Heatsinking epoxy

Wits' End

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I mentioned this in a question and the responses were like I mentioned the Holy Grail. Well in a different topic Lambda kit . There was a link That refered to a couple epoxies and heatsink compounds.

So my question is, if I were making a 3-C or 3-D Luxeon mod with a 2 or 3 ohm resistor, would setting the LS small heatsink in this epoxy (which would be in contact w/the wall of the light) be enough heatsinking?
I think I can handle the rest of the mod but I'm not sure of making the heatsink disk. So would this method work?


[Edit--couldn't get link to work but you can get to it from the CPF/Lambda Kit Link]
 

ElektroLumens

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by witsend:
I mentioned this in a question and the responses were like I mentioned the Holy Grail. Well in a different topic Lambda kit . There was a link That refered to a couple epoxies and heatsink compounds.

So my question is, if I were making a 3-C or 3-D Luxeon mod with a 2 or 3 ohm resistor, would setting the LS small heatsink in this epoxy (which would be in contact w/the wall of the light) be enough heatsinking?
I think I can handle the rest of the mod but I'm not sure of making the heatsink disk. So would this method work?


[Edit--couldn't get link to work but you can get to it from the CPF/Lambda Kit Link]
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


It is best to let the heat sink metal touch the flashlight body. You can make the heat sink to set on the body and epoxy it there, or you can do what I do, which is to make the heat sink to go inside the flashlight lip. If you cut it just right, it will press in firmly. If you go a little small, you can epoxy it in, as I did with the 'Blaster' I sent to the LED Museum. It doesn't seem to matter, as long as the heat can transfer to the flashlight body.

wayne www.elektrolumens.com
 

signals

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Apr 12, 2002
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Grand Rapids, MI
In general you should have a good mechanical contact between surfaces, you shouldn't be using the epoxy AS a heatsink. The epoxy is most effective when it is thinnest. Although, the only way to know for sure is to try it...

I think either Lambda, or Elektrolumens has some info on their site about modifying the D cell MagLite for a Luxeon, and there is a link to a round heatsink that fits with just a little bit of grinding... It really doesn't look too bad. I've been thinking of making my own 2D3C mod to my 2D maglite with that heatsink.

EDIT: I see Wayne posted while I composed this...

-Kevin
 
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