Energizer 3W rechargeable

Well I was in Walmart today and I saw this Energizer 3W rechargeable on clearance, so I bought it on impulse assuming I can return it if I'm not impressed.

It comes with ac/dc chargers for the included 3x 1/2A 1000ma battery pack and snap on red and green filters.

The thing is, I can't find on the packaging any reference to the actual light output or the specific LED employed.

I've fully charged it now and although it's quite bright and nicely finished I can't quite decide if it's as powerful as I really wanted.

Does anyone have experience of this item, for instance is it 'out dated' now? Also, can it be modded to make more light?

Thanks in advance for any input!!

I'm pretty sure it's a Luxeon III so you could do a Seoul swap or something. I pretty sure you can't return clearance items, even at Wal-Mart.

I remember there being a Cree Energizer Recahrgeable.

Can you see the LED? If yes, what kind is it?

Gunner12 said:

I remember there being a Cree Energizer Recahrgeable.

Can you see the LED? If yes, what kind is it?

Click to expand...

Does this help?







This is the same item:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00111DKN6/?tag=cpf0b6-20

That's definately a Luxeon.

Luxeon for sure. Looks like it would make en excellent Seoul P4 mod-host, assuming its decently regulated. Looks like it has good heatsinking, straight to the body.

Ah right, so what is the output of that Luxeon emitter?.

What would be the output of the Seoul P4 upgrade, would it be expensive and can I do it myself?

If you can solder and have thermal compound/can buy some(thermal epoxy recommended) then you should be able to do the mod. If you want lowest price, the Seoul P4 LED is around $5 shipped from DX.

Glad to see someone else picked up one of these. After bringing mine home a couple weeks ago was surprised that I couldn't find any info on CPF.

Would the Seoul P4 upgrade change the beam pattern? This light has a focusable head that does an acceptable job of going from wide to spot.

Here's the back of the package.

On second glance, there appears to be some notches cut into the pill... IE-Removable light engine. If you go through the trouble to upgrade the emitter, you might want to consider a good multi-mode driver as well. IMHO the emitter and a good DC-DC circuit go hand in hand, one without the other is :candle: :sigh:

IIRC that light is usually in the ~$50 range. I think that puts it out of the price range CPF'ers are willing to pay for a Luxeon-based light.

**edit** it uses NiMH:thumbsup: Sorry for the error.

Actually this guy has NiMH cells in it IIRC.

Yes it does have NiMH cells and I wouldn't have paid $50 for it. I got it for $25 plus tax. The plug-in to charge rather than having to remove the cells clinched it for me.

kramer5150 said:

On second glance, there appears to be some notches cut into the pill... IE-Removable light engine. If you go through the trouble to upgrade the emitter, you might want to consider a good multi-mode driver as well

Click to expand...

the notches you see might be a threaded retaining ring that holds down the metal plate thats in tern mounted to the Star[?]

this type of fastening is observed in the dorcy 3D 1 watt also...it may be pried out to expose a circuit board underneath or simply a resistor...but either way gives you a cavity for goodies...like a dedicated driver

Don't remember the original price, but got mine at Walmart for $20 on closeout. Would have passed at the $50 mentioned above.

That Seoul mod does sound good for a few bucks. I've used mine again tonight and it's not that bright. Anyone got a link to a full tutorial? I'm not so keen to take it apart and have $30 worth of junk.

I used to put radios and amps together when I was a kid, so the soldering is not a problem, but I would like to know ALL the ins and outs.

The only thing you'll have to solder in is the new LED, which is just two points.

It should be a simple LED swap.

Something like this:

1. Desolder the Luxeon, marking the + and - contacts.
2. Remove the Luxeon.
3. Clean the base where the LED was.
4. Apply some Thermal epoxy. Make sure there is enough thermal epoxy between the LED and the heatsink so the LED won't short to the heatsink though. It doesn't have to be thick(which would be a bad idea), just thick enough to isolate the LED. A Shim for the LED might be needed depending on the reflector(0.030 inch thick, use a good thermally conductive material like copper).
5. Solder the LED to the contact pads(making sure that the + goes to + and - goes to - of course) and you should be good to go.

Can someone confirm if this is right or not.

^^^^

Sounds straight forward enough. The thermal epoxy*-if it's used on the original, how do you remove it when de-soldering the old emitter?

*Where do you buy that-Radio Shack?

Celeritas said:

^^^^

Sounds straight forward enough. The thermal epoxy*-if it's used on the original, how do you remove it when de-soldering the old emitter?

*Where do you buy that-Radio Shack?

Click to expand...

heat the area then try chipping the emitter/star off using a screwdriver of sorts.

I don't know of any Thermal epoxy available in ratshack, I buy mine here
https://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?products_id=432

^^^^

Does that imply that the old emitter is inevitively trashed?

Depends on what its state is after removal.

You can try connecting it to a 3v source, like 1 CR123 or 2 AA batteries(with the right polarity) and if it lights up, then the LED is fine. If not, then it is dead.