G2X Defender. Again..

Ok so was t sure where really to post this deal but I've been screwing around with the "non remove able head" SF's so this will be about my G2X defender I put together. Multiple things to talk about with this.

First off I didn't know the defender heads have POS plastic lenses like the G2x/6Px which annoys me not sure about anyone else. It seems like after a month of use carefully cleaning over time still gives me micro scratches. They don't affect anything but its pretty annoying that the defenders have metal bezel rings and still plastic lens. 6px btw not talking about other defenders of which I'm not sure.

Next up is I got tired of my defender having one mode so I decided to swap the chip which is stupid easy to unplug and plug in the two mode from the G2x. After screwing around and thinking I remembered someone telling me if you cut that tiny gold cercut wire on the bottom it will take away low mode. So I wanted to see how they make a "dedicated" single mode. Well turns out for anyone who doesn't know, that they don't make single mode chips they just cut the piece on the bottom of a two mode chip.
I know it's nothing major but isn't that a little cheap of them to do?? Then again the longer time goes by the cheaper SF seems to become. Maybe not maybe it just seems that way. I just want anyone to chime in on this about anything like how many people knew the deal over the chips, if its a good idea to replace the lens if so where to get one, if anyone else made a G2x Defener for better grip or what not.

I also have a question on grafite and resistance. I'm sitting here 2 am and wanted my one mode chip two be two mode so I completed contact on the chip with a pencil just for curiosity and it worked which surprised me just a little. I know grafite conducts I just didn't think drawing on the board would work. So my question is, is doing this a bad idea? Could it work long term? I can solder it I'm just awake board in my house and if I solder inside ill get it since the baby is in here. So for his sale I decided a pencil is safe haha.

I think them cutting on the circuit board is genius. It lowers manufacturing and labor costs and does not inhibit durability.... Win / Win for SF.

As far as the plastic lens, didn't bother me at all, micro scratches.... if you're starring at them with the light OFF they aren't really an issue.

As far as all the mods, buy the light you want, there're $70 bucks...even cheaper elsewhere.... It will still have warranty and hold some resale value..

Either way good luck, hope you get the desired results your looking for.


Keep It Simple!

Why not remove the strike bezel and replace the plastic lens with a glass AR coated replacement?

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...X-Pro-Thread&p=3834321&viewfull=1#post3834321

Just wasn't sure where to pick up a coated lens that would be a perfect fit.
I agree the lights are super cheap that's why I have a ton I just feel like some other cheaper lights have better lenses why not SF kinda thing.

R.W.D. said:

Just wasn't sure where to pick up a coated lens that would be a perfect fit.
I agree the lights are super cheap that's why I have a ton I just feel like some other cheaper lights have better lenses why not SF kinda thing.

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That's why I haven't purchased any of the new G2X/6PX lights - they just aren't as modular as the older 6P/G2/C2. Sorry bud, guess you might just be stuck with that plastic lens.

Yeah I see your point. It breaks down to cost ( they pay living wages ), but like I said really doesn't bother me at all and I am the definition of OCD, I feel fine with it. There are plenty of plastic polishers out there that are used for oxidized car headlights. Its just rebranded rubbing compound - to heavy and will scratch the lens. There is one that is made for plastic jeep windows, might want to look at that, I think its much less gritty.

I remember an old trick with Swatches.....They used to recommend this in store.... Toothpaste will often take car of small scratches, make sure its a smooth kind, no grit. People use this on there weapon lights as well to remove buildup on the lens.


Now after typing all that, I forgot...... Use 100% carnauba wax and a soft clean dry cloth. This is the best bet. It will fill in and smooth out the lens with no abrasives.

Ill have to try that for some reason I've never thought to polish the lens ever. I guess to be honest I use the never SF X lights as beaters anyways xD so it's not really a big deal at all I just get stuck on things and sometimes I look and see tiny insignificant scratches and it just bugs the crap out of me haha. Like we said they are cheap ill use them till they are to waisted then pick up a new one.

