Streamlight stinger hp led

Ive had this light for over a year now . I managed to tear up the led. Im new to this, but I figured I would upgrade while I had a chance. I was checking my voltage, and realized that my battery pack sayes 3.6v and it measured 3.9v. Then at the wires that solder to the led it read 7.2v. Can some one please explain this for someone who is just starting to learn this?

Battery pack is a 3 sub C cell NiCd type pack with nominal voltage of 3.6V (1.2 a cell), but when fully charged you get 3.9-4V. It has a single cree XR-E led inside so the voltage on the led should be around 3.5V, depends on current that the led is driven at. If you read 7.2V than there is probably something wrong with the driver.

Does your flashlight still work or not?

No it does not work, but that makes perfect sense

No it doesnt, I messed it up not streamlights fault, but thanks for the info, very helpful. If it has a cree xre in it, wut would be A good upgrade that my driver should work with.

I'd go for an XM-L, since the dome size is pretty close to XR-E, and is the most efficient LED on the market. You will get wider hotspot and some more spill. But before going for a new emitter, make sure the driver still works properly. If it doesn't, check for a drop in that fits the light head. If it's a switching regulator type of driver you might get some strange readings with no load, so wire a 3W resistor instead of LED and do some measurements.

Ive narrowed it down to either Cree MC-E or Seoul P7. I think the Cree would be better, because I want to use the driver that came in the light powering the Cree XR-E. I will be ordering my new led in a couple of days, which one do you guys reccomend me trying?

Have you got any pics of both sides of the pill without the reflector on the front?

I can take some tonight, Its kinda embarrassing how I screwed it up but oh well. I screwed the reflector of my other streamlight onto it to see what the beam would look like, and the hole wasnt big enough and I basically crushed the dome ontop of the led. Then I was like oh well I f*d it up this much, and I tried to get The glue like substance off of the emitter with a small screw driver, and it never worked again. Tomarro I am taking it to my streamlight repair shop, they have awesome warenty. They will probably just replace all the electronics in my light. BUt now I have an erge to make it a little brighter. (like its not bright enough)

it wont let me post an attachment.

Im sorry I missed this post, the xml looks good. I the opening in my optic is 11.5mm, the dome on a p7 is 8.4mm. Would the p7 work?

Your Streamlight repair shop will charge you double the price of a new drop-in, which you can get from some users on this forum. Since you've crushed the dome of the LED and broke the bond wires while scraping off the optical silicon, you shouldn't count on any kind of guarantee.

About the replacement LED part, I still suggest you go for the XM-L, instead of MC-E or even worse P7.

Meanwhile, do some reading on this forum, and there will be a lot of things making sense

I got my light back from SL today, they did fix it nocharge. I will start researching now.

I think im starting to undrstand this. My battery pack says 1.8Ah, and my voltage from the driver to the led is 3.2v. My lights run time is a little over 2 hours. Would I be correct to say that my foward current is 700ma?

At 1800mAh and 2 hours you get 900ma/h so you've got it pretty much right with 700mA drive current, taking in account the drivers efficiency, which would be around 80%.

Hats off to SL for repairing your torch no charge!

I did some more digging, and found the the cree xr-e that came in my light is rated at 107 lumens @ 350ma. So, I guess if my driver is driving @ 700ma, that would go along with SL's 200 lumen claim. You are recommending the xm-l. Its only rated at 280 lumens @ 700ma. I just dont see were 80 lumens is worth the hassel. Now, the mc-e is rated for 430 lumens @ 350ma. Wouldnt that be like 860 lumens @ 700ma, and be better than the xm-l, or am I still missing something?

MC-E M bin is rated 752lm @ 700mA/die, which makes 2800mA @ 4V when wired in parallel or 700mA @ 16V when wired in series. XM-L T6 bin is rated 975lm @ 3000mA @ 3.5V.

I figured I was missing something, there is no way to change my foward current without changing drvers, right? I see how te xml is a better emitter now, the only problem is I cant change the driver as it it made into the switch. Kind of makes it pointless to change emitters. Am I correct that the xml will produce 280 lumens if I swap it into my light?

+40% light output and longer runtime doesn't seem so pointless to me:thinking:

Ya, I guess so.

I found the emittter im goin to buy. It is the xml-u2-1c, but I cant decide to get it on a 16mm round board or 20mm star board.