Review: ThruNite Archer 1A

Submission for the review forum.

ThruNite Archer 1A

Summary:​

• LED: CREE XP-G2 LED with a lifespan of 20+ years of run time.
• Max 178lumen output using 1 x 1.5v AA battery.
• Firefly:0.2lm.249hours; Low:24lm.6hours;Mid80lm.1.5hours;Max Output:178lm.58minutes;Strobe:178lm.2.5hours.
• Working voltage:0.9v to 4.2v.
• Removable steel pocket clip.
• Max run time:249hours(Firefly mode)
• Max beam distance:184meters.
• Peak beam intensity:2993cd.
• Impact resistant:10meters.
• Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard
• 104.14MM LENGTH,22.10mm bezel diameter.
• Weight: 60g without battery.
• Aircraft grade aluminium body structure.
• premium type III hard anodized anti-abrasive finish.
• Ultra-clear tempered glass lens with anti-reflective coating.
• Momentary forward click tactical switch.
• programmable memory function
• Strobe mode for tactial and emergency use.
• Low,medium and high modes to balance power consumption and light output.
• Smooth reflector for max light output.
• Highly focused beam for maximum distance
• Stainless steel front striking bezel.
• Tactical knurling for firm girp.
• Streamlined body design
• Reversed polarity protection.
• Durable T-shaped thread.
• Intelligent highly efficient circuit board design for max performance and long run time.

The ThruNite Archer 1A is the updated version of the ThruNite Neutron 1A. The Neutron uses a XM-L T6 LED and the output was 145 ANSI lumens, the Archer 1A uses a XP-G2 with a output of 178 ANSI lumens.

This come with my Saber 1A and the box was about twice as big, upon opening it I realized what I had read about it being the size of some newer 18650 lights is no exaggeration. Its very solid and feels high quality. One of the things I noticed at first was the pocket clip, its very sturdy and is attached by a separate ring at the tail cap end.

Left: After unscrewing the tail cap and then unscrewing the ring that hold the clip in, the clip can be pulled out with ease. On another note, the clip is firmly pressed against the head and the head is twisted for changing modes. I'm not sure if I will use the clip but I might be worried about wear on the head if I did.
Middle: Here you can see the ring unscrewed and the and the clip half taken out, there was a little wear from where the ring tightens over the clip but you don't see it when it is screwed down.
Right: Here you can see the clip removed and the ring back in place, it leaves a small hole where the clip would usually come out from.

With the tail cap, o-ring, metal ring and clip removed. The tail end has square threads that come lubed with some light oil, then a gap for the o-ring then some more threads for the ring that holds the clip. And below the o-ring and clip.

Squared threads on the head end as well.

Above you can see how thick the side walls are.

This driver looks odd to me but I am sure it has a purpose to be that way. The modes are controlled by twisting the head, but the on and off is controlled by the switch.

​

Stainless steel bezel, this isn't going to bend like aluminium when you drop it face first.

Inside the tail switch, this is the best tail clicky I have ever felt.

Size comparison with my T10, it nearly looks like you could put the T10 inside of it.

Disassembled size comparison with a standard AA battery.




This is 1 solid light, it feels good in the hand and its not something you will have to be careful with. It also has a very deep reflector, not as wide as my RC-G2 but about the same depth. The hotspot from it is very concentrated, I have a feeling that this is going to out throw my RC-G2 III because of its higher lumens and 20% tighter hotspot of the XP-G2 LED.

The twisty head is convenient but takes some getting used to, you just give it a tiny twist then tighten it again and it changes through the modes. When you turn it on via the tail cap it will always come back on in the same mode you left it on.

I'm not sure why the clip is directly over where its says Archer 1A, it doesn't bother me at all but it just seems odd and it can't be moved to another position.

Over all I am very pleased with this light, its now the brightest single AA that I own (I have also read people guessing 300-400 lumens on a 14500 but its unconfirmed)

I'll updated with some beamshots tomorrow night hopefully.



Some outdoor pics below.

Beamshots

Excellent review, ezarc! Really fine pics. Thanks.

Geoff

Nice review! Does the pocket clip rib the head when changing modes and if so does it leave a mark? My Neutron 1A's clip rubs and leaves a mark. Luckily I rarely use turbo so the head doesn't get twisted much. I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these!

Thanks Geoff.

@ tallyram, the clip does touch the head but it doesn't leave a mark. Over time it might with a lot of use,.

I saw a video of a Neutron 1A that had a thin strip of electrical tape on the bend in the clip, but you could also use about a 1cm length of heat shrink tube instead if it worried you.

Mine hasn't seen much use but I think I might take the clip off because I don't use them.

You've got some mad photog skills there my friend. Another nice overview. I don't doubt your 300-400 L max estimate w/14500's since the Neutron 1A is also capable of far more output than it's published specs. Was hoping you would post some outdoor beam shots w/this light since I'm guessing it throws well (considering it head size) with its deep reflector and the new XP-G2 emitter.

Hope someone does a comparo with this light against the EagleTac D25A XP-G2 at some point. Would love to see how they compare in output and beam pattern/quality.

whilst i really like the look/spec of this light its the size of it which puts me off... i know im comparing apples/oranges because my eagletac d25lc2 mini which i currently edc does not run on AA/14500 ( i use a eagletac 18650 3400) and its a twisty ... its basically the same size bar a few mm, so i wont be purchasing it... hold on ... maybe i might... lol

Couple of things if you can verify with this light, as I've read other reports, if you don't mind.
- PWM on some lower modes?
- Some lower modes get bumped up using 14500s?
- This new firefly, 0.2 lumens, actually looks the same as the old 0.09 (about equal to to your T10?)

