How do you keep the LS from unscrewing?

I received my first LS today. Very Nice Light. Only one question: Why is there so little thread engagement with the battery packs? I see 6 threads on the battery pack but each pack only screws in 1-1/4 turns before the light comes on. It seem that if you back it off 1/2 turn and drop it in your pocket it will easily unscrew itself.---Marc

Definately a known issue (and posted here already). This is problem only with the switchless 1x123 power pack.

Long story how we got here but basically, the new PCB's where orginally designed with the tailswitch in mind. We also wanted them to be backwards compatible. Sometime gave and it was the rushed switchless pack. As usual, there is at least one short term and one long term fix. Short term is use one of the other packs or a harder o-ring. Long term is the rev2 head.

Grrr.

Peter Gransee

Gransee,
I have often had my nose rearranged for sticking it in where it may not be wanted but I learn things the hard way and if I can help I would like to. Would a finer thread be in order or possible to create a tighter seal against the o-rings? I used an o-ring in somewhat the same manner in one of the original designs for the laser fishing rods. It was to align the unnoticeable line image created by the laser modules I was using at the time.
Just trying to help

Originally posted by MicroE:
Peter---Thanks. I just assumed that an order placed this week would have safely yielded Arc's best effort.
Now what should I do?
Live with it?
Buy hard o-rings?
Wait for the tail switch mod?

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Try this:

Remove O-ring.

Wrap several turns of thread in the O-ring groove.

Replace O-ring.

This should make the o-ring fit tighter against the head.

If you know any one with a lathe, you could bore the battery tube a little deeper.

I don't see the problem. My LS 123 takes 2-1/2 turns to unscrew. To turn off, I only back off 1/16 turn, or 1/8 turn if I'm putting it away in my attache case to ensure it doesn't turn on accidentally.

1/2 turn seems unnecessary. I'm totally lazy and I don't want to turn 1/2 revolutions to turn off then 1/2 to turn back on.

CNC Dan---Thanks. I own a lathe and I have measured and calculated that I can add another revolution in depth. It just seemed foolish to have to rework a product like this after I just shelled out so much money for it. I wouldn't have complained if it was a $25 light.---Marc

Originally posted by rodmeister:
I don't see the problem. My LS 123 takes 2-1/2 turns to unscrew.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">There must be variations.
Mine takes 1.6 turns from full ON to falling out.

It takes 1/2 turn from full ON to O-Ring out and loose and wobbly.

In other words, if you turn it off...via 1/2 turn, it will totally come loose in your pocket as the o-ring is out.

I use the lanyard hole to mark the start and stop of my measuring.

CNC Dan...Question??
Any pointers on turning the base? Our guy who does lathe work is really good. I will have him build one from scratch if I botch it. I am going to give it to him tomorrow. I know about the dimple in the bottom. How much do you think I can have him turn safely from the bottom.

MicroE
I feel your pain! LOL I used to have heated debates with our VP of quality control. I still have a problem with his strong view of quality ALSO being a perception.

What would happen if I used teflon plumbers tape on the 123 base? I never know if mine will turn on in my pocket or fall off.

Here is a thought.....

I can't be the only one with this problem.

I will ask our chap at work what he will charge to fix. I will ask him for a minimum charge...perhaps 6-7 bucks for his time if it is easy. There can't be too much to it.

We are a shipper for UPS so I will waive the usual charge of $5.00 extra.....so shipping should be about $3.50 and you will get a tracking number and insurance for $100.

THIS IS AN IF HE AGREES.
THIS IS IF HE IS SUCCESSFUL IN FIXING MINE.
THIS IS WITH NO GUARANTEE IF FOOBAR.

However...
He is very good. One of his latest jobs was for the White House in modifying some things for them.

PLEASE NO EMAILS TILL I GET THIS FIRMED UP.
I WILL MAKE ANNOUNCEMENT IF THERE IS ENOUGH INTEREST. I WILL OFFER FOR ABOUT 3 WEEKS TO GIVE ENOUGH TIME FOR EVERYONE AND SO THIS DOES NOT DRAG ON.

CLICK THIS LINK TO LET ME KNOW IF YOU ARE INTERESTED.

Click here to sign up if interested in mod for 123 base for ArcLS

I will set it to email me as I am going to be fairly busy from this Friday for about a week or so.

Peter---Thanks. I just assumed that an order placed this week would have safely yielded Arc's best effort.
Now what should I do?
Live with it?
Buy hard o-rings?
Wait for the tail switch mod?
Put the LS in a drawer and try not to think why I just spent $150 on a flashlight that falls apart?---Marc
P.S.---If I act like a tough customer (read: b*stard) it's because I have been a Q.A. Manager for many years. It's my job to abuse vendors. I hope that you take it with a grin!

I think the problem happens only on hybrid and not the original LS. Anyone got a hybrid without this problem?

Alan

Originally posted by KenBar:

CNC Dan...Question??
Any pointers on turning the base? Our guy who does lathe work is really good. I will have him build one from scratch if I botch it. I am going to give it to him tomorrow. I know about the dimple in the bottom. How much do you think I can have him turn safely from the bottom.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">He would have to measure the thicknes of the bottom to see how much there is before you break through. I would measure, but all my tools are at work. I would leave about.050" min at the thinest spot. You could also see about taking down some of the dimple, I don't think you need as much as there is.

I have made a few from scratch and the way I do the dimple is to drill a little undersize, getting the drill point to the depth of the top of the dimple.

Then with a solid carbide boring bar, bore to finish size down to the edge of the drill angle. Then at very slow speed feed in to about .065" past the drill point. The bar I use is sharpened to have a flat cutting edge the right width to leave the dimple. I then back out about .055" and face off the dimple to center.

I have only done this with 123 holders. The AA and 2AA would need a longer and bigger boring bar. I have such a bar, but I would need to modify the end to leave the dimple, and then it wouldn't be good for other uses. Good luck.

Thanks CNC Dan.
Starting new thread to make it easier for me.
The fix worked.
I will try and make it affordable.
It looks like Peter is getting right on it so a person may just want to wait.

With my hybrid...

From full on to full off - 90 degrees.
From full off to o-ring out and loose - 315 degrees.
From full off to apart - 720 degrees.

I never noticed before because I've always used the clickie.