+ lumens with a forward/momentary clicky would work here.

What flashlights are there that fit the bill?
 
the malkoff iam sure is a great product but I thought the reason for getting a led flashlight was for greater runtime. It may be very bright but only being able to run it for 15min at a time just does not work for me.
 
Surefire M2 with P60 drop in from Malkoff is great!!! the M2 has a bezel with shock isolation system that will take a recoil form a rifle or a handgun.

Is there still a need to have a shock isolation system with an LED? There's no bulb filament to damage...
 
the malkoff iam sure is a great product but I thought the reason for getting a led flashlight was for greater runtime. It may be very bright but only being able to run it for 15min at a time just does not work for me.

This is for a weapon-mounted light. You'd only use the light VERY briefly in that scenario (like clearing a house), so more light = better.
 
Shock isolation is not needed with my dropins. The 15 minute rule is mainly for the plastic bodied lights. I've run them for an hour or more in my 6P and 6Z.Thanks, Gene Malkoff
 
If you're asking my dad anything as long as theres duct tape around. :twothumbs
 
Which other flashlights (other than Surefire) share the same P60 drop-in? Seems like there's not a real good reason to spring for the Surefire body. Anyone know if the P60 fits the Brinkman MaxFire LX?
 
i am not into guns as much as it would be fun to be. but there are some wirings, and styles of build and all in LED that would not take huge shocks or multiple huge shocks.
for example low endurance insulation on wires going through sharp edge holes in heat sincs, the wire moves enough and you get a eventual short.
stuff that is glued down sufficentally for a drop and all, but mabey not shock after shock after shock.
some solder points at emitters (like Lux emitters) would want to be solidified, the thin metal connection loose instead of glued down will move and eventually break, the blob of solder on them a weight.
stars mounted with thermal Paste, not epoxy, parts threaded without locktite type stuff.
(which makes them EASY to modify, and i dont mind)
i would want to see the innards of the light, and would at least mount it with rubber dampners, or internally modify it. the led itself is encased, but there is more to things than the led. even a protected li-ion cells could become a point of non-operation after many many shocks.

if its for fun, and not life issues, then no problems.
 
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Will the fenix L2D-ce handle shock from a .22 rimfire?:thinking:I think it could but I do not want to break my flashlight.:poof:
 
Shock isolation is not needed with my dropins. The 15 minute rule is mainly for the plastic bodied lights. I've run them for an hour or more in my 6P and 6Z.Thanks, Gene Malkoff

thanks for clearing that up I think i will get one now
 
Take a look at the Wolf-Eyes 6-H with the 170 lumens LED. I have one mounted on my M4. Works great and long run time with the rechargeable batteries. .
 
My P60 dropin is totally backfilled with aerospace quality heat cured thermal epoxy. There are no open cavities, left for wire rub, on the interior. That's why they are heavier (weight) than most similar dropins.
 

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