Do AW 14500's fit without issue in the Thrunite 1A?

Doug

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Do AW 14500's fit without issue in the Thrunite 1A? Or is the anode too short?
 

flashflood

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Do AW 14500's fit without issue in the Thrunite 1A? Or is the anode too short?

In the Neutron 1A, AW 14500 (black) fits; AW IMR 14500 (red) is too short, but a 1/4" x 1/16" gold-plated N52-grade Neodymium-Iron-Boron magnet spacer works great. You can get them from K&J Magnetics. This particular magnet is part number D41G-N52. 30 cents each.

In the Neutron 1C, both AW 16340 (black) and AW IMR 16340 (red) fit.
 
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Doug

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Thank you! I have the black ones..... I should be good to go then... But maybe I will get spacers for my 18650s...
In the Neutron 1A, AW 14500 (black) fits; AW IMR 14500 (red) is too short, but a 1/4" x 1/16" gold-plated N52-grade Neodymium-Iron-Boron magnet spacer works great. You can get them from K&J Magnetics. This particular magnet is part number D41G-N52. 30 cents each.

In the Neutron 1C, both AW 16340 (black) and AW IMR 16340 (red) fit.
 

flashflood

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The IMR is too short? Wouldn't it be the same length as a normal nimh? Or is the top too flat?

For whatever reason, it's shorter. IMR = 48mm, Eneloop = 50mm, AW black = 51mm:

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And is it just me, or does this look like a police lineup?
 

Brasso

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Same here. The AW14500's and Eneloops work fine. The IMR's are too short. btw, I just got a Malkoff M91, and the 1A is just as bright as the m91 on a 14500 if anyone's wondering.
 

GeorgeDunn_UK

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I seem to be having a problem with the black AW 14500 in my recently purchased Neutron A1 - this could be a problem with the torch itself.

When I insert a fully charged AW 14500 into the body and screw the tail cap back on, then press the switch on....nothing. If I unscrew the tailcap almost all the way to remove, then press the switch to on and re-tighten...the light comes on. And will continue to work there after. This method seems to work most of the time first try, but sometimes I need to try a couple of times to get it working.

I beleive I am getting some kind of short circuit due to poor battery fit, because if I loosen the bezel it activates the strobe or goes off, when it should reduce the power/output. I also notice a mild burning/sulphurous smell in the battery tube when this happens.

I don't have any problems with a standard AA battery. Anyone else had a similar problem or can impart some advice?

And by the way the A1 with the 3.7v 14500 is amazingly bright for such a small light :)
 

Ken_B

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I suspect your light is fine, but the battery is too long and is interfering with the (presumably tailcap) switch. Try a different brand. See post #6.

Ken
 

tallyram

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My 1A did the same thing. I kept playing with it and all of a sudden it just started working, all the time. Now my other AW 14500 only works if i turn the battery to fit in a certain orientation. That battery is slightly deformed at the top. Both batteries were purchased brand new for this light.
 

flashflood

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I seem to be having a problem with the black AW 14500 in my recently purchased Neutron A1 - this could be a problem with the torch itself.

When I insert a fully charged AW 14500 into the body and screw the tail cap back on, then press the switch on....nothing. If I unscrew the tailcap almost all the way to remove, then press the switch to on and re-tighten...the light comes on. And will continue to work there after. This method seems to work most of the time first try, but sometimes I need to try a couple of times to get it working.

I beleive I am getting some kind of short circuit due to poor battery fit, because if I loosen the bezel it activates the strobe or goes off, when it should reduce the power/output. I also notice a mild burning/sulphurous smell in the battery tube when this happens.

I don't have any problems with a standard AA battery. Anyone else had a similar problem or can impart some advice?

And by the way the A1 with the 3.7v 14500 is amazingly bright for such a small light :)

Check the tail switch retaining ring. If it gets loose, the connection will be twitchy. Note that this ring is reverse-threaded, so counter-clockwise to tighten.

This happened with my 1C. Friction between the body and the retaining ring may cause it to loosen when you screw the tail cap off and on. At first I thought there was something flaky with the switch, but after checking this and tightening the ring, it's rock solid.
 

manitoe

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I have 2 AW 14500's, and one doesn't work at all in the Neutron 1A, while the other works intermittently. Most of the time it works OK with the head tightened, but it flickers and turns off all the time with the head in the loosened position.

In itself it's a nice light with a pretty nice beam and good output, but the extremely poor 14500 support and the sloppy threads where a big turnoff for me. It's also a tad large for an AA light.
 

flashflood

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I have 2 AW 14500's, and one doesn't work at all in the Neutron 1A, while the other works intermittently. Most of the time it works OK with the head tightened, but it flickers and turns off all the time with the head in the loosened position.

