Ready to buy Fenix rebel light, couple of questions first

Just thought I would run a couple of questions by you guys. I'm hoping to be order one of these come Friday. The light will be my primary carry light, replacing this 1W Dorcy that I keep in my pocket. I will also probably be using it to supplement my Apex when caving (which reminds me, I need to order a P4 and mod that baby too).

I'm debating between the P2D and the P3D. I would rather have the P3D due to it's higher high and lower low output but I'm concerned about how well it will fit into my pocket.

One of my complaints about my current pocket light is that it sometimes gets turned on in my pocket, draining the battery. Is the Fenix equally susceptible to this issue or is it a bit safer in that regards?

What is the runtime with rechargeable 123 cells vs primaries? I've already figured out from reading here that the single cell LiIons don't work well for the P3D. Which is better to go with also, the 3.7v or the 3v RCR123s? I'm also nervous about having two rechargeable cells in series but my understanding is that as long as they're protected they should be fine, right?

batterystation.com rates their CR123 primaries at 1300 mAh capacity. Most other ones I've seen only seem to be rated at 750 mAh I believe. Would it be safe to say that they are overstating the capacity? Are their cells not protected? Or are they actually just superior in some way?

Lastly, is there another light I should consider instead of the Fenixes? What attracts me to the Fenix is their high output and nearly dead flat regulation and the fact that they seem quite reasonably priced for what they are. I'm not dead set, though and would be willing to consider another type.

Lots of good questions.

I've got both the P2D and the P3D. I can't answer a lot of what you asked, but I'll throw out an opinion on a couple things:

If running the light on rechargeables is important to you, get the P3D. I haven't found a rechargeable 123 cell that will run the P2D AND maintain all the modes. All the cells I've tried, including the ones advertised to be 3.0v come off the charger at more than that, and you lose the low modes until the battery drops... and then there's little runtime left.

The P3D is a little bigger than I like for EDC, but it's not a huge light by any means. I can easily be carried in my pocket... but your pockets may vary.

I think the P3D is less likely to be turned on accidently than your Dorcy, because if I remember right the Dorcy's switch isn't flat to the tailcap like the Fenix is. Regardless, a quarter turn of the tailcap on the Fenix will lock it out if you really want to be sure.

As far as possible other lights, you might want to check out the LiteFlux series. The LF3 runs on any 123 size cell, and should be comparable to the P2D as far as performance. It is, however, a twisty. It's programmable, but can be somewhat complicated to operate.

Thanks. Where can I find the LF3 at to have a look?

Also, aside from the AWs, is there any certain brand I should look for in rechargeables? Ditto the charger.

AW also sells a 2-bay 3.7V charger, the UF-139, I believe. It charges RCR123's, 17670, and many other sizes. Mine works great.
Save yourself some time and money and buy both the rechargeables and the charger from AW. He combines shipping charges so be sure to ask.

If your light is going to be a backup caver, between the 2 lights listed I would go with the P3D simply for the added runtime. I've carried mine for a few weeks, and my only complaint on handling is that it doesn't offer a very secure grip. The entire length is mostly smooth, and there's no clip, ridges or lips to grasp onto. I might put a thick o-ring around the tailcap.

Avatar28 said:

Thanks. Where can I find the LF3 at to have a look?

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This is the sales thread in the marketplace:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=168491

In the first post in that thread is a link to a review of all the LiteFlux lights. They look pretty cool, but again are twisties and may be confusing to operate fully.

They don't so much strike me as confusing. But from looking at the graphs, it doesn't seem like they have the same regulation as the Fenix lights appear to. All in all, I'm strongly leaning back towards the P3D at this point and then ordering a goodly number of Primaries for it from amodotech.com or batteryjunction.com.

Gah! I'm torn between the P2D and the P3D Rebel. On the one hand I would rather have the P3D for it's slightly greater output and longer runtimes. But the P2D is slightly smaller which might make it easier for EDC. Batterystation I've noticed also has a great deal on mismatched ZTS CR123 cells ($0.60/ea shipped) but they're only usable for single CR123 applications because of it. I wish I had somewhere local I could go check out the two lights and see how they fit. I know what the specs say, but how much real world difference should I expect in difference between the two models brightness-wise? I'm not nearly experienced enough to have even a general idea what x lumens translates to visually.

Avatar28 said:

I know what the specs say, but how much real world difference should I expect in difference between the two models brightness-wise? I'm not nearly experienced enough to have even a general idea what x lumens translates to visually.

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Check out this review I posted:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/174565

The difference in output between the P3D and the P2D isn't as much as you might think.

Sounds like you found a great deal for single cells, and the P2D won't disappoint you and will DEFINITELY fit in a pocket.

If i were you i would go with they p3d . Size-wise its perfect (bout the same size as an e2 surefire). The p2d isnt *that* much smaller and the extra battery life on the p3d more than makes up for it.

