Zebralight H51 and Zebralight SC51 water issues and reliability

jama12uk

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I thought I had finally decided on the SC51 when I began to find reviews that question zebralight's reliability particularly in relation to waterproofing. It seems like most of the problems occur with headlamps without outer lenses. i.e. the H501 is water resistant to IPX whereas the new SC51 claims IPX8 (more waterproof).

Do you think the new SC51 will be more reliable generally and more durable than previous zebralights? Other lights tempting me for reliability factor are the nitecore D11 and the fenix LD10 but on paper the SC51 blows them out of the water in all respects with the possible exception of build quality. A flashlight is no good unless you can depend on it.
 
I think that there were some waterproofing issues with older Zebralight models. Haven't seen complaints about new models so far.
 
In the zebralight reliability poll there were only two models that seemed to pop out. The 51 series weren't among them. I've got a Fenix LD10 and a ZL H51F. Of the two I much prefer the ZL. The UI is much better and it has more output (although more diffused)

On a side note the ZL is also known for accidental activation so tailcap lockout is recommended. The Fenix doesn't have this problem.

The nitecore D11 seemed to have a rough start with very poor standby runtimes and poor effeciency. These problems seem to be fixed now but personally I'd look at the ZL first.
 
I just got my SC51w a few weeks back and it is extremely solid and well built. I have tested its waterproofness extensively, such as by leaving it fully submerged in a glass of water for a few hours (while turned on!) and also taking it hiking in a rain storm... It has held up extremely well. However, it has turned on in my pocket a couple of times...

I highly recommend the Zebralight flashlights and suggest that you consider the neutral-white version of the SC51, the SC51w... chances are you'll like it better :)

Hope this helps,
Woodentsick
 
I got an H51 about 2 months back and it is rugged, reliable, well built, has very well spaced modes, and a nice beam. It has been tested waterproof by me on several occasions and has never suffered any ingress. The common complaint still stands though the electronic switch does turn on too easily in a pocket but it doesn't take much of a turn of the tail cap to lock it out.
 
I have a question for those who already own an H51. I've been contemplating getting one for my dad to EDC at work. The one worry I have is of the H51's clip. Does the clip hold onto the light securely enough to keep the light from rotating too easily if, say, the light is clipped onto the side of a hat? Also, is the clip strong enough to hold onto the hat well enough to keep from sliding off?

The SC51 would probably be more in line with what I'd like to buy, but I'd prefer a two-way clip or bezel-up clip, due to the occasional need of "hat-taching." Maybe some of you know of a two-way clip that would fit on the SC51?

Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
 
I bought a Zebra SC51 and did a 10 minute submergence test in the bathroom basin. The water level was 1 inch above the light and the light was on and I left it there for 10 minutes. Did not consider leaving it in overnight or taking it to some depth as relaity has it the only water the light will see (as with most users unless diving) is the rain. No probs at all. Took the light out and dried it and it is just fine indeed. If you have any issues I am sure Zebra or your retailer will fix pronto. Love my SC51. Solid well bult light and 200 lumens on 1 x AA, gotta be good.
 
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Just a guess, but I'd say the Zebralights and the D11.2 are probably equally waterproof. The weak point for the NiteCore would be the thin o-ring at the switch.

Geoff
 
The one worry I have is of the H51's clip. Does the clip hold onto the light securely enough to keep the light from rotating too easily if, say, the light is clipped onto the side of a hat? Also, is the clip strong enough to hold onto the hat well enough to keep from sliding off?
Please see here and scroll down a few posts for a visual (part of a restored thread, so I can't link actual post). I use my H51w clipped to a hat, shirt, pocket, belt - incredibly versatile light with robust clip. It will not slip or rotate, unless you adjust it. Also, because of the switch location, I have not had one instance of accidental activation. It is by far my most useful light.

FYI, ZebraLight is shipping the high CRI H51c mid June - worthy of consideration, depending on your father's preference and work environment.

- Jas.
 
