Driver mod assistance an XML bike/headlight

Hello all,

Some time back I purchased 4 Cree XML Bike Lights on Amazon. They are generic, but very bright. The idea is to mod them to attach to the roof rack of my Jeep Cherokee. I occasionally need lots of area lighting on job-sites and campsites for extended periods, and normal halogen off-road lights drain the battery too quickly. And, to be honest, the LED offerings from the off-road lighting companies are just insanely expensive.

While I have the skills to fabricate mounts, do the basic switch/relay wiring, and some basic soldering, I'm a complete dunce at electronic circuits. I have looked at several drivers on DX, but I'm not sure if I even need to do that, and I have issues with other drivers fitting into the existing heat sink and light housing.

I wondered if any of you circuit gurus could tell me if the driver for these lights could be modded to run solely in high mode (it's currently high/low/strobe), and if there is a way I can bypass the switch on the driver and just activate the circuit with a standard spst or spdt switch in the cab of the Jeep. I have hooked the light up to 12V DC at 1 amp and the light seems to run fine on that. Normally, it runs on a battery pack consisting of (4) 18650's soldered together.

I tried like crazy to get some decent shots of the driver board, even running to the camera shop to buy a macro adapter.

Any help would be appreciated, and I'll gladly reciprocate with some computer/IT guidance if anyone needs it. If further info is needed, I'll do my best to find it and report back. Thank you.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40427356@N05/8532048157/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40427356@N05/8532047875/

Boker and QPA Pro shown for scale against XML Bike Light

http://www.flickr.com/photos/40427356@N05/8532073797/

A picture of the back side of the driver board would be helpful. All I'm seeing of interest on this side is the MCU, switch, and some indicator LEDs. The circuitry regulating the LED is going to be on the other side. One of the pins on the MCU is probably being used for PWM to get the low mode but which one is the question. It could be as easy as disconnecting that pin and adding a pull up/down resistor. Heck, there could even be a solder pad on the back side to configure the board the way you want. It looks like you could desolder the driver pretty easily on the two spots on the circumference.