In itself it's a nice light with a pretty nice beam and good output, but the extremely poor 14500 support and the sloppy threads where a big turnoff for me. It's also a tad large for an AA light.

Did you try tightening the retaining ring as described above? I have four Neutrons (1A and 1C, original and neutral tint), and they are all solidly built and run well on 14500/16340. The square threads are exceptionally clean and well machined. If that doesn't describe your light, it may simply be defective and need replacement.
 

manitoe

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Did you try tightening the retaining ring as described above? I have four Neutrons (1A and 1C, original and neutral tint), and they are all solidly built and run well on 14500/16340. The square threads are exceptionally clean and well machined. If that doesn't describe your light, it may simply be defective and need replacement.

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried tightening it but found that it was already pretty tight, and it still does not work with the second AW14500. It also still skips modes and turns off randomly at the slightest bump while the head is loosened when using the other 14500. It works fine on an AA though. I agree that the threads are clean and look well machined, but there's way too much play.
 

GeorgeDunn_UK

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Thanks for the suggestion. I tried tightening it but found that it was already pretty tight, and it still does not work with the second AW14500. It also still skips modes and turns off randomly at the slightest bump while the head is loosened when using the other 14500. It works fine on an AA though. I agree that the threads are clean and look well machined, but there's way too much play.

I have exactly the same issues as manitoe. Immediately after posting my question yesterday; I removed the tail switch and inspected it. Then tightened and adjusted it. I also purchase two AW 14500 at the same time. Curiously one works employing the method previously described, but the other refuses to work.

I did notice that there is a standard washer between the threaded retainer that holds the switch in place and the soft press/tailcap wall. Could this be removed to allow the thread to be tighten slightly more. This would make up for the extra length the AW 14500 has over the AA (i.e. approx 1 mm)?

What do you think flashflood?
 
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SirJohn

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I'm having a slightly different problem, though it doesn't matter what type of battery is in it. If I twist the head to put on low mode, I get head wobble so if I so much as bump the head, the light flashes on turbo mode, which of course ruins any night vision you had and is excpetionally annoying. If turn the head a little more, it won't happen any more when I bump it, but the head is ridiculously wobbly then and it doesn't inspire confidence and you have to think the waterproofing would not work if the head is that lose. Anyone experience these symptoms with theirs? Did I get bad light?
 

recDNA

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I have exactly the same issues as manitoe. Immediately after posting my question yesterday; I removed the tail switch and inspected it. Then tightened and adjusted it. I also purchase two AW 14500 at the same time. Curiously one works employing the method previously described, but the other refuses to work.

I did notice that there is a standard washer between the threaded retainer that holds the switch in place and the soft press/tailcap wall. Could this be removed to allow the thread to be tighten slightly more. This would make up for the extra length the AW 14500 has over the AA (i.e. approx 1 mm)?

What do you think flashflood?

Why don't you try it and let us know how it works?
 

manitoe

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I'm having a slightly different problem, though it doesn't matter what type of battery is in it. If I twist the head to put on low mode, I get head wobble so if I so much as bump the head, the light flashes on turbo mode, which of course ruins any night vision you had and is excpetionally annoying. If turn the head a little more, it won't happen any more when I bump it, but the head is ridiculously wobbly then and it doesn't inspire confidence and you have to think the waterproofing would not work if the head is that lose. Anyone experience these symptoms with theirs? Did I get bad light?

Mine is exactly the same.
 

flashflood

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I have exactly the same issues as manitoe. Immediately after posting my question yesterday; I removed the tail switch and inspected it. Then tightened and adjusted it. I also purchase two AW 14500 at the same time. Curiously one works employing the method previously described, but the other refuses to work.

I did notice that there is a standard washer between the threaded retainer that holds the switch in place and the soft press/tailcap wall. Could this be removed to allow the thread to be tighten slightly more. This would make up for the extra length the AW 14500 has over the AA (i.e. approx 1 mm)?

What do you think flashflood?

It would help to clarify a couple of things:

(1) Batteries. When you say AW 14500, do you mean the IMR (red) or the LiCo (black with silver label)? I find that the black ones work fine, but the red ones are twitchy in exactly the way you describe because they are so short compared to normal AA-type cells (why, AW, why)? The red cells require a magnetic spacer (I use these) for reliable contact.

(2) Thread play. I normally use Neutrons on turbo, in which case the head is fully tightened and there is no play at all. Just now I tried loosening the heads on my 1A and 1C, and compared this to a loosened Quark Turbo X 123^2. There is indeed a bit more play in the Neutrons, but not by much -- in particular, there is not enough play to cause loss of contact under aggressive wiggling. (Aggressive wiggling... sounds funny.) Do your O-rings appear to be in good condition and properly seated?
 
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