Perhaps this wasn't the smartest thing but I took my SC50+ swimming and it did fine. I used it in 2-3 feet of water. It was also clipped to my swim trunks pocket so it would have been 3 feet or so at that point too. I did this on multiple occasions for an hour plus and had no problems.
 
I seem to think some of the earlier water vs. H51 posts documented failures during cleaning under running water, which may be a more aggressive situation than a simple dunking. I also wonder if you're more likely to have trouble if you use the switch underwater.

Ted
 
OP, I can't really comment on the waterproofing of the H51 yet, but I'll give my impressions when I get the one for my dad ordered and in. However, my Jet-I Pro has never had any problems with being in water, if you like XR-E lights... It is quite nice with a 14500. I would also imagine the Fenix to be quite waterproofed.


JA(me)S,
I actually had already been looking through those posts before I posted, but thanks all the same. I saw how you made the elastic loop on the back of the hat. Nice. Some of the other modifications others have come up with for the Zebra's are quite ingenious, too. My main concern was how well the clip would hold the light up with the clip turned upside down from normal pocket carry, as I (and perhaps my dad) would be more apt to clip the light on the side of the hat just after the bill. My JetBeam works quite well there and is more balanced so it doesn't weigh the front of my hat down.
 
All lights on CPF are typically IPX-8 waterproof so all should be ok unless there is a manufacturing fault, bad oring or you do something odd with it.
 
All lights on CPF are typically IPX-8 waterproof ...

While this may be true of Zebralights, other lights popular with CPFers are rated less than IPX-8. Examples include most of the Inova (X and T series) and several Streamlight flashlights (e.g., ProTac, Stylus Pro, etc.).
 
jama12uk, I got the H51w in today. I didn't dunk it in water, but the o-ring at the tailcap seems to make a nice tight seal with the cap and get sandwiched between the top thread and the groove in the body tube. The one at the lens looks like it makes a nice seal all the way around as well (it looks evenly squished, looking through the lens). I can't really comment on the switch cover... Didn't want to take it apart since it's not mine. I think it'll hold up nicely, though.
 
It blows my mind that we struggle with waterproofing in this particular application. The use of o rings in the lights we buy is probably the most straightforward application possible: static seal, male gland. A properly designed o ring seal in this scenario should be rated to at least 1000 psi. Of course you have to consider the material of the o ring and proper fit, but every manufacturer should be intimately familiar with the o ring bible: http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD%205700%20Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf

In general, I have found almost every light I have owned to far exceed its water proof rating in practice. And by "in practice" I mean that I scuba dive with a stock L2p.
 
My 51c has been out in the bottom of the spa since last night, on low-low. Just got it out, and is still working, so I'll call waterproofing good. I did check and lube the o-rings before doing this, and of course YMMV.

John F
 
It blows my mind that we struggle with waterproofing in this particular application. The use of o rings in the lights we buy is probably the most straightforward application possible: static seal, male gland. A properly designed o ring seal in this scenario should be rated to at least 1000 psi. Of course you have to consider the material of the o ring and proper fit, but every manufacturer should be intimately familiar with the o ring bible: http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD%205700%20Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf

In general, I have found almost every light I have owned to far exceed its water proof rating in practice. And by "in practice" I mean that I scuba dive with a stock L2p.

Agree with Geo .... most lights should exceed their rating as it is only a piece of metal against rubber thus creating the seal, pretty easy indeed. The down side is when the orings wear out and also not so much the orings as the switch. As the orings in place are normally static there are no issues but if operating the light whilst under water then you may have concerns not so much in the front bezel rotate lights which have the oring in the head as the clicky or electronic lights that may, upon pressing, create a very small gap to allow water in. My 2 cents worth.
 
I got a H51 that I had to send back to Going Gear because it had reliability issues. Going Gear was nice enough to rip me off for $2.99 "shipping" fee on the return even though it clearly stated that purchases over $50 shipped free.

I am done with ZL and done with Going Gear. For $2.99 they lost a customer for life.
 

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