Help: ? on P61, E2 and LEDs

Hi all,
I had been reading about the thermal shotdown on a E2+ with a mod P61. Also, I've been confused with the flood/throw comparisons of LS-mods for the E2s/L4/PRs, and had browsed with Quickbeam's throw-vs-flood chart of P61/P60 and L4.

Questions :
1. Would a P61/C-bezel + e2c on a E2 body makes a better and worthy light vs the e2+?
2. Which PR/PR-T head would match or outmatch the L4 in terms of throw and flood for either 2x123 and 1x123 setup? What could you recommend?
3. Can a PR/PR-T-mod outmatch a P61 output and throw already, or not just yet?
4. I'm hoping to get a mod that would have a P61 output on an e2 body. But, is this really necessary, and instead just upgrade a Z2 with a P61 and a pyrex bezel...

Please share me your thoughts.

Johnny

I put together an emergency kit that conatains an E2E stock. It also has an E-series head with a MN02 lamp for longer run, and E2C on a C-Series with a P60. The P60 is not all that much brighter, but has a litlle more throw. I might pick up a P61 for super bright, but at 20 minutes run time, and the thermal issue, I am not sure it is worth it. I have not yet done a run time test with the P60, but I may tonight.

The PR head should out throw the L4 easily depending on the current to the LED.

Johnny
1,If you really decided to go with the P61 in E2e. P61/C-bezel + e2c is worthy to go. As E2+ got hot very very easily, it burnt my finger many times after I just using it for "say 2-3mins". It is really HOT /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
3,To outmatch P61 in total output? You may need to overdriven alot in a X bin's 5W. L4 is just rated at 65 SF's lumen. over 120 lumen?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon6.gif I dont have PR-T yet, so not sure Lux3 DB917 can out throw it or not. someone may do the expriment for you.
4,To mod a E2+, you should ask yourself what you wants? E2+ has the highest brightness/size. BUT it is short blast only. I never turn it constant-on more than 3 mins.

Nothing beats the E2E+'s output, for it's size. It is only best for intermittent or "tactical" use though.

If you are considering the Z2 plus the Pyrex bezel, I would recommend the C2-BK, C2-HA or G2Z, also. The C2's and G2Z already come with the Pyrex bezel and have grip rings (not adjustable on C2's). The G2Z also comes with the lanyard ring and lanyard, as with the Z2.

I am looking at the E2E+, E2E with E2C plus Z44, G2Z-OD and the C2-HA.

The E2E+ is the shortest and lightest of the four. Very close to the original E2E.

The E2E with the E2c adapter plus Z44, is the longest (2-3mm longer than the C2-HA and G2Z-OD) and just a little lighter than the C2-HA and G2Z-OD. The E2C adapter is the reason for the weight and length.

The C2-HA is the heaviest of the four, but not by much.

The G2Z-OD will also have thermal shutdown with the P61, according to some posts I've read. I think thermal shutdown occurs after about 10 minutes. It is the same length as, and a little lighter than, the C2-HA, without the lanyard.

oldgrandpajack

Thanks, Oldgrandpajack.
I've actually been thinking of going into three directions.

1. I'll get either a Z2 or C2 and stick up a P61. This will become the "night tactical companion" of my G!ock. I'm getting convince to make this set-up as simple as possible. No more sense of going complicated with an enhanced E2. Size is not much of a factor, as well as runtime.

2. I currently carry a KL1/VG123. Very small but not-so-tactical. I'll be enhancing it with a E1 body soon. But I'm also thinking of for enhanced-EDC light. I'm still deciding on which led-bezel to take -- either a L4-bezel or PR-mods. I have to make a decision on which balance to take -- throw or flood. Size and runtime will be much of a factor.

3. As a general purpose light, I think the KL1/2AA will suffice. Using 2100-mAH NiMH rechargeable give me guilt-free lumens for ordinary home use.

What do you think?
Johnny

I like the way you are thinking.

Just remember, you will have to buy the Pyrex bezel if you want one on the Z2.

But then you will have to buy the lanyard and special lanyard ring for the C2. I am considering replacing the long pocket clip with the short one, on my C2's, so I can use the normal lanyard ring on them.

The G2Z has it all, except for the thermal shutdown, with the P61, after about 10 minutes. Ten minutes is an awfully long time though, when using the P61.

I just compared the KL4 on an E1E-HA (TW4), to the PR-T-BB611-TX1K on an E1-HA. The TW4 doesn't come close in performance. An added plus, the PR-T-BB611-TX1K is regulated, while the KL4 on the E1E-HA isn't. Looks like this KL4 is going back on an L4 body.

I absolutely love the KL1 on a 2AA body. The ability to use any type of AA batteries at hand, in an emergency, and the long runtime with three 123A lithiums, make it an unbeatable combination. The output is more than sufficient, in most circumstances.

oldgrandpajack

Oldgrandpajack,
Interesting. More questions :
1.How do you find the output of your PR-T-BB611-TX1K on an E1-HA, relative to a L4? Throwwise and floodwise.
2. In terms of run time with a 1x123, can it stay on regulation for 1 hour continuous usage?
3. How "hot" does the PR-T head gets after an extended runtime of about 10 minutes?

Thanks.
Johnny

The L4 is a great floodlight. The PR-T-BB611-TX1K is a spot light, but there is enough sidespill to still be useful in a room.

I don't know what the runtime is though. I haven't run many of my lights anything close to 10 minutes. The exceptions are my Tigerlight and a KL3 with a traffic cone attached. Mostly, I am an intermittent user.
oldgrandpajack

akula88, the pr-t doesnt get hot after a run time of 10 mins, its barely warm to the touch, i have run a full set of batteries down on mine and its just warm, now the L4 on the other hand gets nice and toasty
mind you the higher the current the more the heat, mine is being driven at 700mAh
cheers
Des

Des> Who made your sweet light <sig line>?

I'll think all things together over the weekend and make some notes. I incline to go a mod, a 3V 1x123 or 2xAA-- LuxIII more like it. I have yet to really clear up how it's going to be driven, but you guys can make some suggestions. I also have to consider that it should run with 2x123 sometimes. Spot would be a higher factor vs flood. I'm also thinking on whom to have it mod. I'm not so good with electronics and soldering minute things. Cost also brings in consideration. I'm not sure if a KL1-mod does bring the same result as a PR-T-based. E1 bezel seemed to be out of the picture because of some thermal concerns. I hope to get at least 45-60 minutes of regulated output from that.

Johnny.

akula88 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
bought the e20 off cpf, and bought the pr-t off the www.anlighten.com/shop website,
built the pr-t myself using all components bought online /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
good luck on your quest to find a light,
i read up a lot on the different combinations before settling on this combo, there is a wealth of info on cpf
cheers
Des