Build Log: '43' 7xXP-G

sosemot728

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I think it looks like a pot plant... :sigh:

My attempt at a 40mm PCB.

7xCREE XP-G
12x M2-0.4x8mm stainless machine screws. (I think I should change my name to "M2", I use these so often)
Khatod optic
Maxflex Driver
External Switch
UCL Glass
IP68 Sealed with quad o-ring design.
35 inch^2 of finned surface area
68x59x41mm
180 Grams








What do you think?
 
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Tidra

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No hard feelings it is just IMHO,...
If you plan to use it on the bar, than this weight in o.k., but from my point of view I would like to run that king of light mounted on helmet and for that I would like to have lighter light.

Again IMHO,…
heat/battery consumption vs Lum,… would your eye see so much difference if you drive XP-G @ 1A or 1.4A,… is questionable… is it really worth it

Another suggestion,…
if you can provide as many fins you can (you will need them), made them thinner 1.5 – 2mm, so you cud squeeze more of them on the housing that way you will provide more heat disposable surface.

LP
Iztok
 
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sosemot728

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No hard feelings it is just IMHO,...
If you plan to use it on the bar, than this weight in o.k., but from my point of view I would like to run that king of light mounted on helmet and for that I would like to have lighter light.

Again IMHO,…
heat/battery consumption vs Lum,… would your eye see so much difference if you drive XP-G @ 1A or 1.4A,… is questionable… is it really worth it

Another suggestion,…
if you can provide as many fins you can (you will need them), made them thinner 1.5 – 2mm, so you cud squeeze more of them on the housing that way you will provide more heat disposable surface.

LP
Iztok

Fins are 2mm with 2mm gaps, because of their height I don't want to make them thinner.
 

stinky

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Maybe you could take some weight out of the back of it and add surface area by doing something like this?

%21BkiWHc%21%21mk%7E$%28KGrHqEOKjsEsmRTM3lGBL%2875U422w%7E%7E_12.JPG




No idea how hard that would be.
 

sosemot728

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Maybe you could take some weight out of the back of it and add surface area by doing something like this?

%21BkiWHc%21%21mk%7E$%28KGrHqEOKjsEsmRTM3lGBL%2875U422w%7E%7E_12.JPG




No idea how hard that would be.

I sort of tried something like that. I didn't like it and it only saved 4~8grams, the back plate underside has to be flat for the oring.






Otherwise I have reduced the weight of the back plate by doing this.

 

sosemot728

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Update: Reduced size and weight, now at 170g and 40x68x59mm.

This thing is crazy skinny, but it has over 36inch^2 of finned surface area (excluding front and rear faces)

Finally have got the fins how I want them, and am looking at the brad Harrison connectors instead of a cable gland
 

sosemot728

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After going bald from the crazies. I managed to get the weight down to 160Grams! (this was my final goal for this surface area)

Removed some of the front and rear mass







Now is this light enough!?
 

sosemot728

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Saw some other light with scollop's, thought I'd try it out. I cant decide if I like it or not. Any suggestions?




 

paulr

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Mar 29, 2003
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This is a different project than the twin light? Are these multi-Cree clusters worth the bother compared with an SST90 or the 4-die version (forgot number) these days?
 

sosemot728

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One word, efficiency...

It is currently the most efficient led light available, although not at full power... but on mid to low settings.
 

Juggernaut

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Might just be my opinion, but the "heat sink properties" are a bit overkill for bike use. I can run my Electrolumens EDC-P7 "less then 9 oz." for no more then 15 minuets before it becomes extremely uncomfortable in the hand "165+ degrees" but on a mountain bike going 10-14 mph, it not only doesn't get hot, it doesn't even get warm:twothumbs! It stays perfectly cool, even cold to the touch! The R5s etc are so efficient I can't see them getting anywhere near as hot with nearly twice the mass of material, but that is just from my experience:shrug:.
 

sosemot728

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Might just be my opinion, but the "heat sink properties" are a bit overkill for bike use. I can run my Electrolumens EDC-P7 "less then 9 oz." for no more then 15 minuets before it becomes extremely uncomfortable in the hand "165+ degrees" but on a mountain bike going 10-14 mph, it not only doesn't get hot, it doesn't even get warm:twothumbs! It stays perfectly cool, even cold to the touch! The R5s etc are so efficient I can't see them getting anywhere near as hot with nearly twice the mass of material, but that is just from my experience:shrug:.

I had a look at your EDC-P7 it has minimal surface area for its weight. There is a difference between the two. I have designed this to have enough surface area for natural convection cooling (without movement)
 

sosemot728

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I like this one, I might go for one. Do you have a rough price?


This is only a guess, but around $100AUD... Dont hold me to it tho. There is significantly more machining involved compared to the last prototype

BTW do you like it with or without the side cut things....?
 

Mettee

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This is only a guess, but around $100AUD... Dont hold me to it tho. There is significantly more machining involved compared to the last prototype

BTW do you like it with or without the side cut things....?

Personally I would not add the additional side cuts, I like the way it looked round, plus it would have more fin area.

Like this
mainan.th.jpg
 
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