Lubrication of SF threads & o-rings

Spence

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I've found that WHITE LITHIUM GREASE works great on my flashlight threads. However, SureFire maintenance instructions warn: "no petroleum based lubricants on SF rubber o-rings". Does anyone know if White Lithium grease contains any petroleum? Are there any good recommendations for silicon products, comments, please?
Also, I'm curious what certification is the "CE" for on the SureFire products?
:thinking:
 

Size15's

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Are there any good recommendations for silicon products, comments, please?
I use NyoGel lubricant as used by SureFire themselves.

Also, I'm curious what certification is the "CE" for on the SureFire products?
I don't know the exact details but since January 1 1996, most electrical and electronic products to be placed on the market in the EEA (European Economic Area) must comply to the following requirements as detailed in the EMC Directive (Directive 89/336/EEC as amended by 91/31/EEC and 93/68/EEC):

'Products must be constructed so that they do not cause excessive electromagnetic interference and are not unduly affected by electromagnetic interference. Certain radio-transmitting equipment must be subjected to EC type – examination by a notified body.'

The EN 61000 series of standards for Electromagnetic Compatibility (EMC) is used to test the products; as is EN 55014-1:2006.

CE marking could be based on a self-declaration, involve testing, inspection or quality system assessment from a Notified Body or a combination of these.

Products must not be affixed with CE marking until all necessary certifications have been obtained.

Al
 

pipspeak

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Li grease is usually synthetic but ultimately you probably don't want to use a high-temperature industrial-strength grease for a flashlight IMO, unless it's overheating like crazy!

IMO nyogel is rediculously overpriced. Instead go to a local bike shop and pick up some cheaper teflon synthetic grease. Usually costs about $5 for a tube twice the size of nyogel.

Hydrocarbon grease will slowly dissolve the rubber on the O-ring, as I discovered many years ago when I used vaseline to re-lube a maglite only to find a year later that the o-rings were shot.
:oops:
 

jumpstat

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Nyogel for all my surefire threads...
Krytox (from the Sandwich Shoppe) for McGizmo titanium threads (or you can just use plumbing tape)..
 

Crenshaw

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uh oh is there something seriously bad about using petroleum based products?

Crenshaw
 

Crenshaw

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Oh no!
nyogel will be looked for on my next trip to the hardware store

Crenshaw
 

yaesumofo

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I have been using magnalube, not just on my surefire's but ALL of my flashlights, for some years now, and have been doing so with great success. I have never had any sort of lubrication related failure for as long as I have been using the magnalube.
It is wonderful stuff. I suggest you go to the website magnalube.com for more information.
One feature I really like is that it will not migrate when it warms up. There are so many lubes that when they get HOT or WARM they loose their viscosity and spread out becoming thin and useless.
As I said I have not had a single O-Ring failure since I started using MagnaLube. I have it working on a large quantity of flashlights which get cleaned and lubed on a semi regular basis. The threads and O-rings are always in great shape.
Yaesumofo
 

Illum

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white lithium grease works only if you don't subject the light in hot places [including if you leave the light on and it warms up]...white lithium grease will turn itself into white lithium powder or this even higher viscosity gel that doesn't do much good lubricating :shakehead


I use nyeogel 760G :nana:
 

Spence

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I was pretty careful not to get the lithium on the o-rings, but I'll have to give them a thorough cleaning, now. What would be best to use on the rubber o-rings, besides Q-tips?

:oops: :shrug:
 

Pierat

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Not only will I give Nyogel another vote, I will add this regarding it...... If your REALLY intent on making sure its done properly, ive learned that Nyogel while clear glows under UV light.... Also while it might be more expensive, it does go a long way, you only need a very little ammount.
 

kirko

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Lithium grease IS potroleum based meaning is is based of oil. Silicone grease is based on silicone, a synthetic compund which is less harsh on natural products like rubber. I mean, condoms use silicone based lubricants because they will not deterirate latex, a natural rubber. I guess it doesnt matter what lube i put on my surefire, because it is in contact with engine oil and grease everyday.

Anyone ever get new orings from surefire? If i call them can i order them for my e2d? I might try calling them sonetime this week maybe, cant be that expensive for a few orings i imagine. At my shop we have 2 full cases of orings in all sizes, im more worried about getting the window bezel oring because it looks like a proprietary oring.
 

mrmojorising

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Why not just replace the OEM o-rings with some made of PTFE, viton, etc...They can stand up to most any chemical you would want to lube them with.
 

Daniel_sk

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What I don't like about Nyogel is, that it pretty fast gets a silver color and collects all the dirt. I know that the silver color is aluminum from the threads. But is the abrasion so fast that after a week of very slight use - the nyogel is again dirty? I feel like I am shaving off something off the threads after each use. Maybe after few years, there will be no threads on the body? (this happens also on my SF A2, which has one of the better aluminum alloys). Is this normal with every lube?
 

chmsam

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Threads like this are abundant and easily searched, but there is a ton of debate.

The basics as I recall them for this topic are that:

- some o-rings don't like petroleum products and better safe than sorry but check with the manufacturer,
- pure silicone grease usually will do the job well (available in plumbing supplies, auto supplies, scuba dive shops, Lighthound, etc., etc.),
- any lube application should probably be proceeded by a good cleaning of all the surfaces to be lubed,
- less is more works well for lubes and will keep crud from collecting a bit less,
- WD 40 ain't for lubing lights and/or o-rings,
- Wax based lubes might work for threads but I would not use them on o-rings myself,
- DeOxit is a contact cleaner and will remove oxidation from contacts but is not a lube, and
- Too much heat is a bad thing (duh!) for lights and lubes.

As always, YMMV, but here's what I do -- every six months to a year (or if it feels like it needs it), I disassemble the light, clean it with a clean shop rag, cotton swabs (being careful not to get lint in the threads), and a little alcohol if needed. After that I hit all the contacts I can with DeOxit Gold and let that dry. This includes batteries after they are checked. I use silicone grease sparingly on all the threads and inspect the o-rings and lube those. I put 'em back together and don't worry about them. Works for me and has for years. The only problems I have every had are batteries dying (Ya know, they tell me they will do that from time to time as the light gets used. Who knew?) and an old style SF Nitrolon G2 twisty tail cap came apart.

I use the lights I have a lot, some live in the car year 'round, and while I do have backups (not too many since I am a very poor man) I don't recall more than one time that I have needed one. That last bit of course doesn't include when someone has to borrow a light and is usually right after they ask why I carry more than one. :whistle:

Again, for more details, discussion, rumors, and arguments on this topic, try any number of searches.
 
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