Will a Red Orange 2D mag throw 100 yards?

Someone wants me to build them a Red or Red-Orange mag to throw 100yards.

First question is, will it?

2nd Question is, He want's this for hunting as red light is hard for the animals to see. Will a Red-Orange luxeon scare them away? If so, Will a plain Red?

I'd of course use a HD...

How Whitetail Deer view their world!

I think beam intensity still counts and movement(waving flashlight around) will give you away.

Hmm Can't hunt deer at night back home in VA. Against regs.

Deer here are way overpopulated. Just driving home to night I had to stop twice, and each time there was a group of 5-7 deer. It's bad. There is no limit, but they need to make it open all year round. Drive a highway and you see like 4 dead deer a night. It sucks! I know first hand when one jumped from a medain and hit the side of my car on the highway. My car is messed up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif and it was so nice... I'll fix it when I'm out of school this summer but still :angry:

What about question #1 though, will it throw that far?

Don't know about #1... but white tail populations in VA are way too large too.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Good luck with #1 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

not sure how the different wavelength would affect throw, but i'd assume the dispersion pattern would be the same, so yes?

not to mention red/orange is insanely bright!

just be careful to isolate the slug /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

The die is different than a 1w... but does a 1/3w throw 100yards then? I remeber about the slug...

yes, the die is a bit different, but the dispersion pattern should be pretty much the same...

i don't know how many yards they throw, but the 1w/lux3's throw like a bananalauncher!

It should. I put a 1W r/o in a Mag 2C. It is actually brighter (and throws better) at 400mA than a Q2H white HD at 700mA. Like everyone's said, be sure to isolate the slug. Getting it on a star (which is always isolated), then grinding down the star board would work well.

I'm also trying to find a way to mount a 1W red-orange /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gifI have a couple good bin R4F red I was thinking about using also. Only I'm putting mine in a Mini Mag with Fraen. Don't wait for my results its going to take forever and I'm still thinking of a way to isolate the slug...I'm thinking about using a thing layer of Artic Alumina and letting it dry on the back of the emitter, then using another layer to stick it to the board. Or else I'll be grinding away at a sart board myself,....

I'll probably make one of each since it will be a cheap mod...I can't figure out what color MM to buy to represent red-orange! lol

I'm still hoping they will find a way to make red available in Lux III version.

evan: Grinding down the star would be hard.. I was thinking a thin layer of Alumina epoxy on the heat sink, let it dry, then glue the emitter to that. Also, I won't be removing the anodizing on the maglight, would that alone work? I'll probably get a hotlips for this since I don't have any aluminum rods to make a pedistal for correct focus. 5W's don't need a pedistal (mine didn't) but I hear single die ones do.

Justin: If you do the thin layer of AA, applying it first to the board would be easier. That way you can get it just right, and not too thick. You could do a purple minimag. I think that would be a kick! I think I'm going to put a R/O LD with the new high-output die P/N in a minimag with a McFlood for a superbright 55+ lumen flood light!

Have you placed an order for the R/O's yet? If not could I PayPal you for some parts and you order a few extra? I'll need a R/O HD, and the newer R/O LD. Part #'s: LXHL-MHID & LXHL-MHAC. That way I don't have to pay 10bucks for shipping on 2 little things. We can divide up the shipping costs together.

Isaac, That would be cool, But to let you know I'm waiting till next month to order I hear more T-bin Lux III's will be available then...So I'm holding off in hopes to score a couple of those.

I can probably wait. Can you order by bin on the luxIII's? Or are you buying a whole reel or something?

for isolating, i've used sharpie marker. you need to be careful though, as if you scratch it at any time, you could loose isolation.
sharpie works well, because even if you use several coats, it's so thin that you still get a good thermal bond /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Wow, and that actually works to isolate it! Would it scratch off when you press down the emitter and move it around though?

i suppose it could but you just need to be careful /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

2 layers of sharpie, and let them dry well. then use arctic alumina and push straight down.
since aa is non-conductive as it is, it will help to make sure nothing contacts.

you can try putting a couple layers of sharpie onto the heatsink, letting it dry, and then play around with it to see how well it scratches. you can always clean it off with a little elbow grease and cleaner of some sort.

if you're careful, this should work better than 2 layers of arctic alumina, because it's much thinner.

I guess the sharpie is a thin type of paint.. I know AA gel (not the epoxy) was taking off the purple sharpie writting on my 5W green mag, even rubbing alcohol was a little bit. Perhaps the purple isn't as permanant. (I wrote "5W green V2T" on the heat sink). I'm getting a good idea so far of what I'll do.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I'm not sure on the sharpie idea, have you done tests? Seems like you would be cloging the pores in the aluminum base with ink...I'm sure it would work, and it would definately be thinner than artic alumina in 2 layers! But does it work well enough to use Sharpie and Artic Silver? Would this be better than the lead stuff they use to transfer heat on many retial heatsinks? Just curious....

I'm just ordering from future, so I probably can't pick bins, but I heard a rumor going around that there will be more T bins come april...Of course no gaurantes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsdown.gif , but for how much I order from them it's about time they sent me a couple decent bins...I can't seem to find good T-bins anywhere at the moment... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif

The heat sink for my R-O mega death ray is a two-part thing. First, I took some 1"x1/8" aluminum bar stock, and cut a rounded piece, then epoxied it flat to the front of the body, so it rests on top of the tube, and isn't contacted by the threads of the head. By leaving the andonize on the tube, it isolates the heat sink. Then I took a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum, and formed a 10mm square piece, centered it on the heat sink (by using the hole in the reflector), then I epoxied the emitter to the center of the square. This provides overkill heat sinking for the R-O luxeon, since it's only run at about 400mA from fresh batteries. This also provides good isolation for the emitter as well.

evan Huh. Not even into the mag body.. but I guess it's only 400ma like you said..

Justin: I'd stay away from Artic Silver for red mods... Are you talking about the "lead" stuff like as in the tape they use on heatsinks? I'd assume that stuff isn't very good...