Are P2D and P3D tailcap switches exactly the same thing?
- Thread starter Face
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mchlwise
Enlightened
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2006
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My understanding is that they're different sizes, though I don't have a P3d to compare to my P2d.
Have you tried tightening the retaining ring in the tailcap?
Have you tried tightening the retaining ring in the tailcap?
Kilovolt
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would first clean very well the non-anodized threads of the body and the inner threads of the head. Let's not forget that in the general mode the current flows only through them. In the case of my L1D CE this solved the problem.
As to tailcaps there is IMO no reason why they should be different between P2 and P3. Their only electrical function is to close the circuit.
As to tailcaps there is IMO no reason why they should be different between P2 and P3. Their only electrical function is to close the circuit.
Hi,
Thank you for taking the time to reply.
I have throughly cleaned all the threads with alcohol and was amazed by all the crud that came off of them. There was absolutely loads. Surely, these lights shouldn't be leaving the factory in this conditioned! I have since cleaned the threads and contacts on all of my other lights too!
Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to have fixed my P3D problem. It is like there is only one sweet spot that my low modes will work in and if the head isn't exactly in this position, no luck. This point seems to be virtually no distance at all from the turbo mode. On my P2D I can virtually unscrew the whole head, and the light will still be on the low modes.
I'm wondering whether to send this back to Fenix Store or not. By the time I have paid international shipping and insurance back to the US, it makes it an expensive P3D. It's a shame though because the tint is VERY white and I love the form factor of this light. It's also great that I can, theoretically at least, have all modes working on rechargables.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Again, many thanks,
Face
Thank you for taking the time to reply.
I have throughly cleaned all the threads with alcohol and was amazed by all the crud that came off of them. There was absolutely loads. Surely, these lights shouldn't be leaving the factory in this conditioned! I have since cleaned the threads and contacts on all of my other lights too!
Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to have fixed my P3D problem. It is like there is only one sweet spot that my low modes will work in and if the head isn't exactly in this position, no luck. This point seems to be virtually no distance at all from the turbo mode. On my P2D I can virtually unscrew the whole head, and the light will still be on the low modes.
I'm wondering whether to send this back to Fenix Store or not. By the time I have paid international shipping and insurance back to the US, it makes it an expensive P3D. It's a shame though because the tint is VERY white and I love the form factor of this light. It's also great that I can, theoretically at least, have all modes working on rechargables.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Again, many thanks,
Face
Ok,
So, if anyone else wants to know, the tailcaps are indeed interchangeable. At least in my case they were.
Whilst fiddling with the tailcaps, I noticed that the P2D tailcap spring was dead-centred in the cap, but the P3D spring wasn't - it's pointing off to the side - not by a HUGE amount, but enough to get me thinking that maybe this could possibly be the problem perhaps.
Maybe 4sevens has a spare tailcap switch he could send me. He seems a pretty decent fellow. I'll have to ask him.
Many thanks,
Face
So, if anyone else wants to know, the tailcaps are indeed interchangeable. At least in my case they were.
Whilst fiddling with the tailcaps, I noticed that the P2D tailcap spring was dead-centred in the cap, but the P3D spring wasn't - it's pointing off to the side - not by a HUGE amount, but enough to get me thinking that maybe this could possibly be the problem perhaps.
Maybe 4sevens has a spare tailcap switch he could send me. He seems a pretty decent fellow. I'll have to ask him.
Many thanks,
Face
mchlwise
Enlightened
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2006
- Messages
- 949
Face said:
Good to know about the tailcaps.
Again... Have you tried tightening the retaining ring in the tailcap of the P3D?
When you look inside, there is a silver ring surrounding the spring.
The ring has two indentations in it.
These are used to tighten the ring.
You need to find a tool, such as needle-nosed pliers, or sharp scissors, or a similar tool that will go into both indentations.
With the tool, turn the ring clockwise, tightening it (if it's loose).
Sounds like this could be the problem. If it's not, you can do the reverse, and unscrew the retaining ring to remove and inspect the switch.
Ok, an update...
I couldn't get the tailcap switch apart - I don't have the proper tools.
But I have worked out the problem and cured it.
Basically, one of my AW RCR123s was a little tight in the battery tube and this seems to have been causing the problem. I tried it with 2 regular 123 cells and the light is perfect.
So, I removed the AW foil labels from the rechargable cells, and they are both a very easy fit now and the problem has gone away completely. Yay.
Thank you very much for all you rhelp and advice.
Face
I couldn't get the tailcap switch apart - I don't have the proper tools.
But I have worked out the problem and cured it.
Basically, one of my AW RCR123s was a little tight in the battery tube and this seems to have been causing the problem. I tried it with 2 regular 123 cells and the light is perfect.
So, I removed the AW foil labels from the rechargable cells, and they are both a very easy fit now and the problem has gone away completely. Yay.
Thank you very much for all you rhelp and advice.
Face
