led more powerfull than ssc p7??

moviles

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im luking for most powerfull 3.7v or 12v powered led of the world (i prefer 3.7v)
i have ssc p7 flashlights but i want more power in my hand
jr6u11.jpg


i find this 12 v 1400lum 20w led , 20mm like p7 stars
10-Watt-Warm-Weiss-HPR20D-2.jpg

http://www.leds-and-more.de/catalog...d=837&osCsid=a79bed2c397ec1edb39c039d4c8ed91d

but i cant find 3.7v 20-30w or 12v 30-100w leds(i know current draw will be hight)

all 50-500w leds are powered with 35v:(
http://www.eleclight.cn/power_led_50w_500w.htm
 
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Gunner12

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What will you use the LED for?

Also remember that the LED will have a very floody beam and require a lot of heatsinking and a capable powersource.
 

moviles

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What will you use the LED for?

Also remember that the LED will have a very floody beam and require a lot of heatsinking and a capable powersource.
i will use the led for flashlight, the p7 have a floody beam too
 

Marduke

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Depending on what light you already have, there may be others out there with the same LED which are already perhaps 2x as bright.

The one you pictured is small, which makes me think it's not driven to max spec.

Also, you won't be able to get much brighter in a small flashlight package. You can dissipate only so much heat.
 

Gunner12

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How long will you have the light on? A few seconds should be fine but a few minutes could cause the light to heat up a lot and maybe damage the LED.

Also are you thinking about using the 12v tiny batteries? Those will sag a lot or maybe not even work at the high currents these LEDs need.

Just buy a few Cree MC-Es or Seoul P7s, make sure they have similar Vfs, and wire them in parallel on a fitting chunk of metal (fitting meaning will fit in the light). No reflector because you'll get a really floody light either way. Make sure the battery can handle the current though or you could have a dead battery and maybe venting.
 

moviles

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How long will you have the light on? A few seconds should be fine but a few minutes could cause the light to heat up a lot and maybe damage the LED.

Also are you thinking about using the 12v tiny batteries? Those will sag a lot or maybe not even work at the high currents these LEDs need.

Just buy a few Cree MC-Es or Seoul P7s, make sure they have similar Vfs, and wire them in parallel on a fitting chunk of metal (fitting meaning will fit in the light). No reflector because you'll get a really floody light either way. Make sure the battery can handle the current though or you could have a dead battery and maybe venting.
15-20min runtime like my ultrafire c3 p7 its ok , i prefer 3.7v led (12v its the last chance) i want use 18650 batteries
make one multi p7 flashlight its the last chance if i dont find other led arround 20-30w powered with 3.7v or 20-50w led powered with 12v
Ellie2005.jpg
 

Marduke

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15-20min runtime like my ultrafire c3 p7 its ok , i prefer 3.7v led (12v its the last chance) i want use 18650 batteries
make one multi p7 flashlight its the last chance if i dont find other led arround 20-30w powered with 3.7v or 20-50w led powered with 12v


So you modded your UF C3 with a P7? No wonder you're disappointed with the output.

Get a REAL MC-E or P7 light and it should be many times brighter.
 

moviles

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So you modded your UF C3 with a P7? No wonder you're disappointed with the output.

Get a REAL MC-E or P7 light and it should be many times brighter.
lol,the output of my great ultrafire c3 p7 its very very powerfull more than many other p7 flashlights
9ifv2s.jpg

4.2v x3.47 amp = 14 w :devil:
now i want more power but powered with 18650 batteries
 

Marduke

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lol,the output of my great ultrafire c3 p7 its very very powerfull more than many other p7 flashlights

4.2v x3.47 amp = 14 w :devil:
now i want more power but powered with 18650 batteries

Pretty sure something is a little off there. That is WAY over amp spec and rather impossible for direct drive, and there is no way a 14500 cell can hold that voltage under any sort of load.

3.47v perhaps??
 

yellow

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the meter is set on Amperes, so it should be draw
(even when I also wonder how a 14500 sould give this current)


but one idea: have it run - just as shown in pic with You holding the little light in Your hand + checking current - for 10 mins. Use external batt when the cell does not stant the discharge.

then, when Your hand has wide are blisters from the red hot light at 10 mins, get some ice and bandage for Your hand, and think of the weight a multi-P7 light must have to run the led safely and cool for 30 mins

;)


PS: You need a much deeper reflector. It just focuses the light it can catch and that short, small one is crap.
 
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moviles

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the meter is set on Amperes, so it should be draw
(even when I also wonder how a 14500 sould give this current)


but one idea: have it run - just as shown in pic with You holding the little light in Your hand + checking current - for 10 mins. Use external batt when the cell does not stant the discharge.

then, when Your hand has wide are blisters from the red hot light at 10 mins, get some ice and bandage for Your hand, and think of the weight a multi-P7 light must have to run the led safely and cool for 30 mins

;)


PS: You need a much deeper reflector. It just focuses the light it can catch and that short, small one is crap.
hahahah:D yes its very hot flashlight, continium runtime dont must be more than 8 min and total runtime its arround 15-18 min, its a floody beam flashlight

but stop talk about my great ultafire c3 p7 and lets find the most powerfull led powered with 3.7v
 

moviles

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And are you measuring the current draw, or the drive current? It appears you are measuring current draw.

BIG difference.

EXACTLY what cell setup are you using?
its direct drived i measuring current draw to the led, the battery of my ultrafire c3 p7 are reversed because the back of the P7 is internal connected to the + side.
the battey its 14500 protected
walu2w.jpg

30121xv.jpg

stop talk about my great ultafire c3 p7 and lets find the most powerfull led powered with 3.7v
 

Benson

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I'm pretty sure that's not a protected cell; you're running it at at least 4C, so it should cut out. If it is a protected cell, the protection circuit has failed, and it's just as dangerous as an unprotected cell. There's a serious risk of explosion or fire while you're holding that little firecracker.

DX, at least, sells some Trustfire cells that are labeled as protected, but actually aren't; I think you may have some of those. DX does warn that they're unprotected, but it could be easily overlooked, and less scrupulous vendors could not notify you at all.

EDIT: I'm not in any way denigrating the awesomeness of the concept of that light, but LiCo is not a suitable chemistry to use. You could do a similar upgrade in a CR123, 18500, or 18650 host, where you could use AW's IMR cells, with a LiMn chemistry that's safe for these discharge rates, but AFAIK there are no 3.7V 14500 cells made with safe high-drain chemistries.
 
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marschw

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Are you planning on using this higher-power-than-p7 LED in the C3 host? If so, what was your plan for supplying it with 12v?
 

yellow

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at the moment there is no led that is more powerful than a P7 / MC-E, not even the 6-die Osram.
(lets better say: "as is known" not the Osram)

ways to get more light were:
* using more of these quad-led, or
* using a deeper reflector --> f.e. that joke used as a reflector might, at best, catch 5 % (?) of the light emittet.

If one grabs a deeper one - say with a modded Maglite - that catches 30 % (just a guess!!!) of the light and focuses this, one light (with the current draw of just ONE quad-led) will be equally bright than a bunch of the "original" lights
(not at short area spill, but in the focused beam)
 
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