How many lumen for a indoor weapon light?

Hey guys, looking at mounting a light on a home defense shotgun. Want something bright enough to light up a room, but not going to blind myself if I accidently shine it at a wall.

Is 500 lumens enough? To many?

Looking at the Olight M18 maverick specifically, but open to other options. Thanks.

Again this light (and the shotgun it is on) are for home defense, (wake up because the burglar alarm is going off type thing).

Eagle

I'm also looking for something for this use (but a bit more passively.) I guess I'd mount it to a potato or something and beam it at them LOL. I'm quite into the Nitecore MH20, or the Fenix TK16. Have a look at both.

Not to derail more then I normally do, but the MH20 is only sprung at one end, I think weapon lights are sprung at both ends.
Just saying.

Eagles1181 said:

Hey guys, looking at mounting a light on a home defense shotgun. Want something bright enough to light up a room, but not going to blind myself if I accidently shine it at a wall.

Is 500 lumens enough? To many?

Looking at the Olight M18 maverick specifically, but open to other options. Thanks.

Again this light (and the shotgun it is on) are for home defense, (wake up because the burglar alarm is going off type thing).

Eagle

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The pros have been using weaons lights from 150 to around 200 lumens for years. And they still do. In the middle of the night in a dark room, after you eyes have completely adjusted to the dark (up to 30 min.) try turning on a 500 lumen flashlight and pay attention just how blinding it is to your own eyes. Then when you turn it off you will realize that you have lost all of your prior night vision. At a certain level you can blind your adversary. Above that you just start bleaching away your own retinas, taking away your own ability to see in the dark. More is not always better. This is where a tactical strobe works well. It functions somewhat like Pulse Width Modulation where the strobe allows you to run at a higher output with less strain on the eye. I am refering to a light that has instant strobe. These two-three-click or click and hold strobe features are for armchair collectors.

Olight lists a pressure switch in the options section, so they seem to think it's weapon-rated. Having said that, 12 gauge 00 buckshot loads are supremely unfriendly towards lights.

Whether any lumen count is adequate or overkill depends entirely on how those photons are spread out. For shotty-mounted HD duty, a floody beam is your friend. This is typically accomplished via a large XM-L2 emitter and an orange peel (or light orange peel...LOP) reflector. Alternatively, optics designed for floody output are also useful, as offered by Elzetta.

Mounted on my HD shotty is a Surefire 6P with a 280 lumen Malkoff M61N sitting behind a frosted lens from flashlightlens.com (sourced from Oveready). It lights up a room very well, and the 4000K tint is less obnoxious bounced off light colored walls than 6500K cool.

I've actually never walked my house with strobe. I may do that this weekend with a FourSevens QT2L-X to see how well I can see.

Grizzman said:

Olight lists a pressure switch in the options section, so they seem to think it's weapon-rated. Having said that, 12 gauge 00 buckshot loads are supremely unfriendly towards lights.

Whether any lumen count is adequate or overkill depends entirely on how those photons are spread out. For shotty-mounted HD duty, a floody beam is your friend. This is typically accomplished via a large XM-L2 emitter and an orange peel (or light orange peel...LOP) reflector. Alternatively, optics designed for floody output are also useful, as offered by Elzetta.

I personally use a Surefire 6P with a 280 lumen Malkoff M61N sitting behind a frosted lens from flashlightlens.com (sourced from Oveready). It lights up a room very well, and the 4000K tint is less obnoxious bounced off light colored walls than 6500K cool.

I've actually never walked my house with strobe. I may do that this weekend with a FourSevens QT2L-X to see how well I can see.

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When I mentioned strobe I was referring to situations where the light is turned on temporarily and then off after the shot is made. Constant light will no doubt give better illumination. When using strobe somewhere between 15-18 thousand hertz has been shown to be optimal.

IMO, you'd be best served with a Surefire G2X Tactical. One mode, 2 hours of runtime, and 320 lumens of nicely dispersed light - it is stupid, simple, and perfect for a weapon. It makes an excellent weaponlight, and is only $50 online. Made in USA, lifetime warranty if something does go wrong. Lithium primary CR123 batteries in it mean the batteries will be ready to go for 10 years.

cland72 said:

IMO, you'd be best served with a Surefire G2X Tactical. One mode, 2 hours of runtime, and 320 lumens of nicely dispersed light - it is stupid, simple, and perfect for a weapon. It makes an excellent weaponlight, and is only $50 online. Made in USA, lifetime warranty if something does go wrong. Lithium primary CR123 batteries in it mean the batteries will be ready to go for 10 years.

