voltage range for early arc LS?

bcwang

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Just wondering if anyone knows the acceptable voltage range for one of the early arc LS lights. I'm interested in knowing if I can run ni-zn x 2 = 3.2-3.5v, or li-ion 3.7-4.2v

I am not sure of the exact version, but:

- it says "first run" on the bezel
- it came with twisty 1AA, 2AA, and 1x123 tailcaps
- the front of the bezel is rounded instead of squared
- I think it has nx-05 optics, though I'm not exactly sure

It's particularly interesting for me now because this lights brightness seems directly tied to voltage. Since newer and brighter lights have come out this has become quite unused, but with new batteries and higher voltages it could likely bring new life to this light.
 

Big_Ed

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Personally, I think a light like a first run Arc LS shouldn't be messed with. If I remember correctly, it was the first flashlight to use a Luxeon 1 watt LED. (Please correct me if I'm wrong). It's kind of a piece of history. I'd hate to see it ruined.
 

Flying Turtle

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I can't recall anyone using rechargeables or higher voltage batteries. Not sure, however. Even with a regular CR123 my LS gets warm fairly quickly. I don't think higher voltages would be smart. I agree with Big Ed. Don't mess with history.

Geoff
 

Crenshaw

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i dont let li-ons near my LS either.

all light's brightness would be somewhat tied to the voltage, But kill the driver, and well, the darkness is ALSO directly tied/caused to the voltage.

however the best person to ask would be Peter Gransee. go pm him i guess.

if you want a higher brightness arc, go buy an empty arc body and tail pak from cy in the marketplace, and either have someone mod it for you, or do it yourself. it may take a bit of imagination to fit a circuit board in there, but hey, thats where it gets fun!

Crenshaw
 
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Bullzeyebill

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The first runs had a voltage boost circuit, and were able to do quite well with one AA cells, two AA's, and one CR123. Some of our members have, or are using, RCR123's, with their first runs. The early Arc did not use low vf LEDs, though they were run at fairly low current to the LED, 500mA's or so, if I recall. Do not use two CR123's. Also, not a lot of heatsinking there.

Bill
 

bcwang

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Personally, I think a light like a first run Arc LS shouldn't be messed with. If I remember correctly, it was the first flashlight to use a Luxeon 1 watt LED. (Please correct me if I'm wrong). It's kind of a piece of history. I'd hate to see it ruined.

That's why I intend on finding out the safe voltage range for the light rather than experiment and possibly blow up the LS.
 

Ty_Bower

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It's a boost circuit. Anything less than the Vf of the LED should be fine. First runs will work rather well on as little as a single NiMH AA (1.2 volts). Without knowing the exact forward voltage of the Luxeon, I would not go over 3.5 volts (i.e., no 3.6~4.2 volt lithium ion cells).
 

bcwang

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It's a boost circuit. Anything less than the Vf of the LED should be fine. First runs will work rather well on as little as a single NiMH AA (1.2 volts). Without knowing the exact forward voltage of the Luxeon, I would not go over 3.5 volts (i.e., no 3.6~4.2 volt lithium ion cells).

Is 3.5v the minimum forward voltage seen on a luxeon at the time?

I wonder if there is some sort of test you could do to figure out the safe voltage. Like slowly increase the voltage until the current draw suddenly spikes up and then back down.
 

karlthev

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I wish I had some old threads I could access quickly but I don't. Anything other than primaries and :poof:the magic smoke will breeze away! Ask me how I know that!:shakehead



Karl
 

moses

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I had a few dozen of these, and a few hundred body parts on these. Still run a couple of them including a custom McGizmo reflector that he sold along with a Triton dot on it. Anyways, do not use Li-Ion - you could blow the LED if the Vf is low. not sure about the circuit. Basically it was designd for 3 volts and under. It's indeed a classic. Not sure if collectible but a classic for sure....:)

Mo
 

bcwang

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Nope, mine came before these.

I tried to use my cr123 tail last night and on the one battery it actually turned on, it was much dimmer than my 2xAA with nimh batteries. The battery measured 3.11v open voltage. I wonder if there is some contact resistance or something going on making it dimmer. None of my other 123 batteries could turn on the light, I think it has trouble with the nipple touching the positive contact.

Does anyone remember what bin luxeon was used in the LS first run?

By the way, mine is a "factory second" so it's probably not destined to be a collectible or a classic.
 

Bullzeyebill

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First Run. It was a low dome, Lux I. Bin was probably a M or N for flux, and would have been possibly a K bin for vf. Not sure about tint. The later Arc LSH, and LSL ran at 330mA's to LED and used a M-Q for flux, depending on standard or premium model.

Bill
 

bcwang

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Could a moderator move this thread to the ARC forum? It seems like Peter Gransee can't be PM'd (don't see the normal link to do so) and it he would more likely see this thread if it were there.
 

Bullzeyebill

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Could a moderator move this thread to the ARC forum? It seems like Peter Gransee can't be PM'd (don't see the normal link to do so) and it he would more likely see this thread if it were there.

Click the little triangle next to the post number in you post and you can leave a message for a moderator.

Bill
 

louie

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Any of those early Arc seconds we sold "guaranteed to light up", not necessarily to run normally. IIRC, there were issues with locktite getting onto board contacts and other driver design issues. The only two First Runs I worked on needed extensive rework to make reliable, and when the Luxeon was replaced with newer 1 watt high domes, made about 30 lumens IIRC. However, one light had a defective driver and only delivered half current. Some other Arc LSH seconds I bought after the redesign maybe had some anodizing flaws, but work great after installing an SSC P4 and Khatod reflector.
 
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