Jetbeam RRT-0 tailcap removal

alohasurftoad

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
260
I am planning to try and fix the poorly designed clicky. Does anyone know how to remove the tailcap. I've searched and someone said to use blunt long-nose pliers however I am not sure how to apply it. Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks...
 

dhouseng

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
156
Here's a message I got from Jetbeam Service Centre

"Please use the pliers or similar tools to open the concave points which areinside of the tail cap of RRT0(near the spring) . Hope you can try it, if have any question pls let us know, thank you again."
 

jorgen

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
Messages
325
If your light is like mine, the more recently released infinitely variable version, it needs to be opened from the outside (top). Use a split ring a split ring pliers or any pointy needlenose.
 

1anrm

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
201
ok.. mine is the infinite var.. ill try that, thanks

Hi there, were you able to open yours? I have the infinite also however I can't get the tailcap to open. I want to change the clickie to something more responsive. When I use fine or tweezers they just slide and start to hit the rubber boot. Don't want to damage the boot!
 

1anrm

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
201
Hi Erzengel,

Thanks, are you able to use this type of plier on the RRT0? I haven't used this RRT0 in like weeks since I've gotten it. I even bought the titanium clips for EX11. Still have not used it. I'm at to the point of drilling holes in this sucker just to change the forward clickie. I even bought a V10a which I love right now however it doesn't have ultra glow of the RRT0. *sigh*
 

Erzengel

Enlightened
Joined
Jun 29, 2007
Messages
296
Location
Germany
Hi,
I successfully used it to remove the tailcap. I tried a cheap chinese 14mm switch boot instead of the original one. It feels a lot better, but the boot was a hair too short and I couldn't switch off the light every time. Changing the switch will be difficult because it seems to be a proprietary design.
A member on German messerforum.net wrote about inserting a thin piece of leather into the switch boot, which gave him a far better feel for the switch. Maybe it is possible to grind down the switch a little bit and use one of the standard 14mm boots from DX. But I don't know if this will harm the stability of the switch.
 

alohasurftoad

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
260
sorry i have not checked my own thread because i found a solution. my brother's co-worker machined something that worked. it is basically a beveled tube that fits around the boot. i got a piece of thin rubber from a nitrile glove and put that between the tube and used a push/turn to unscrew the retaining ring. i then inserted those sticky rubber/plastic things (you put on drawers to stop the wood from clapping, or under small speakers) in the boot. i may have wasted some of them until i attained the right thickness and the desired feel was satisfied. now... no squishy tailcap however momentary is still delayed. it has something to do with the circuit/driver.
 
Last edited:

1anrm

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 22, 2008
Messages
201
sorry i have not checked my own thread because i found a solution. my brother's co-worker machined something that worked. it is basically a beveled tube that fits around the boot. i got a piece of thin rubber from a nitrile glove and put that between the tube and used a push/turn to unscrew the retaining ring. i thine inserted those sticky rubber/plastic things (you put on drawers to stop the wood from clapping or under small speakers) in the boot until the desired feel was met. had to waste some and play around a bit with it until i was satisfied. no squishy tailcap however momentary is still delayed. something to do with the circuit/driver.

Yes you are correct. Didn't notice that. I had just thought the forward clickie is just hard to activate. I don't have any reason to open this anymore. Thanks!
 
Top