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Thanks for the advice. I will look into that one. Do you have a particular website you recommend?

Thanks.

Eagle

Lumencrazy said:

The pros have been using weaons lights from 150 to around 200 lumens for years. And they still do. In the middle of the night in a dark room, after you eyes have completely adjusted to the dark (up to 30 min.) try turning on a 500 lumen flashlight and pay attention just how blinding it is to your own eyes. Then when you turn it off you will realize that you have lost all of your prior night vision. At a certain level you can blind your adversary. Above that you just start bleaching away your own retinas, taking away your own ability to see in the dark. More is not always better. This is where a tactical strobe works well. It functions somewhat like Pulse Width Modulation where the strobe allows you to run at a higher output with less strain on the eye. I am refering to a light that has instant strobe. These two-three-click or click and hold strobe features are for armchair collectors.

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Thank you. That is the information I have been looking for. I knew there was a point of to much light, but was not sure what it was (hence the question). Do you know of a light that has the ability to do instant strobe, everything I have seen starts in constant and then you have to manipulate to get to strobe.

Eagle

Eagles1181 said:

Thanks for the advice. I will look into that one. Do you have a particular website you recommend?

Thanks.

Eagle

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You're welcome. I find the best prices, in my experience, are usually from eBay sellers. Find one that has it for around $50 shipped, and that's about the best deal you'll find. Just make sure they have at least a 4 digit feedback number, and 99% or better, and you should be fine.

I just did a quick search, and I think if you go to eBay and search for item 361341708189, you'll be well taken care of.

I've used everything from a 120 lumen to 500 lumen weapon light to clear buildings, a few factorys, and the occasional wooded area.

Used to stand behind the 200 lumen max rule due to fear of white walling myself.

Bought an X300 Ultra and can tell you that I have changed the max number I used to go by. I have used the 500 lumens in all of the above situations and csn tell you that it performed flawlessly. I never once had any backwash of light that deterred me. In fact, having that extra light was very useful when you are under stress. You tend to do a very bad job of not noticing things and having that extra light made it so much easier.

We had to clear a pretty large factory a few times as training and it performed as you would want. It have me the ability to reach everything comfortably but not enough to have a negative effect.

I did use a 1200 lumen light in my room last night and cussed myself. So that's probably too much

To wrap this post up: 200 is fine. 500 is fine. I prefer thr higher number now. Either will serve you well.. just get a dependable light. A screwed up light is 0 lumens despite what it's pretty box says.

Source: been there done that .. I'm on my cell and auto correct is a joke. Ignore my spelling.

The question is not how many lumens, but rather how many candelas. And the answer is more than 6-7000, if you want to go for sure, then >10000.
You want to use use a focused beam to blind the bad guys, making them unable to look into your direction. Surefire makes some nice weapon lights, but if you want some budget solution, you can go for Nitecore as well, they have we several 13000+ candela tactical lights with mounts for only 50-70$.

I always looked at a weapon light as a tool of awareness when speaking in terms of home defense. If you're in a typical home, you don't need a lot of candela to blind an attacker. Heck, I remember reading that a minimum of 60 lumens was needed to temporarily blind an assailant. If that is true, nearly any decent light will do. I would rather have a floody beam in my house than a narrow beam.

xyadam said:

The question is not how many lumens, but rather how many candelas. And the answer is more than 6-7000, if you want to go for sure, then >10000.
You want to use use a focused beam to blind the bad guys, making them unable to look into your direction. Surefire makes some nice weapon lights, but if you want some budget solution, you can go for Nitecore as well, they have we several 13000+ candela tactical lights with mounts for only 50-70$.

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What.. It's been so long since I've heard candela used I've actually forgot how to translate any of that.

cland72 said:

I always looked at a weapon light as a tool of awareness when speaking in terms of home defense. If you're in a typical home, you don't need a lot of candela to blind an attacker. Heck, I remember reading that a minimum of 60 lumens was needed to temporarily blind an assailant. If that is true, nearly any decent light will do. I would rather have a floody beam in my house than a narrow beam.

