Body Parts for L1T/L2T?

I`m wishing Fenix would offer bodies sold seperatly for the L1T/L2T head. And a 123 body as well. I have a L2T and love it. Anybody else want these options?

I just got my L1T today, and i am thinking about seeing if i can find a 123 body.

I wanted a 123 body for my L2P but 4Sevens no longer had them and reports no more were going to be made.
Maybe if we drum up enough interest, although honestly I'm very happy with my P1. That might have been another reason the interest isn't there to make them.

Yes Yes Yes!!!!

I was just looking at picking one of these up. If they sold a converter from L1T to L2T it would make things easy - best of both worlds!!!

How about a cr123 body w/a CLIP???

xaman said:

How about a cr123 body w/a CLIP???

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That would be perfect!!

Lite_me said:

That would be perfect!!

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Hell yeah, even a clip on it's own would be be nice!



CFU

Go to the Gerber tools site , send them an e-mail that you broke your gerber infinity ultra pocket clip, and they will send you one free. Oh and it fits the fenix L1T nicely.:rock:

hurld said:

Go to the Gerber tools site , send them an e-mail that you broke your gerber infinity ultra pocket clip, and they will send you one free. Oh and it fits the fenix L1T nicely.:rock:

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Hurld,
Didn't your mom teach you better than to lie?
I think the proper thing to do is buy the Gerber Infinity and use the clip.

I've modified my L1T head to work with a bare nekomane/4sevens CR123 body for the L2P, and lemme tell 'ya, it's a SWEET setup. This light will be my EDC for a long time to come.

If they were to produce more of these for the L1T/L2T, I would certainly buy more. I just can't imagine with the numbers of these lights that CPFers alone buy, that there's not a market for them. But, I'm sure 4sevens knows the market better than I do.

got a pic of that? could a totally ignorant and non-technical person make that mod

Sure do. It's not a completely non-technical mod. Here 'ya go:





It doesn't quite fit the L1T/L2T because the threads in the head are slightly deeper than the L2P. The end of the body needs to contact the outer ring of contacts on the circuit board inside. So, you can see in the second picture that I soldered some small bits of solid copper wire (about 22gauge, I think...) to the circuit board as closely to the threads as I could, without touching them, on opposite sides of the circuit board. If the solder or wire touch the threads, you will have constant high mode-no low mode.

One other important thing to consider is that the threads of the body have to make electrical connection with the threads of the head for the low-level mode to work, and contact with the added wire bits for the high mode to work. If you have an anodized body, you will have to strip some off. I didn't have to do this since my CR123 body was "bare".

I have a l1t head and tail w/ a Rcr2 body.
Great pocket light

Thanks for the info NutSAK, awesome looking light!!!


Here's a clip i put on my regular L1T:





Sorry for the terrible pics... it's a rainy day here, so had to do it indoors w/the flash.

The clip works great, helps make this light a much more useable EDC. I just ripped it off a carpet knife that I don't need to have a clip for, then painted it black.

I have the 123 body on both an L1/L2T head, and the L2P head. As mentioned, the L1/L2T head requires a conductive spacer between the head and body, but it works really well. Here are some quick handheld beam shots taken of the L2T head/123 body with the tailcap modded giving me 3 stages. The differences between the levels is much more dramatic than the beamshots indicate. The beamshots are taken with an inexpensive digital camera set to automatic.




Here is a lineup for size comparison including an L1P, HDS EDC, L2T/123, L2P/123, Nuwai Lamba Pocket Illuminator (TM-310H modded to Lux III), L0P, Arc Clone.


The clips on the 123 modded Fenix lights are from MiniMag lights. I might add the 123 bodied lights are the same length as the L0P.

xaman said:

Thanks for the info NutSAK, awesome looking light!!!


Here's a clip i put on my regular L1T:

Sorry for the terrible pics... it's a rainy day here, so had to do it indoors w/the flash.

The clip works great, helps make this light a much more useable EDC. I just ripped it off a carpet knife that I don't need to have a clip for, then painted it black.

Click to expand...

That's off a carpet knife?! I want one.
How is that attached? I can't tell from the pic.

The same 2 screws from the carpet knife. They were stronger than the housing on the fenix, so they threaded themselves into the 2 lanyard holes (just put a little loctite on the threads to help hold it.)

I pulled off 2 or 3 clips from different little cheap knives and things i had laying around the house and was surprised at how many of them would work.

I'm guessing the paint job will be the weak link, but that's easy to touch up occasionally.

Xaman, thanks for those clip pics. The clip looks like it was made for the Fenix--I'll have to hunt something like that down.

I would hate to see this thread die.

Folks, the Fenix L1T/L2T head with the nekomane/4sevens CR123 body is a wonderful combination for a useful, adjustable and bright EDC light. It's like carrying a very small L2T in your pocket.

These bodies are no longer produced, but if we show enough interest in them, another run might be possible. So, if you have any interest in these, please voice it in this topic!!

Thanks.

Does anyone have a beamshot to compare the normal L1T 1.5v AA against the 3.7v rcr123? i am curious to see how much difference there is in the beams.