Some of these are probably used as weapon lights and/or see significant abuse and the plastic lenses are less likely to shatter. Malkoff uses acryllic lenses too for that reason.

These are fine to weapon mount???? With that tiny hardly soldered +contact? That's weird I'd never mount them without replacing that little spring and even then I feel like they need a buffer between the chip and batteries because I think gunfire would just slam the batteries into the chip. Idk though just my ideas based on what I see. Btw earlier models don't even have the tiny contact spring inside in just the chip contact. I have two G2s like that and my p2x fury combat light also.

Is anyone else's spell check being super screwy lately on cpf?? I've been getting weird problems with it..

At first they where not and stated so on the box, then a massive amount of people mounted them. 2 springs appeared on all the cheaper lights including the Fury Line.

Then the print on the box disappeared. "Officially" they are not designed for weapon mounting...... but I've seen almost zero reports of issues since they made the upgrade.


Also, that spring in the head is plenty sturdy. I'd go with a single mode light for that purpose.

Wait your saying two springs.. There is only a single sling in there if even one. I'm not talking about the older modular model G2's with interchangeable drop ins. I'm talking only about G2X and 6PX which arent the same modular design as the older models. The inner isn't the same there is a single micro spring that you can literally pluck off with your finger nail. I know because I've done it twice. I'm not sure what two springs your talking about but I would like to understand what you are talking about.

Now I'm not trying to talk against you I'm just saying what i know. And if you could explain the two springs I'd love to know.

The newest version of the G2X and 6PX have springs on both the positive and negative ends of the light.

R.W.D. said:

Wait your saying two springs.. There is only a single sling in there if even one. I'm not talking about the older modular model G2's with interchangeable drop ins. I'm talking only about G2X and 6PX which arent the same modular design as the older models. The inner isn't the same there is a single micro spring that you can literally pluck off with your finger nail. I know because I've done it twice. I'm not sure what two springs your talking about but I would like to understand what you are talking about.

Now I'm not trying to talk against you I'm just saying what i know. And if you could explain the two springs I'd love to know.

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No offense taken?

Like cland said,

There are 2 springs, head and tail on the "new" (think its been a year now?) G2X 6PX & Fury. I've seen multiple threads on mounting the dual spring lights without issue. Single mode would be best though. The double springs showed up after a revision and in my opinion was Surefires unofficial, quiet, response for making them weapon mountable. Then on at least the Fury, they removed "not suitable for weapon mounting" on the package. So point being, marketing wants you to buy weapon specific lights, while engineering made a small improvement that makes a huge difference when customers mount there "non weapon specific" lights. Springs = More durable. The springs I've seen aren't just popping off...?

Oh dude lmao I knew they had they rear spring obviously xD I thought you were referring to a second spring in the head of the light. I didn't think for a second that you were talking about the tailcap but my GF did haha. Anyways yea I personally wouldn't mount one of these lights until I soldered the + spring better. I have two things currently to mount a light on M4 55.6 which might be fine for the lights and my AR format 308 which I don't think the surefire would stand up with for too long haha idk though haven't tried it.

R.W.D. said:

Oh dude lmao I knew they had they rear spring obviously xD I thought you were referring to a second spring in the head of the light. I didn't think for a second that you were talking about the tailcap but my GF did haha. Anyways yea I personally wouldn't mount one of these lights until I soldered the + spring better. I have two things currently to mount a light on M4 55.6 which might be fine for the lights and my AR format 308 which I don't think the surefire would stand up with for too long haha idk though haven't tried it.

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Any recent model G2X / 6PX / or Fury single output light should be fine. Google around, there are a ton of people mounting these lights without issue. I've looked closely at the spring when I had my Fury and it appeared robust. I have no personal experience with this application, but like I said the consensus is that they are good to go.

Well I'm not looking to mount one anyways. I have dedicated weapon lights for that if I need one. anyways sweet info about the springs showing up like that.