MacTech
Enlightened
Just got my CR123a body for my L2T, very impressive construction, very well built, brings the length of the L2T down to slightly shorter than the L1P, it's about the same length as the L0P, slightly longer than the P1...
the pic below shows the difference in size with the stock L2T body
the output on high of my L2P-123A is slightly lower than my P1, but not by much, however the three levels of my L2T (i've modded the tailcap with a 10 ohm resistor to give a true "low" low)
I think the combination of the modded tailcap and 123a body make the L2T an unbeatable little pocket light, theoretically i could drop the
Here's some of my standard hallway comparison pics, the Fenix L1P was used to lock the baseline exposure setting on each shot;
Baseline pic with flash;
L1P;
P1;
L2T-123a on high;
L2T-123a on medium;
L2T-123a on low (10 ohm resistor);
and to compare my other 3-stage light, the L0P-SE;
High;
Medium;
Low;
the pic below shows the difference in size with the stock L2T body
the output on high of my L2P-123A is slightly lower than my P1, but not by much, however the three levels of my L2T (i've modded the tailcap with a 10 ohm resistor to give a true "low" low)
I think the combination of the modded tailcap and 123a body make the L2T an unbeatable little pocket light, theoretically i could drop the
Here's some of my standard hallway comparison pics, the Fenix L1P was used to lock the baseline exposure setting on each shot;
Baseline pic with flash;
L1P;
P1;
L2T-123a on high;
L2T-123a on medium;
L2T-123a on low (10 ohm resistor);
and to compare my other 3-stage light, the L0P-SE;
High;
Medium;
Low;