I run my p3dce with 2 123 lithion and love it to death.

If you are really that unsure you always have the option of buying the body for the p2d if you get the p3d and find its too long.

TrevorNasko said:

If you are really that unsure you always have the option of buying the body for the p2d if you get the p3d and find its too long.

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I don't think the P3D head will run off a single cell, it will give a low voltage warning.

I've head the P2D will flash when you turn it on on low and the P3D won't. The flash might get annoying. You might be able to run the P3D on the P2D body with a RCR123 battery, but with less runtime.

Gunner12 said:

I've head the P2D will flash when you turn it on on low and the P3D won't. The flash might get annoying. You might be able to run the P3D on the P2D body with a RCR123 battery, but with less runtime.

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It will run with a 3.7v but you wont get Turbo for very long on the CE and no Turbo at all on the Reb100.

Runtime on high will not be very long either.

Dave

Does anyone know how much of a wait (if any) there is with these lights right now?

I've been a little disappointed lately with the fact that Fenix still seems to have not done anything with fixing their lights that run multiple levels on rechargeables to be able to go to a low level like they do on primaries. For this reason they generally become a one or 2 level light and so why pay that much for that? I think now there are other lights beating Fenix in function and equal to in quality or close and they are a lot less. I really like Fenix but they need to fix that problem since many people are going to rechargeables. It saves the Planet and anything that resists that I'm not going to support as much as other choices when available.

Take a look at in the Reviews on the Ultrafire Rebel - onthebeam did a review on it. It's the one with the side switch FMR1 - one of the sweetest lights I've found in quite a while for an inexpensive light. The side switch is great. Bright as they come in a small reflector light. And it actually has a 'low' when running on RCR123's.

Okay, well, I finally decided on the P3D Rebel 100 for my new baby. I've spoken to David at the Fenix Store and he has been absolutely WONDERFUL. I would have no hesitation whatsoever about recommending these guys to anyone. He patiently answered all my questions, even though I'm sure he gets them several times a day. If he misses my call, he's been prompt to call back even if I failed to leave a message.

Unfortunately even though the light shipped out, I haven't seen it yet. *cry* It was supposed to be the big part of my birthday present (which is today). Unfortunately I missed the upgrade to priority mail option (and it should only be a couple of days from Atlanta to Nashville in any case). But the light still hasn't arrived. Way to mung up a birthday says I. To make it worse, I bought Halo3 last night but since I haven't gotten the light, I've got to wait on opening that so my family can give it to me. So double disappointment so far. I'm not disappointed with David and the gang, though, but rather with myself and the stupid Post Office for taking their sweet time.

Anyways, there seemed to be some confusion on a few things. The P3D, since it uses a buck circuit, has no problem running from 3.7v rechargeables. David told me that he has (unofficially) tested one of the P3Ds up to 16v input and it still worked fine with all the modes. I didn't ask about the flash but that doesn't seem to be an issue on the P3D according to most people anyways. He said that with the rechargeables they sell the light should get about 75% runtime with the 3.6v cells (as they tend to have slightly more mAh capacity and the higher voltage means less current is required of them).

Does anyone have experience with the Ultrafire 3.7V RCR123s from batteryjunction.com? Ditto with their charger. Also where can I find a CR123 sized spacer? The Ultrafire charger they have requires a spacer to be able to charge RCR123 batteries and they don't have one. I believe Matt suggested that some people have been using magnets but recommended I check with you folks on here for suggestions on that. I would like to order from there as the Ultrafires have slightly more capacity than other RCR123s I've seen (like the ones at batterystation.com) and I believe Ultrafire is more of a name brand? Also Matt and his wife were also very helpful and very responsive when I contacted them and I like to reward service like that.

I think the ultrafires are too long which prevents the head been fully screwed down so it wont go into turbo mode

Bunk3r said:

I think the ultrafires are too long which prevents the head been fully screwed down so it wont go into turbo mode

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Well, crap. That sucks. What brands of RCR123s (preferably with more than 750mAh capacity) DO fit? I'd rather prefer to get rather more than an hour of runtime in turbo mode since there's a good chance that, at least when I'm caving, that's the mode I will be running the light in.

I've been carrying a Fenix L1T in my pocket every day (same clicky as the ones you are considering) for more than a year now and I have only found it to be turned on in my pocket a couple of times. But I'm not sure if it turned on in my pocket or if I just forgot to turn it off before putting it back in my pocket!

I doubt, however, that I would ever kill the battery in my pocket. It gets a little hot in there with the light turned on and that is how I noticed it.

AW and Battery Station RCR's fit and work fine in my P3D RB100. No magnets needed. I think both are rated at 750mAh though. AW's WF-139 charger comes with spacers for RCR123's.