This nut has been cracked. (or how to gut a Nitrolon tailcap)

After my experiences with a Nitrolon tailcap mod over here, Surefire G3, Cree drop-in and 2 stage switch, I'd all but given up being able to use alternative switches in my Nitrolon lights. When AW came out with the Softstart / 3 level Incan Driver Switch For SF P/C/M series Tail Cap I figured I'd try it again.

I had 2 versions of the G2Z tailcap. One with the hex head screw (top pic) and one with the rivet (bottom pic).




I was able to get the black threaded retainer out of both lights without boiling or strap wrenches and the part is not damaged in any way so I can return the light to stock. I took advantage of Nitrolon's flexibility and slightly separated the tailcap body from the retainer threads using the tool in the following picture.



I put the tailcap in the jaws and compressed until there was slight deformation of the tailcap walls. Then I'd release it, rotate 90 degrees, and then do it again. After a few times I could see a slight gap between the tailcap threads and the retainer's threads. I backed off the tension a bit then stuck in needle nose pliers into the holes on the retainer and loosened it a little. When I was sure it was broken free I released the jaws totally and unscrewed the retainer the rest of the way.

I want to get another G3 to try this again to make sure it is always repeatable but for now 2 out of 2 is fine with me. I've already put in an AW switch in one and the other may get a McE2S.

Victory is extra sweet on this because as I type this I'm boiling a SW02 for another project and it's on it's second boiling and has already chewed up one of my strap wrenches.

Good luck on this one.
-LT

Dont forget to put lots of silicone grease on
the threads to make it easier next time :thumbsup:


Super

Once the retaining broke free it moved easily. SF doesn't appear to use the same type of glue they do on their metal bodied lights. There was no residue that I could see in the threads like the black gunk that I found in my SW02. I'm guessing that it's some type of Super Glue but whatever it is I'm glad it broke loose this time, the previous G3 project was a nightmare.

-LT

Will the McE2S screw right into an empty Nitrolon cap like the AW version B?
Also, I assume the McE2S is resistored, not electronic like the AW, correct?
And lastly, is the McE2S hi/lo/off, lo/hi/off, hi/off/lo/off, or lo/off/high/off?

Thanks in advance, Tony

The McE2S isn't threaded but it doesn't take much modding to get it to work. Here's a great post with pictures that shows how it's done. McE2S for C/M bodies - DIY guide included It is a resistored switch which in this case also means there is no electrical leakage. IIRC AW's switches leak a very small amount of electricity so for long term storage it's best to break the contact between the switch and the body of the light so your batteries don't drain.

For your last question the McE2S is a push through switch not a clickie, it never "latches" on from pushing the button. Partially push and it's momentary low, push all the way down and it's momentary high. To get constant on for either low or high you have to twist the tailcap; paritally gives you low and snugged gives you high.

For a lot of my applications the McE2S is the perfect switch since I use momentary a lot more than constant light.

Hope this helps,
-LT

LT, thanks for all your help. Unfortunately I won't be able to use the McE2S in my G3, as I destroyed the retaining ring to remove it; I would really prefer a forward clicky anyways.

I also tried the switch out of my Fenix TK10; WAY too long, left a huge gap. :thumbsdow I think for now I'll order the DX reverse clicky mentioned in another thread; it'll work well with the multi-mode LED modules I have. But I really like using my single mode R2 module in my G3, so my search for the perfect switch continues!

If you look at my G3 link above you'll see I destroyed mine too. A washer of the proper diameter worked out well however. I too am running a smooth reflectored R2 in my G3 but have a SF diffuser, and the McE2S on 2xLi-ions.

Good luck with your forward clickie hunt.
-LT