Thanks.

@ cyclesport, Thanks. I am hoping to have some beamshot comparisons up tonight.

@ reppans, I don't have any 14500s but I will check for PWM and compare the firefly with the T10 for you later.

First post has been updated with beamshots.

And for reppens, there is no visable PWM, no PWM when using my phones camera and no audible PWM when held to my ear with black cloth between my ear and the light. Also the Archer 1A is a little brighter than then T10 on low.

Thanks for the outdoor shots ezarc! The Archer 1A's throw and output is impressive (with just AA alky's...right?) for such a small 1 X AA light/head. Good news about no PWM, and somewhat surprised since on the Neutron 1A it's easy to detect.

cyclesport said:

with just AA alky's...right?

Click to expand...

All of the lights in the beamshots were using NICE lithium batteries (the same ones in the picture).

ezarc said:

All of the lights in the beamshots were using NICE lithium batteries (the same ones in the picture).

Click to expand...

Got it...thanks.

cyclesport said:

Thanks for the outdoor shots ezarc! The Archer 1A's throw and output is impressive (with just AA alky's...right?) for such a small 1 X AA light/head. Good news about no PWM, and somewhat surprised since on the Neutron 1A it's easy to detect.

Click to expand...

Between the time when selfbuilt reviewed the Neutron and when you bought your Neutron, has Thrunite lowered the PWM to where it is visible by just the eye ? selfbuilt measured (link) the PWM of of his 1A Neutron test sample at 4 kHz


"The Neutrons use PWM for Lo-Med-Hi levels, not current-control as listed in the specs. PWM is high enough to be undetectable by eye on the 1C, 1A, and 2AA (i.e. 4kHz). However, PWM is a very noticeable 110 Hz on the 2C."

"Yes, it's very hard to detect 4Hz PWM visually (i.e. 1C, 1AA, or 2AA). You would have to shine the light at a very fast moving fan, and look carefully for the subtle signs of it. In actual practice, I would consider it virtually impossible to notice. The 110Hz 2C is a different matter. I find the 2C Lo mode particularly [nauseating]"

^

My 11/12 version of the Neutron 1A has PWM that is very easy to see (in the lowest/moonlight mode only) by rapidly shaking the light Mojave. I cannot detect PWM in the higher modes. Not the worst I've seen but easliy visable. I have no way of measuring the cycle rate but have many other lights w/much faster PWM that is almost undetectable w/o instrumentation. This PWM speed doesn't bother me as much as others but given a choice I would would prefer cc or at least a faster rate, but since it's only noticable in moonlight mode I don't really care.

My light addressed the initial Neutron product launch complaints of not making contact w/certain 14500 nipples by a redesign of the contact interface, and tightened the loose thread spec in the head/body junction...so perhaps in later production, TN also sub'd a different driver slowing the PWM?

Thank you for your help. I'm interested in purchasing a Neutron due to the combination of (a) your enthusiastic and positive criticism of it in your posts and (b) these indoor beamshots (link below) comparing the spill of the Neutron to that of other models.

I have a Fenix L0D with PWM. If it's pointed at least a few feet away like while I'm going for a walk, I'm seldom aware of the PWM; if it's pointed at something close like while turning the pages of a book, I feel a twinge of instant nausea. But since the PWM in your unit is limited to the one mode/the lowest mode, I'll go ahead and give the Neutron a try.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...beam-DDA10-(XP-G2)-amp-DDC20-(XM-L-U2)-Review

I should also mention that Archer has a forward clicky switch (momentary on) and from what I understand the Neutron has a reverse clicky switch.

MojaveMoon07 said:

Thank you for your help. I'm interested in purchasing a Neutron due to the combination of (a) your enthusiastic and positive criticism of it in your posts and (b) these indoor beamshots (link below) comparing the spill of the Neutron to that of other models.

I have a Fenix L0D with PWM. If it's pointed at least a few feet away like while I'm going for a walk, I'm seldom aware of the PWM; if it's pointed at something close like while turning the pages of a book, I feel a twinge of instant nausea. But since the PWM in your unit is limited to the one mode/the lowest mode, I'll go ahead and give the Neutron a try.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?345994-Jetbeam-DDA10-%28XP-G2%29-amp-DDC20-%28XM-L-U2%29-Review

Click to expand...

I hope I'm not misleading you w/the Neutron. It's certainly a departure from most small 1 X AA/1 X CR123 EDC beam patterns in that it eschews the massive (although dimmer) spill pattern of other EDC lights that I also like more for indoor use, the SC52, D25C, RRT-01 and has a very narrow spill by comparison, roughly half the dia of those lights...but a LOT brighter spill...almost obscuring the hotspot in turbo w/14500's making for one massive amount of light in a relative narrow cone, punching out to 75' or so. It's also a very cool tint probably 6500k or higher. This is a niche light for me but I really like it. That said...if I had to do it all over and the Archer was available then, I would buy the Archer because it seems to have all the attributes I like about the Neutron (super bright and even better throw) plus probably a warmer tint and also has a forward clicky. IMO I think the Archer, all things considered, is a more evolved design of the Neutron 1A.

Any idea if this light will hold up under recoil of a rifle? Just wondering about weapon mounting it.

The ThruNite Store Forum just opened a group buy for this at $34.50. They need to hit 100 "wants" to trigger the group buy. Nice deal!

After it memorize the current mode, if you turn it back on and change mode, would it go to the next mode or start back in firefly mode?

Also the tint... is it blue or pure white?

Thx