Fenix P2D: Fixed or adjustable focus?

Newbie Alert!!!

This is my first post but I have been lurking for a little bit trying to figure out what first decent light to get. I went with a Fenix P2D because of the small form factor, runtime, and brightness.

I ordered two, one for myself and one for my dad and I just got them in the mail. (I also ordered a bunch of Titanium brand CR123A batteries based on suggestions here).

So it took me a minute to figure out how to switch between the turbo and general mode and it was because the first light I pulled out is turning in 3 places on the light. It is like a mag light where it is unscrewing and the LED is pulling back from the reflector. It is not doing this on the other light. From what I have read it is NOT suppose to do this correct? It will also unscrew at the battery tube / LED assembly junction (which also changes modes) and at the battery tube / switch junction.

So I'm not sure if it is suppose to adjust beam focus or if it is suppose to be fixed. If it is suppose to be fixed would it be safe to unscrew it and put some teflon tape in there to tighten it up so it wont inadvertently rotate while changing modes?

Sorry for the longwinded post. Excited about the new toy but a little concerned at the same time. Thanks!!!

Ryan

Welcome to CPF!

The reflector part of the head is not supposed to unscrew, it's supposed to be Loctited together. But since you already have a loose reflector section, that will make it easier to replace the LED with something more more efficient and brighter.

What version of the P2D did you buy, the Cree, Rebel 80 or Rebel 100 version?

Hi,

I got the Rebel 100 version.

I dont mind that it will unscrew I guess, I just dont want it to turn before the turbo/ general mode. I probably wont use the turbo much but it would be nice not to have to worry about the reflector unscrewing.

From what I have read the Rebel should be good for now and I dont think I have been bitten hard enough by the 'bug' to start making mods yet.

Would some teflon tape or a drop of red loctite secure it but allow removal later on?

Thanks!

Ryan

Your "problem" is inconvenient, but not dangerous.

In other words, it would be better if it was harder to unscrew so that you could know you're changing modes and not unscrewing the reflector assembly... but there is no danger that the light will be damaged because it's loose.

You can try teflon tape, or loctite, or just cranking it down hard to see what works best. :shrug:

Ryan, good to hear you've started your torch obsession with a P2D, they're great little lights.

The ability to unscrew the bezel is actually an advantage: 1 - you can easily open it to remove dust etc, 2 - if your P2D is one of the models with a smooth reflector then you can unscrew the bezel slightly to adjust focus a bit and help remove beam artifacts.

In fact, many people try to unscrew the bezel, and depending on how tight it is it can take a lot of force - I actually managed to damage one of my P2Ds doing it. Consider yourself lucky

If you are going to use loctite, don't use red.
Blue would be a wiser choice.

mchlwise said:

Your "problem" is inconvenient, but not dangerous.

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Won't this compromise the water-resistance? :mecry: I have one on order, and I'll certainly use it rain, probably around sea water. Salt water intrusion would certainly be dangerous to the light and battery...

Buck said:

Won't this compromise the water-resistance? :mecry: I have one on order, and I'll certainly use it rain, probably around sea water. Salt water intrusion would certainly be dangerous to the light and battery...

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There's a pretty fat O-ring sitting underneath the bezel. Keep it lubed and I'd very much doubt there'll be water intrusion. I wouldn't take it diving though...

gadgetnerd said:

There's a pretty fat O-ring sitting underneath the bezel. Keep it lubed and I'd very much doubt there'll be water intrusion. I wouldn't take it diving though...

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Yeah.

You should be able to unscrew the reflector assembly from the emitter assembly a couple turns or so before the o-ring is exposed. As long as the o-ring is not exposed, it will be as water-resistant as if it was screwed tightly together.

gadgetnerd said:

There's a pretty fat O-ring sitting underneath the bezel. Keep it lubed and I'd very much doubt there'll be water intrusion. I wouldn't take it diving though...

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No worries. I have dive lights for that. All with Luxeons, I'm afraid.

It wasn't too clear to me where his light was coming open, and if that was at an O-ring, or if the loctite was supposed to be forming a seal. (Is it any good at that?)

Thanks for the replies guys.

Does anyone know if the reflector is screwed all the way down from the factory? It seems to me when I do screw it all the way down it takes away any kind of spot and is all spill. Its like it needs to be backed out a few turns to get a spot like the other one (just like a maglight). This of course makes the junction less tight increasing the 'problem.'

Even turned out though I still dont see any threads much less the O-ring. Guess I will start off by putting some teflon tape on and turning it to where it looks like the spots are the same on both lights and see how well it holds it. Then on to the blue loctite if that doesnt work. Just not sure how the loctite and grease are going to get along.

And on a side note I am kinda suprised at the difference in color tint between lights. One is definitely more purple than the other. From what I have read I thought the Rebels had a pretty uniform color between LEDs.

Thanks again!

Ryan