Nitecore EA4 Pioneer - Updated Switch Cover Material!

Bigmac_79

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As many of you know, Nitecore recently released their new 4xAA light, the EA4 Pioneer.



Unfortunately, we've had many reports of a failure of the switch cover. Apparently, when left in the car on a hot day, several members have returned to find the switch cover bubbled out or cracked. You can reference some of the reports here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ed-Switch-Cover-on-Nitecore-EA4-Pix-Questions
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...e-EA4-Ballooned-Melted-switch-Repair-Write-Up
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...and-finish-flaws-(take-your-poll-here-)/page3

In response to this, Nitecore has started using a new switch material that should fix this problem. They sent me a sample EA4 with this new material, and told me the old material was TPR (I'm guessing thermoplastic rubber), and has been replaced by a silica material that can stand up to 200 degrees C. They've asked me to test it out, and post the results here.

So, I'll start with the appearance of the switch cover before testing.



There is a blue LED indicator light that flashes underneath the switch cover so that the blue shines through. Here is a picture:



And here is a short video:



So, on to the testing. From what I've read, it seems the trouble happens when a person leaves the EA4 in an area where it's exposed to temperatures significantly above room temperature, most often in a closed car on a hot day (temperatures in there can reach 100 - 125 F pretty easily). This is pretty hot, but shouldn't cause trouble for a high-end flashlight.

There is much speculation about what exactly causes the deformation of the switch cover. Here seem to be the main ideas:

-The heat softens the material and causes it to deform
-The change in temperature of the air inside the battery compartment causes it to raise in pressure, pushing out on the switch cover and causes it to deform
-The batteries in the battery compartment heat up and vent gas, causing a raise in pressure that pushes out on the switch cover and causes it to deform
-A combination of these factors

I think it's most likely a combination of these factors - the heat softened the material, and the rise in pressure inside the battery compartment pushed out on the now softened material. To test the new material, I'll try each of these in stages. I'll post the results as I go along.

Day One

For the first test, I left the EA4 in a hot car all day, with the battery cap removed so that no pressure would build up inside the battery compartment. (I placed it in an open contained to contain any mess ;) )



I don't have a way to measure the temperature inside the car, but it was very hot. About as hot as you expect a car to get on a hot day, or maybe a bit hotter. At the end of the day, I don't see any flaws in the switch cover.

Day Two

For the second test, I will leave the light in the car with the battery cap on, but no batteries in the light so that there is no possibility of gas venting from batteries. I will leave the light out of direct sunlight, so only heat from the air warms up the light.



At the end of the day, I can't find any flaws in the switch cover material.

Day Three

For this test, I will leave the light in the car with the battery cap on, but no batteries in the light so that there is no possibility of gas venting from batteries. I will leave the light in direct sunlight, so the air inside the battery compartment will be heating faster than that outside.



After the test I still couldn't see any damage to the switch cover.



Day Four

For this test, I will leave the light in the car with batteries in the compartment and the cap closed, using high quality NiMH batteries (little chance of gas venting).

(no picture)

At the end of the day, no change in the appearance of the switch cover material, it looks still in great condition.

Day Five

For this test, I will leave the light in the car with batteries in the compartment and the cap closed, using low quality alkaline batteries (higher chance of gas venting).

(no pictured)

At the end of the day, no change in appearance or performance. I filled up the sink and left it underwater for a while, no sign of watering entering so it seems to have maintained it's waterproofness.



As of now, this test is considered compete.
I'll be leaving the EA4 in my car as an emergency light, so it will be exposed to high heat for the rest of the summer. If you don't hear anything, assume no change in appearance or function.

Conclusions

I haven't heard from Nitecore how they plan to handle the situation for those who have had a failure of their switch cover, or for those who have the old switch cover material but no failure yet.

EDIT 13 Aug 2013:
<
I've asked Nitecore which serial numbers have the old and new switch material, and how they're handling the situation for those who have the old, and I received the following response:

Nitecore Marketing said:
All the serial number begins with 307 (July 2013) are 100% renew the new material, the product gets in the market before July might be using the old material, but not all of them.

We will be happy to replace all the faulty material products, customers will only need to contact the dealer where they purchased, or email our customer service: [email protected], they will get a new EA4 for free.


Nitecore does not suggest users repairing their lights their own.

