Other ways besides soldering?

I am to scared to solder wires to lithium batteries. How else can I do it?
Don't laugh, but arent there a electrically conductive glue made specifically for cases like this?

lightseeker2009 said:

arent there a electrically conductive glue

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Actually, there is. It's called "wire glue". However, I can't find any information on how much current the stuff can handle.

Thanks for the link, will think about getting some.

If there are links to sources to purchase said "wire glue" or if further data available, please provide links here.

I am also searching for a product that I would consider "conductive heavy grease" or soft soap (not liquid). I have built several lights for bicycling and found battery bounce in contacts got carbonized and picked up increased contact resistance. If I had some thick grease that was highly conductive, then I would not get any arcing or carbonizing and the light would remain more constant. Does such an animal exist ? If so where can it be purchased ?

Eismager posted a link. You can also find it at AllElectronics and electronicgoldmine.
You can get copper tape with conductive adhesive too.
Also, metal filled epoxies such as this one.
And of course magnets depending on what you are trying to do. I use a threaded magnetic cup assembly with my hobby charger.
And finally, clamps, or I guess tape (yuck)
I don't suggest self tapping screws however

Oh, and grease.
http://www.google.com/search?q=carbon conductive grease
http://www.google.com/search?q=silver conductive grease

I don't have first hand knowledge with any, but a search comes up with a few results.

Back in the day I used rear window defroster repair to connect bridges on a amd xp chip so I could unlock the mutiplier. It says it is highly conductive. It dries to a hard crumple solid. Sort of like drywall mud. Maybe if you mixed it with some epoxy or jb weld it might work. When liquid its like paint. Heres what it looks like. Dont know if this helps or not.

VegasF6 said:

copper tape with conductive adhesive too.

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Agreed...
Copper or aluminum tape does the job for me when it's a non-mission-critical job...
Good to check out your wiring before committing to the iron...

moderator007 said:

Back in the day I used rear window defroster repair to connect bridges on a amd xp chip so I could unlock the mutiplier. It says it is highly conductive. It dries to a hard crumple solid. Sort of like drywall mud. Maybe if you mixed it with some epoxy or jb weld it might work. When liquid its like paint. Heres what it looks like. Dont know if this helps or not.

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I had forgotten about that. I did a few of them too.

shao.fu.tzer said:

Agreed...
Copper or aluminum tape does the job for me when it's a non-mission-critical job...
Good to check out your wiring before committing to the iron...

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Yep, I have it both conductive (tinned) and non conductive (not) and another cool thing about it is you can solder to it if you want. I have created circuit board traces like this.

Eismagier said:

Actually, there is. It's called "wire glue". However, I can't find any information on how much current the stuff can handle.

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Look for this on Amazon and read the reviews. They seem to be either 5 stars or one star. High resistance and long set time are two of teh problems.

There is an epoxy mentioned on tehr Amazon site but it is pricey.

Hi,
I realize the thread is old, but in case a search leads someone else here, you can also pick up conductive wire glue at the Rad Shack. It's about $5.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12925060

Soldering is best this ocnductive glue will have high resistance. With soldering you gain mechanical strength and (almost)zero contact resistance. With proper tools soldering is 100% safe for you and the battery. When I solder to the battery I am finished in ~2seconds max so it won't hurt the cell. You need good soldering iron with big tip, enought heat capacity and proper flux. With standard rosin it takes sooooo many seconds before it sticks to the cell and even after that the connection is fragile and can be separated with enought force.
With flux I use (standard acidic flux for copper pipes etc, must be washed away to prevent corrosion) it sticks to the cell instantly and is really strong. And it looks beautiful I am running few tests and I want to have minimal contact resistance - It is gold plated banana female plug:
sorry about this large picture
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/140/p6115681.jpg/]

I did not had a single AA battery holder handy and had to solder wires to a 14500 battery. I was concerned about heat and whether the connection would be permanent. What I did was to solder on the wires, taking minimal time. This might result in not a good soldering job, but then after I could see its holding up just fine, I used Wynn's epoxy steel to cover the soldering points, just too make sure the wires won't move even if tucked on. Its still working fine after 6 months. It may sound crude but it works. I forgot to add that I did roughten up the batteries positive and negative end to get better results