**Would you buy a HAIII finish Nuwai QIII?**

[GarageBoy]

Yes Please around 60$

 

[chiphead]

Oh yeah!

chiphead

 

[rdshores]

It has been pointed out in another thread that the aluminum used in some of the cheaper lights doesn't take well to HA III. I don't know if this might apply to the QIII or not.

 

[Niteowl]

HA-III would be way cool but it wouldn't make it work any better.

Add forward clicky, better lens, and no "Luxeon lottery" and it might be worth it. But then, how much more $ are we talking.....

Honestly though, I'm perfectly happy with the ones I have. No reason to disrupt the "value point", as others have pointed out. But then again, I'm one of those with five Ultra-G's /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif.

Mark

 

[nonbox]

I sent [email protected] and [email protected] an email requesting Nuwai QIII (TM-303X) in HAIII finish. I sent them the url to this thread. I hope they will read this thread and reply to my email.




__________________________________________________________________

http://free.hostdepartment.com/n/nonbox00

 

[idleprocess]

Good luck hearing from the US rep anytime soon - I sent an email a long time ago and it took the better part of a month to get anything back. I had more or less forgotten about the message when I got the reply.

 

[Santelmo]

Personally, yes there is no doubt that HAIII finish would be sweet, but as a real "user" light which I intend it to be, dings, marks and blemishes on my tools are what in the wood and leather products industry would term as "adds character". For a user, they're probably right.

 

[nonbox]

I received a prompt reply from [email protected]

Unfortunately [email protected] did not know what HAIII finish is. I informed him of what HAIII finish is and sent a link to pics of HAIII finished surefires. I have not heard a reply yet.



__________________________________________________________________

http://free.hostdepartment.com/n/nonbox00

 

[reefphilic]

It's alway easier to get it HAed on your own than to request the manufacturer to produce them. Furthermore, it become more exclusive if you custom mod it. I have thought of doing a small group HA of QIII sometime ago but I don't know if it can be easily stripped like the M@glite.

 

[Mags]

IMO, the body of the light has to be simple like the Mini Mag which made it so easy to strip down to bare metal right? The Q III has all this knurling and bumps which would make it quite complicated. Am I correct?

 

[karlthev]

yes

 

[wintermute]

Would some type of sandblasting or glass bead blasting work to remove regular anodizing? Or possible some type of chemical to strip it. Forgive me but I don't know much about the anodizing process. The powdercoating process is where my coating knowledge ends.

 

[Mags]

I remember reading a thread about Vital Gear bodies where a guy showed a VG body in bare alluminum. He said he used some kind of liquid chemical to sort of take away the HA. I also remember that he said you have to some good rubber gloves so the chemical itself sounds a bit hazardous if I spelled that right.

 

[wintermute]

I guess one can strip anodizing with a .1N solution of NaOH (PEU did it here). This can be made by adding .1 mol of NaOH to 1L of water. (FYI NaOH is 40.0g/mol, so .1 mol of NaOH is 4g. So you add 4g of NaOH to 1L of water.) And you get decently pure NaOH as Red Devil Lye drain cleaner at many hardware stores.

0.1N solutions of NaOH aren't very harmful at all, and small exposures shouldn't hurt your hands unless you are super sensitive. But, for those of you who don't like playing with chemicals like this cheap nitrile gloves will offer more than enough protection.

I am going to try to get the chance to read up on the anodizing process and see what other ways I can do this chemically.

So it seems that removing anodizing should be easy enough, but where would one get an aluminum body HAIII coated if one stripped off the old anodizing.

 

[wintermute]

Also, Aluminum is known resist corrosion exceptionally, and won't deteriorate using a weak .1N solution of NaOH.

But, at higher concentrations NaOH can react with the Aluminum creating Aluminum Oxide...and etching wouldn't be nice.

So, as you mix the NaOH crystals in water be very aware of any stray crystals that don't make it in to your solution container. I've had quite a few of them stick on my arm, and not realize it until 30 minutes later when I have a little red mark on my arm that burns. Its nothing severe, but if your flashlight happened to be on the counter, and one of those little crystals got next to it, it could possibly eat a little dimple in the metal. Nothing too bad, but annoying at the least.

 

[reefphilic]

Stripping the original anodising is simple and is the job of the plating shop. The knurling and knobs etc should not affect the process.

The mean problem is whether the QIII can be stripped( I mean disassembled completely) so that the metal body can be seperated from the electronic parts for hard anodising.

 

[ACMarina]

I'm pretty sure it can be. .

 

[RA40]

Here is a link for general anodizing.
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

More here:
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Anodizing/anodizing_aluminum.htm

 

[nonbox]

If Nuwai is only a distributer and does not make the Nuwai QIII, who makes it?

 

[chiphead]

You betchi!

chiphead