So, if your serial number starts with 307 you're safe, if not then you might have the old material. It's hard to tell just looking at the pictures, but the new material is slightly less transparent and slightly grayer. If I can get a good side by side comparison picture I'll post it here. If you've got something that's not a 307 and you're unsure, you can contact Nitecore at that email address with your serial number and they should be able to look up which material it has. >

EDIT 31 Aug 2013:
<
The EA4 has passed all my tests, no discernible effects to the switch. I'll leave it in my car to continue to expose it to heat over time, but if you don't hear anything, that means there have been no problems. All that remains is to see Nitecore follow through on the replacement of faulty units, so if you have any stories on the outcome of your communications with Nitecore please share.>
 
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texbaz

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I just hope they make replacement covers readily available, immediately. The switch cover issue keeps me from buying another Nitecore, solely on how they have handled this particular event. Good luck with the testing ill definetly be following this thread. Thanks
 

fireonhigh

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ive had this light for about 4 months, always kept in the house.i read all about the rubber switch, but i had kept the light in my truck for the past 2 weeks and the switch still hasnt warped, im in s.florida..i guess im lucky, but im sure it will expand sooner or later.nitecore will send out new caps hopefuly..i just went out to inspect it again,i havent used the light a real lot but it does seem with lots of clicks the rubber switch cover will wear out fast,the etching is almost gone on the rubber,they need to get this mess straight.
 
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pjandyho

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I have always wondered if this issue would happen to the EA8 Caveman. I don't leave the EA8 in a car but I am in a tropical environment where it is hot throughout the year. I can't help feeling that the rubber switch seems to be getting softer now over the last few months. Maybe it's just a psychological perception after reading all these reports on the EA4?
 

__philippe

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Bigmac,

Good to hear your detailed plans for testing out Nitecore new silica-based EA4 switch cover material.

I would like to suggest one additional step to your planned testing phases:

  • Flashlight left in car with batteries, tail cap closed, light switched ON.
    (Switched ON tests ideally repeated over several consecutive runs, each cycling to the next higher brightness level available)

    Thank for volunteering to carry out this elaborate test.

    __philippe
 
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mhanlen

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I haven't experienced any problems with mine yet, but these reports have me worried. I think I'm more worried that the switch might deteriorate slightly after my warranty period and the light will no longer be waterproof.

I would assume that a cracked switch would compromise the waterproof rating of the light. Can anyone confirm if I am correct in assuming this?
 

Bigmac_79

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Well, I had to use my van yesterday, so the temperature in it didn't really get hot enough to consider it a completed test. I'll be running the same test again today with the light sealed up but no batteries inside.

Bigmac,

Good to hear your detailed plans for testing out Nitecore new silica-based EA4 switch cover material.

I would like to suggest one additional step to your planned testing phases:

  • Flashlight left in car with batteries, tail cap closed, light switched ON.
    (Switched ON tests ideally repeated over several consecutive runs, each cycling to the next higher brightness level available)

    Thank for volunteering to carry out this elaborate test.

    __philippe

Certainly a good idea, though I hope nobody but me every actually does that to their light, leaving it on in a sealed vehicle during the heat of the day! This is probably possible for all modes but the Turbo mode, the heat buildup there would likely damage the emitter before anything happened to the switch cover, and while I want to test the light, I'd rather not destroy it if I can avoid it ;)

I haven't experienced any problems with mine yet, but these reports have me worried. I think I'm more worried that the switch might deteriorate slightly after my warranty period and the light will no longer be waterproof.

I would assume that a cracked switch would compromise the waterproof rating of the light. Can anyone confirm if I am correct in assuming this?

I haven't actually held one in hand with a cracked switch so I don't know the exact nature of the problem, but yes, if the cracks go all the way through, the waterproofing will be compromised.
 

mhanlen

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Well, I had to use my van yesterday, so the temperature in it didn't really get hot enough to consider it a completed test. I'll be running the same test again today with the light sealed up but no batteries inside.



Certainly a good idea, though I hope nobody but me every actually does that to their light, leaving it on in a sealed vehicle during the heat of the day! This is probably possible for all modes but the Turbo mode, the heat buildup there would likely damage the emitter before anything happened to the switch cover, and while I want to test the light, I'd rather not destroy it if I can avoid it ;)



I haven't actually held one in hand with a cracked switch so I don't know the exact nature of the problem, but yes, if the cracks go all the way through, the waterproofing will be compromised.

Thanks for doing these tests, and the answer to the question. This is probably the only light I own that I haven't disassembled- mostly because I'm afraid to damage anything.
 

markr6

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I have two EA4's, each have a different type of switch cover material but I cannot say what type for sure. I cooked both in my Jeep on a 98°F day for 9 hours and had no problems. Since then, they've been in an out of the heat seeing regular use. Still no issues.
 

