Broken Tailswitch on TK40

Tailswitch has given up the ghost

I've completely disssasembled and cleaned to no avail.

The light itself still works (as determined by completing circuit between battery carrier and threads).

Any other suggestions, or thoughts?

Seems ridiculous to have to toss the entire light because of one part

Well, that's not what I wanted to hear today as I am supposed to get my TK40 today via UPS.
Can't you just contact Fenix or where ever you bought it to have it serviced?
I would say that you could always order a new tailcap which would include the tailswitch.
That's what I would try if my light has a problem. I imagine you have already thought of this, but I thought I would just mention it.
Good luck!
Shad

Excellent light, don't let this problem dissuade you from it.

I suspect it may have received some water damage while sitting in my truck. So if anything make sure you lube the threads well....and make sure the retaining ring is properly tightened if anything.

I'm still waiting to hear from fenix to see if they even sell replacement parts

I know I should know this by now, but what do you use to lube the threads of your lights? I went to order some on line the other day and completely forgot what it's called!
Got my TK40 today and wow, I like this light! Makes all my other lights look pretty dim.
Hope you can get some answers for yours!

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242414-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread

Everything you ever wanted to know about lube!

Hopefully Fenix can just send you a new switch. If not... I've always wondered how difficult it would be to replace any mechanical switch in any brand of light that uses the common retaining ring design?

not sure what you mean, it's presumably just the electronics that are shot.
So given a replacement, it's extremely easily to pop a new one in.

As far as replicating one, well that's not going to happen. At least not for me

HotWire said:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242414-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread

Everything you ever wanted to know about lube!

Click to expand...

Thanks HotWire!

TyJo said:

Hopefully Fenix can just send you a new switch. If not... I've always wondered how difficult it would be to replace any mechanical switch in any brand of light that uses the common retaining ring design?

Click to expand...

A purely MECHANICAL switch is very easy to replace. Many manufacturers source common parts from bulk distributors. (inter-changeable switch guts of L1T-V2 and Quark 1AA shown below). Problem with the TK 40 is its NOT a mechanical switch. Its an electronic switch, which are much less common. I guess you could try and source that E-switch part from a bulk distributor. From the pic, it looks like its pad&tab soldered, with large enough solder pads to hand solder to the PCBA.

I think your best bet is to contact Fenix for an RMA replacement, or return it to the retailer if you are still within their return period.



GOOD LUCK!!... excellent light, its well worth your effort to get it back up and running

EDIT: The photo looked similar to my lights that have mechanical switches (My TK30 has a mechanical switch).Here is a post that might help.

good thread, mine is for sure the switch though as it turns on when I close the circuit with a paperclip

HOW TO FIX YOUR FENIX TK40 broken talswitch

THIS WILL HELP REPAIR THE SWITCH.

I was very upset to find that both my TK40's started acting up with regards tothe tail switches after about two years of heavy duty South African Police Serviceuse.

It would be as if the switch just sometimes did not want to swicth, althoughone can hear the click. This often left me dropping my flashlight on the groundand reverting to my backup OLIGHT when the situation was a bit tight!

I struggled to find a place to replace only that part, and decided to takethe repair into my own hands.

The repair ended up being pretty simple, and although I still have to testit over time, it seemed to be working much better already.

I traced the problem to the actual switch. Disassemble the back end of it using directions on the post. Then further disassembled the actual inside ofthe mechanical switch. (the thing that goes click)
The long black plastic switch button is fixed to the plastic casing on the PC board with a small square metal plate. The plastic button and metal plate can simply be pulled carefully from the switch module with pliers and plugged back afterwards.

After dissasembly,I noticed it was simply a question of the small roundcopper membrane that causes the click having some wear on the contact points(Yes, crappy switch is what it boils down to). So either replace the switch,the whole part or do some DIY.

I just added a small amount of solder to all three contact points, 2 negative points on the side always connected to the membrane and 1 possitive in the middle, connetced when the membrane is bent by pressing the switch. Not toomuch so that the middle contact is too high otherwise the switch will constantly be on. I reassembled the lot. I noticed my click sound was considerably softer after themodification.

I hope Fenix will implement some improvement here on a otherwise fantasticproduct.

Re: HOW TO FIX YOUR FENIX TK40 broken talswitch

hmm excellent to hear...i've had a gnawing suspicion that some mysterious voodoo was going on behind the black nub; but didnt have the guts/or figured didnt have the know-how to deal with whatever i were to discover.


will definitely try disassembling further now!

qbcle said:

THIS WILL HELP REPAIR THE SWITCH.

I was very upset to find that both my TK40's started acting up with regards tothe tail switches after about two years of heavy duty South African Police Serviceuse.

It would be as if the switch just sometimes did not want to swicth, althoughone can hear the click. This often left me dropping my flashlight on the groundand reverting to my backup OLIGHT when the situation was a bit tight!

I struggled to find a place to replace only that part, and decided to takethe repair into my own hands.

The repair ended up being pretty simple, and although I still have to testit over time, it seemed to be working much better already.

I traced the problem to the actual switch. Disassemble the back end of it using directions on the post. Then further disassembled the actual inside ofthe mechanical switch. (the thing that goes click)
The long black plastic switch button is fixed to the plastic casing on the PC board with a small square metal plate. The plastic button and metal plate can simply be pulled carefully from the switch module with pliers and plugged back afterwards.

After dissasembly,I noticed it was simply a question of the small roundcopper membrane that causes the click having some wear on the contact points(Yes, crappy switch is what it boils down to). So either replace the switch,the whole part or do some DIY.

I just added a small amount of solder to all three contact points, 2 negative points on the side always connected to the membrane and 1 possitive in the middle, connetced when the membrane is bent by pressing the switch. Not toomuch so that the middle contact is too high otherwise the switch will constantly be on. I reassembled the lot. I noticed my click sound was considerably softer after themodification.

I hope Fenix will implement some improvement here on a otherwise fantasticproduct.

Click to expand...

IMAGE of FIX for broken tailswitch

Sorry I though the pic was attached to my earlier post on how to solder the tailswitch.
Hopefully here it is now. :thumbsup:

Re: IMAGE of FIX for broken tailswitch

HA! Was going to ask you about that

Super busy and haven't had a chance to give this a try yet.

However, I've discovered that if I mash down the switch and kind of slide it around that it will eventually turn on. AND if I further mash press/slide it around I can eventually change the modes...

So what's that mean? (think I should still give your method a whirl?)

Re: IMAGE of FIX for broken tailswitch

Awesome first two posts btw

hmm, black plastic switch does'nt seem to want come off on mine.

Using pliers, the entire assembly looks ready to pop off at the solder points

The square plate is secured with 4 small plastic pins that go through theholes on each corner of the plate. This is what has to come apart when you pullthe switch off. It should click back when you put the plate back. I used a fairamount of force on mine to manage to get the switch disassembled.

I promptly ripped mine off with a bit less care...the four plastic black dots securing the metal square also popped off in the process doh.
But truthfully, probably inconsequential. Just need to be more careful when disassembling the switch as there are now more parts.

I cleaned the contacts, lightly buffed up/sanded that copper dome...voila works perfect!
THANKS!!!!!

I probably will try the solder idea at some point as it looked like my contacts were just corroded (and the copper membrane almost looked burnt, it was all black. odd)

qbcle said:

The square plate is secured with 4 small plastic pins that go through theholes on each corner of the plate. This is what has to come apart when you pullthe switch off. It should click back when you put the plate back. I used a fairamount of force on mine to manage to get the switch disassembled.

Click to expand...