Sofirn SC13 First Impressions

jon_slider

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11.jpeg

Sofirn provided me this Review Sample free of charge.

User Interface:

My Lumen Meter, which is not exact, gives some idea of the modes.

Hold from off: 1 lumen (not memorised)

from On, hold cycles 3 main modes (will memorize at turn off)
8 lumens
122 lumens
330 lumens

double clic (from off and from on) 800 lumens (not memorized)
from 800 lumens, double clic to strobe (not memorized)

Features:

When first turned ON the button LED glows Green for 5 seconds with a full battery

has tailmagnet
weight 62 grams w stock 18350 and clip

switch button is on a raised platform that protrudes from the head
the USB-C charge port cover is also on a raised platform, on the opposite side of the switch.
I can find the button by feel in the dark, it is not illuminated.

stock battery is button top,
there is physical reverse polarity protection
my flat top keeppower 18350 also works, which means the light can serve as a travel charger and backup battery carrier for my 18350 and 16340 lights

During Charging the button LED is Red. Charge rate starts at 0.74A and drops to 0.42A as the battery nears full charge.
The button light turns green and charging shuts off, when the battery reaches 4.2V.

Opple 3 data for the SST-40 6000K:

CCT 5700K
CRI 61
DUV 0.0127

1 lumen mode has very low PFM, (Pulse Frequency Modulation), about 2% fluctuation, that produces a very Low Flicker Index of 0.0040.
2.png


8 lumens mode has 96% fluctuation and produces a High Flicker Index of 0.5838.
1.png

No visible PWM because the frequency of the pulses is very fast, about 40KHz

Modability: not easy to open without damage.

There is a press fit bezel and it would need to be pried out to remove the lens and access the LED.
I can get my fingernail under the bezel lip, but was unable to lift it using automotive plastic tools for door panel removal. A blade or small screwdriver might work, but will probably leave marks in the anodising.

What I like:
Nice small form factor with a contoured waist that works well for cigar grip.
Easy UI and useful beam w large floody hotspot.
Built in charging works for both 16340 and 18350

What I would change:
The LED is Low CRI
 

jon_slider

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Decided to change the LED, since Im not a fan of Low CRI:
VPE2R73.jpg

but this was the greenest 519a Ive seen and I was not satisfied, so decided to Dedome it:
8h5gmI0.jpg

the light is difficult to open, because the bezel is pressed in.. took a lot of hammering to get a screwdriver to lift the bezel.. not pretty:

N0IxB0X.jpg

rUt6jVp.jpg

so I disguised the damage by polishing the bezel:
XOM9aIr.jpg

Suprisingly, despite many hammer blows, the light still works.. but its not a mod I would recommend..
the Tint now looks like this:
fZ1HeP3.jpg


sometimes things dont go as smoothly as hoped. ;-)
the dedomed 519a is not a good match for the flat Tir..

I much prefer modding the Sofirn SC21 Pro.. the bezel is screwed in, no hammer needed.. LOL
 
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vicv

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Might need a bit of dc fix to smooth out that beam. Jump from low to med is pretty big too. And med to high is too small. A ~60ish lumen medium would be better. Still not bad. How is the regulation? Sofirn is weird. The sc21 is excellent. Then the hs10 which is basically the right angle version, is non existent
 

jon_slider

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hs10 is still available

much easier to open for modding, the bezel is screwed in

I dont think much of the mode spacing.. Im spoiled by ramping UI's.. the HS10 does have a ramping mode

but the driver is not regulated.. for that I buy the Emisar D2
 

vicv

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Yes. IMG_1527.png
And converting to our less valuable Canadian dollar, it's closer to $70

Edit. I see the confusion. When I said, HS 10 is nonexistent, I meant the regulation on it. There isn't any. Which is a shame because the SC 21 is basically the same thing and it's excellent. Me saying it's pricey was talking about the Emisar D2.
 

jon_slider

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oh, yes, D2 is expensive.. it IS two lights in one, it has Anduril, and it is regulated.. but yeah... money

The D2 is also Very picky about batteries, it will NOT work w the TS10 battery.. which is why I hesitate to give a full recommendation of the D2

And yes the SC21 MINI IS regulated, and inexpensive, and easy to LED swap

fwiw, I believe the SC21 series is being discontinued..
 

vicv

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oh, yes, D2 is expensive.. it IS two lights in one, it has Anduril, and it is regulated.. but yeah... money