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I agree. My previous post wasn't to say that you NEED 500 lumens. I'm basing that off my use of the X300 Ultra. I'm saying that I used/use it and have not have any negative effect.

Could I have done the same thing with less? Yes.

Search said:

What.. It's been so long since I've heard candela used I've actually forgot how to translate any of that.



I agree. My previous post wasn't to say that you NEED 500 lumens. I'm basing that off my use of the X300 Ultra. I'm saying that I used/use it and have not have any negative effect.

Could I have done the same thing with less? Yes.

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I was responding to xyadam since he advocated a minimum candela figure which, IMO, isn't as important and flood and lumens. In fact, it goes to show you that a 500 lumen X300U is probably more useful than a 200 lumen TIR beam from a scout light or LX2, for example. It isn't about candela, beam profile, or lumens alone - it is a happy combination of the three.

cland72 said:

I was responding to xyadam since he advocated a minimum candela figure which, IMO, isn't as important and flood and lumens. In fact, it goes to show you that a 500 lumen X300U is probably more useful than a 200 lumen TIR beam from a scout light or LX2, for example. It isn't about candela, beam profile, or lumens alone - it is a happy combination of the three.

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Oh I know I was just agreeing with your point :thumbsup:

In my house, I find 200 lumen Surefire light is more than ample. I always have a flame thrower in arms reach. No pun intended. I find if I get too far past 300 or so lumen I have too much bounce. I want to light the perp, not the whole room. I have 200 lumen heads on Scout lights or 860 pump forends.

Don't think 200 or 300 is bright enough for your mansion? At night, once your eyes are adapted, have a friend blast you from across the room/parlor with 200 or 300 lumen when you are not expecting it. This test should be a real eye closer.

I also don't want to blind my big scary dog that is gonna be heading towards the unlucky criminal. Truth is, with the dogs I don't need much of a light. They are gonna get there first and handle business. Maybe I could put a Picatinny rail on the dogs collars and mount a Scout on them? They would have a Scout by their snout. I am getting carried away. Better stop here.

See, I am looking for something that will light the room, because on occasion I will have to clear a room. (Very not ideal, but if somebody breaks in I have to ensure the kiddo is secure, which means going to get her.) Therefore I want something that will light up the entire room, including the target hiding in the corner. Can anybody suggest a good floody light in the 200 - 300 lumen range that runs on 18650 batteries?

Eagle

I performed my FourSevens strobe test earlier this evening, after dark adjusting my eyes. I'd forgotten whether I changed strobe to head tight or loose, and guessed wrong as I bounced it off the light colored wall by the front door. I then shone it into the opposite corner. Even with 750+ lumens, I had no problem focusing on the imaginary perps. This is because it's got a huge hot spot with very bright spill. I've recommended Quark Tactical CR123 lights several times in the past for duty use, but they seem to now be discontinued.

Eagletac and ArmyTek lights are reported to be durable, but as far as I know they have smooth reflectors for intense hot spots, not floody room lighting profiles.

What's your budget? Does it need to have a 1" diameter body to use your intended mount?

The G2X Tactical Cland recommend is an outstanding suggestion. The 6PX Tactical, which has an aluminum body and somewhat higher price tag is also worth considering. It shouldn't be too difficult to locate beamshots of them on youtube.

Str8stroke said:

In my house, I find 200 lumen Surefire light is more than ample. I always have a flame thrower in arms reach. No pun intended. I find if I get too far past 300 or so lumen I have too much bounce. I want to light the perp, not the whole room. I have 200 lumen heads on Scout lights or 860 pump forends.

Don't think 200 or 300 is bright enough for your mansion? At night, once your eyes are adapted, have a friend blast you from across the room/parlor with 200 or 300 lumen when you are not expecting it. This test should be a real eye closer.

I also don't want to blind my big scary dog that is gonna be heading towards the unlucky criminal. Truth is, with the dogs I don't need much of a light. They are gonna get there first and handle business. Maybe I could put a Picatinny rail on the dogs collars and mount a Scout on them? They would have a Scout by their snout. I am getting carried away. Better stop here.

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For whatever reason.. this post made me think of something. All the times I had to use my 500 lumen X300U indoors I was wide awake and on duty. I never really tried this when I was awoken in the middle of the night.

I think in the morning when I wake up for work at 4:30 I'm going to use my E2DLU to try to find the bathroom and see if I change my mind about a very close quarters light.