"Die Light"

I am looking for a solution to a problem I am having at work. I work at a Stamping Plant, We Build our own tooling to make piece parts that other companies use in there products. When the toolmakers are building the tooling they need to check the clearance between the punches and the Die openings. Currently they are using 6watt 120Volt incandescent bulb screwed into a socket attached to a cord. Think the little plug in "candles" that you might see in windows around Christmas time.

The blubs are not very durable, there is a saftey hazard with the 120V. So I am on the hunt to find a better solution.

The light must have good light output, at times they will be trying to see 0.001" or less clearance. does not need to be battery powered but does need to be low voltage.

Does anyone know of a off the shelf solution? If I have to build something I guess I will go that route.

Thank you in advance.

Jason

Sounds like a area light to me. Could it be a flashlight too? If so I would recommend something that'll fit easily in a pocket and is readily accessible. Like a 4sevens Preon 2.

This is what they are currently using. I will look into the 4 sevens light.
Thank you for the suggestion.

Hi Jason,

To help us get a better idea of what you are looking for, could you please fill out our Flashlight Recommendation Checklist:

For all questions please select all that apply.


1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
____I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I'm flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

____I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
____Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

____I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

____I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today's most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
____I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.


15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

Click to expand...

-Robert

Quote:
For all questions please select all that apply.


1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__X__I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____Less than $25.
X Less than $50.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I'm flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

X I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
____Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

_X__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

____I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
_X__I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

__X_I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today's most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
____I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

_X__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
_X__30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__X_Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.

Needs to Be Rugged, used in an Industrial Enviroment


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
_X__I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

_X__A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
_X_ I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.


15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
Idealy able to fit in close quarters, Current solution is a Bare Blub with a max. Diameter of 0.750"


Jason

Atlascycle, please resize your photo in post #3, the maximum size for CPF is 800x800 pixels.

Edit: Thank you. :thumbsup:

Kestrel said:

Atlascycle, please resize your photo in post #3, the maximum size for CPF is 800x800 pixels.

Click to expand...

My apologies, I re-sized it in photobucket. It should be OK now.


Jason

I would just get a 4sevens quark aa or a fenix ld15

Yeah sounds like a neutral/warm quark aa or a preon would fit the bill perfectly. Since they are used to the tint from an incandescent light I probably wouldnt go with cool white.

And the 3 levels on the quark aa are insanely easy, all the way to high can be almost as fast as a single click with quick hands.

A bare light bulb radiates light in all directions, so the user won't need to turn the bulb in a specific direction to shine through the gap.

Is an omnidirectional light important from the LED ?

I think that from a different is bad mentataly that if it is not a omnidirectional type of light they are not going to want to give it a chance. I may order one of the suggested lights and have the toolroom supervisor try it out and get his opinion first.

Thanks again for the Suggestions.

Jason

I use a Romisen RC - C6 II Q5 to inspect car paintwork for very small flaws. Adjusted to full flood it doesn't have a hot spot so is better as a work light. I can recommend Shingingbeam as a great supplier on CPF. I find it better than the neutral white RC - 29 II, it seems to show up flaws better for my eyes.

Please look at the Zebralight headlamps. These can light up a large area even when you are close and the included headlamp band might be very useful for for your work.

Look at the H31W and the H501W lights. While these are more expensive than your original request they are bright and use primary as well as rechargable batteries. The "W" indicates a neutral white color which is much closer to daylight and will render colors better than the non "W" lights.

The H31W is more powerful, uses CR123 batteries and has a narrower beam.

The H501W use an AA battery and has a very floody beam. While somewhat less bright this might be the best choice for your task. It comes with a pocket clip and a headband.

Some vendors offer a CPF discount that might lower the prices as shown on the ZL site.

For such small distances, a flood light might replicate the 120v bulb better. Something like the Zebralight headlamps could work, but those shine at right angles and most are above your price range. Here's a neutral white one that runs on an AA, it's currently $47 due to a sale.

I don't think that i am conveying the way that is light will be used. Imagine a 1" thick block Bolted on top of a 5/8" thick subplate which in turn is bolted to the lower die shoe which will range from 1.5" to 3" Thick. There will be a precision cut die opening in this series of blocks.inserted into this opening will be a punch that will be make with a precision clearance in the range of 0.0005" per side on up depending on the thickness of the material that is being used. If this is a round opening then for example that opening will be 1.004" and the punch will be 1.000".
The punch will be fastened to the upper die shoe and the upper and lower halves will be brought together on the alignment pins and the punch will enter the die opening. The light (see eariler post for what is being used right now)is brought in between the punch mounting block and the Die block (this gap is usually 1" or less but sometimes larger) and moved around the outside of the punch to see if the gap is even all of the way around the punch.

The light output really needs to be omnidirectional, or radiate from the side of the light, not the end.

Google Images of stamping Dies

As I am typing this out I am realizing that what i am looking for is something along the lines of the stylus Reach. The tool room supervisor told me that our MRO Supplier got them a light like that (now that i am thinking about it) but he had told me that it was not bright enough. I will check with him in the morning to see exactly what light that the have tried.

Thank you for all of your suggestions.

I will let you know what i end up finding out.

Jason


http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...&start=84&hl=en&sa=N&gbv=2&ndsp=21&tbs=isch:1

Why couldn't you just use a small lanten or a diffuser tip?

Or for that matter, if you guys are discussing using the stylus reach, why not just use a angle light. Lots of Zebralights are small angle lights.

Titan Tool has a light that meets your needs but is about $330 to $400.

Maybe you should consider a 12 volt wall wart, a piece of soft copper tubing and an automobile parking light bulb. Much less than $50 and easy to build.

Some heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, shop made wood or aluminum handle and some tennis racket handle tape would make this ultra deluxe and still not exceed $50.

Hevy Lite said:

Titan Tool has a light that meets your needs but is about $330 to $400.

Maybe you should consider a 12 volt wall wart, a piece of soft copper tubing and an automobile parking light bulb. Much less than $50 and easy to build.

Some heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, shop made wood or aluminum handle and some tennis racket handle tape would make this ultra deluxe and still not exceed $50.

Click to expand...

I was trying to see if there was a commercial option for this before I went the home made route, But I was pretty sure that I would end up "Creating" the solution instead of buying it.

Do you have a Link to the Titan Tool Light you are referring to?

Is this it? Titan Tool Intra Light

Jason

Frankly I was looking at the Micro Probe Halogen Inspection Light At: http://www.titantoolsupply.com/productDetail.asp?id=26968&md=d&mode=showDetail

The intra lights seem to meet your needs and are far less expensive than the Halogen!

In fact they look like what I described as a home built item.

These are still a little pricey but do seem to meet your needs. At 350 lumens these certainly seem bright enough.

Most of the time I find when you prototype build something it gets mostly right about the third time and you have spent way more (If you count labor) than just buying the thing in the first place.


Good luck with the search.

A while ago they were using a wall wart with a bulb from a Mini M@G light. I asked the Tool room manager about that today and he said that that combo was not bright enough for them. He liked the looks of the Titan unit, will probably get one to try out next week.

Thanks for your help.


Jason