The D2 is also Very picky about batteries, it will NOT work w the TS10 battery.. which is why I hesitate to give a full recommendation of the D2

And yes the SC21 MINI IS regulated, and inexpensive, and easy to LED swap

fwiw, I believe the SC21 series is being discontinued..
Ya. Looks good though. As to the sc21, looks good but the ts10 covers those needs. Think I need to get a headlight next. My last purchase hasn't even arrived yet. Lol
 

jon_slider

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headlight
the Skilhunt H150, is regulated, accepts AA as well as 14500 (including the TS10 battery), has built in charging (proprietary magnetic cable), includes a headband (D2 does not)

otoh, the H150 switch button sticks up, makes it easier to use, but requires lockout imo (I unscrew the tail)
 
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vicv

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the Skilhunt H150, is regulated, accepts AA as well as 14500 (including the TS10 battery), has built in charging (proprietary magnetic cable), includes a headband (D2 does not)

otoh, the H150 switch button sticks up, makes it easier to use, but requires lockout imo (I unscrew the tail)
Thanks. I was looking at more the h05f. But I'll look at that one too. Skilhunt seems to do dual fuel well as well
 

vicv

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H04F is 18650, MUCH better runtime than the H150
but afaik the Skilhunt is not potted.. which is why an Armytek or a Zebra could be a better option.. some discussion here
I meant the mini. Doh. Ho4f mini is the one I have my eye on. Want light weight as it'll be used for short times.
Don't care about potted really. Won't be using it as a baseball.

Sorry we've totally derailed your thread. It's an excellent review
 

jon_slider

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Sorry we've totally derailed your thread. It's an excellent review
I dont mind at all. I enjoy sharing info w you

the mini has a great reputation.. I trust you will enjoy it.. though I have no experience w it, I trust Skilhunt.. my H150 seems like a solid, reliable light..

It mostly lives in my car emergency kit.. fortunately, Ive not had any emergencies. ;-)

the main reason I went w the H150 is because I want the ability to use AA if the LiIon freeze (it snows here), or also because LiIon lose charge in Summer heat in a car. (we reach 90F).
 

vicv

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I dont mind at all. I enjoy sharing info w you

the mini has a great reputation.. I trust you will enjoy it.. though I have no experience w it, I trust Skilhunt.. my H150 seems like a solid, reliable light..

It mostly lives in my car emergency kit.. fortunately, Ive not had any emergencies. ;-)

the main reason I went w the H150 is because I want the ability to use AA if the LiIon freeze (it snows here), or also because LiIon lose charge in Summer heat in a car. (we reach 90F).
Good me too. That's a good reason. I hope you're using an energizer lithium in there. Alkaline isn't much better for high and low temps than lithium ion. My vehicle light is a convoy m1 I built with an sst-20 4000k and a buck driver at 1A loaded with 2x cr123a for low and high temps. The headlight would be for playing fetch with dog at night. Bbqing. Short walks with a throwy light in my hand. Ect
 

jon_slider

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I hope you're using an energizer lithium in there
yes, actually, as a test It is loaded w its LiIon, and I have a battery case w an Eneloop and a pair of Lithium Primary as backups:
2.jpg


> loaded with 2x cr123a for low and high temps.

we think alike, though I avoid dual battery configurations, my emergency kit in my snowshoeing backpack is a Novatac w a raised tail button, loaded w a single CR123a, and a battery case w a couple spare CR123a.
c37AnD3.jpg

the winter light has a raised button, for ease with gloves on:
IMG_5786.jpg
 

vicv

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Nice set up. Personally, I think the CR 123 danger is a bit overblown. I only use made in USA Panasonic cells, from the same batch, and I never mix them. And I don't run my lights until they are so dim you can't see anything. There is some risk, but I think it's small enough that it's worth it. But I do agree that it's even safer if you only stick to having one.
 

jon_slider

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I never mix them
good strategy ;-)

I believe these lights exploded due to mismatched voltage of dual CR123a batteries.. not positive, but I avoid dual batteries because of it:



 
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vicv

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good strategy ;-)

I believe these lights exploded due to mismatched voltage of dual CR123a batteries.. not positive, but I avoid dual batteries because of it:




You are correct that is the reason why that incident happened. As long as you don't have mismatched cells, it's not a problem. Obviously, each person has to decide on their own comfortable amount of risk. That incident also made everyone terrified of Olight. Even though it had nothing to do with the company.
 

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