__philippe

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Certainly a good idea, though I hope nobody but me every actually does that to their light, leaving it on in a sealed vehicle during the heat of the day! This is probably possible for all modes but the Turbo mode, the heat buildup there would likely damage the emitter before anything happened to the switch cover, and while I want to test the light, I'd rather not destroy it if I can avoid it ;)
Bigmac,

Quite understand your reluctance to test the EA4 with full Turbo mode ON for any lenght of time !

The reason I suggested a test with "light ON" is this nagging suspicion of mine about poor heatsinking being a plausible suspect for excessive internal heat generation, hence leading to cell venting and build up of internal pressure, finally leading to switch cover melting / ballooning / disintegration.

Such an extreme temperature test, if passed succesfully, would put my "catastrophic chain reaction" theory to rest once for all....:)

Thanks again for conducting your investigations.

__philippe

 
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Racer

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Please let us know what Nitecore comes up with for the existing owners. I've left the cap on mine partially unscrewed and I'm scared to take it anywhere because I don't want to melt the switch cover. I bought my EA4 for camping but it sits in a drawer. I'm also waiting to see what they do before I update my own review. So far it doesn't seem like they are being very proactive.
 

vermeire

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Any more test results. Looking forward to seeing if the new material fixes this problem. It's going on a week since I contacted Illuminationsupply.com about my cover expanding a bit. Kind of disappointed that I haven't heard back from them.....
 

LightOnAHill

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I would think that as a design defect, if the light fails to serve its intended and reasonable function, and can no longer work in its advertised function (such as remain waterproof or have a switch that works) then the buyer is out of a light and that would be property damage resulting from the design defect, which property damage would be a loss to the buyer, which loss resulting from the design defect creates a liability against the designing company and a claim for recovery of the liability.

thus, in my reasoning (without extensive research and without applying the specific state laws of the buyers) the designing company would be responsible to extinguish the buyers claim in some reasonable manner -- replacement or payment of money to relieve the property damages.

in some states that have adopted the UCC (uniform commercial code), if the designing company refuses to extinguish the claim by reasonable manner after a written demand requesting such, litigation would be appropriate and the designing company would most likely be required to pay attorney fees incurred by the buyer to pursue the claim in court.

therefore, it is in the designing company's best interests to properly and reasonable take care of all the buyers who purchased the light with the design defect.
 

Bigmac_79

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I've been out of town, and I will be until Tuesday. Testing will resume then if we have hot weather. (It's been unseasonably cool most of this week :shrug: )

Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse brevity and typos.
 

SCEMan

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I only use my EA4W for nightly walks/hikes so I'll most likely not encounter any temperature-related switch cover issues, but thanks to all for continuing to research & test this condition.
I'd love to see Nitecore issue an upgraded switch cover to all potential SN# owners. I really love the UI/feature set of the EA4 and see nothing else I'd replace it with at this time.
 

__philippe

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...I'd love to see Nitecore issue an upgraded switch cover to all potential SN# owners...
Issuing a new, upgraded switch cover to current EA4 owners is all very well in theory, provided the existing switch cover could actually be swapped easily in the field for a new one by users themselves, without risk of damaging any parts of the underlying switch in the process.

In the unlikely event that's indeed the route Nitecore intends to follow, the least they could do will be to publish some kind of illustrated how-to guide (video?) to perform the switch cover swap.

I really question whether the switch assembly would remain waterproof following such a user-implemented repair in the field, if at all feasible.

More likely, defective lights will have to be recalled by the manufacturer for a factory repair, or replaced by the dealer (at manufacturer's expense).

__philippe

 

SCEMan

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Supplying a "corrected" switch cover to those willing to perform the replacement (looks pretty straightforward from the posts I've seen) steps, would be the least Nitecore should do. Obviously, they should establish a return/replacement program at the dealer level for failed switch issues...

Issuing a new, upgraded switch cover to current EA4 owners is all very well in theory, provided the existing switch cover could actually be swapped easily in the field for a new one by users themselves, without risk of damaging any parts of the underlying switch in the process.

In the unlikely event that's indeed the route Nitecore intends to follow, the least they could do will be to publish some kind of illustrated how-to guide (video?) to perform the switch cover swap.

I really question whether the switch assembly would remain waterproof following such a user-implemented repair in the field, if at all feasible.

More likely, defective lights will have to be recalled by the manufacturer for a factory repair, or replaced by the dealer (at manufacturer's expense).

__philippe

 

Bigmac_79

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Ok, so I'm back in town, and rainy all week, so no relevant tests possible. :(

It's weird to find myself wishing for hot days. :shrug:
 

rpm00

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I was beginning to think the water testing got you electrocuted... ;) Still looking forward to these tests!
 
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