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cwloo

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Hi ,

Interested to know if anyone started any project with Cree XML ? Wonder what's the driver to use for a fixed light project that I am planning . Planning to run at 2amps for the efficiency or is that advisable to run at 3amps ?
 
By fixed lighting I assume you mean AC powered, and this starts to get tricky. The high 2-3amp current levels that people want to drive XMLs at are not as standard to achieve compared to the more standardized 700mA or 1000mA current requirements of AC LED drivers that are cheap and common. We get around this by using a standard DC/DC flash light-driver, Buck Block, or any number of Chinese DC/DC drivers in the 2-3amp range and then power that driver with an inexpensive but quality 12volt switch mode power supply (computer PSU for example works superb). IMHO, 2amps is as high as I'd go for XMLs in constant on use.

* edit - seems there are some higher amp drivers out there. Mean Well does have a 2.4 amp LPV-35-15 that will work fine if you want to drive multiple XMLs in series at 2.4 amp

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBH3MY/?tag=cpf0b6-20

For pushing a single XML at 2amps here's an APV-12-5 for less than $10.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2142053_-1
 
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hmmm, say if I have a 2.1 Amps meanwell 12v adapter around, I can connect in serial 4 XM-L ( 3.2 vol x 4 = 12.8 vol). It should be quite safe since there's still have plenty of room for the LED and meanwell adapter can adjust +/- 10% of the voltage supplied. Correct ?
 
It should be quite safe since there's still have plenty of room for the LED and meanwell adapter can adjust +/- 10% of the voltage supplied. Correct ?
Click to expand...

Should work. Given the driver can't handle more than ~2.1 amps it's not capable of hurting four XMLs in series. Fixed voltage is never the ideal way to drive at high currents, and you'll never know with any remote precision how much current is actually being used, but it should run.

I'd dial down the power supply all way first, then after connecting slowly turn it up. Won't hurt the LED's but I wouldn't be surprised if somewhere in the adjustable voltage range the driver starts to fault and either dims or starts flickering. Obviously you want to be turned down from this point.
 
blasterman said:
Should work. Given the driver can't handle more than ~2.1 amps it's not capable of hurting four XMLs in series. Fixed voltage is never the ideal way to drive at high currents, and you'll never know with any remote precision how much current is actually being used, but it should run.

I'd dial down the power supply all way first, then after connecting slowly turn it up. Won't hurt the LED's but I wouldn't be surprised if somewhere in the adjustable voltage range the driver starts to fault and either dims or starts flickering. Obviously you want to be turned down from this point.
Click to expand...

Great ~
I am planning to use 4 XML T6-3C which drive at 2.1amps, 3.2 volts each. It is suppose to draw about 26.88 watts and the intention is to replace the current CFL which is drawing 72 watts. The xml should produce about 2800lm and its about 70% of the current CFL output of 4400lm ( each "new" 18 watts CFL is about 1100lm). Assuming some light is lost for the CFL as some of the light get trapped in the downlight fixtures, I should be getting almost the same amount of light right ?

Any input before I go ahead and purchase the LED ?
 
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Done the setup above. Just to share the final look . 2 downlight with 4 XML T6-3C drive at 2.1amps using the meanwell NES-25-12.
IMG_6656-P50.jpg


The one closer is still running the CFL (18 watts x 2).
IMG_6660-P50.jpg
 
ledsupply has few AC drivers from 350ma, to 4A.
if you running the lights for long periods of time, i would recomend limit to 2A max.
 
Yup, 4 in series. Drawing about 12.8v in total @ 2.1amps. The setup is working fine for 3+ months. Planning to buid another array.
 
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Fixed voltage does work fine, provided you have a proper PSU and understand the forward voltage requirements. :thumbsup:

This method also works amazingly well with the latest Bridgelux, which have lower current requirements and higher voltage needs making them awkward with current regulated supplies. Just get a high current fixed voltage Mean Well, dial it in to the appropriate voltage, and just string more emitters in parallel as needed. No need for parallel calculations, and no thermal inrush BS. I'm really disappointed more people aren't doing this.

Nice job - looks awesome.
 
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