Ty_Bower
Flashlight Enthusiast
First, my apologies if I repeat information found elsewhere in this forum. There's a lot of good threads here, and I don't think I would have been able to mod my LSH without them.
Second, my thanks for all that above mentioned good info. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I like my Arc LSH-S quite a bit, so much in fact I bought another (a factory second). However, they just weren't quite bright enough. After reading many of the articles here, I decided to fiddle with the factory second.
I learned how to loosen the retaining ring and extract the insides. I bought a 0.22 ohm resistor and a Fraen optic from the Sandwich Shop. I seem to recall someone made a comment comparing the SMT resistors to the size of fly turds. They weren't kidding. I've got a lot of new found respect for those in the forum who mod the Arcs on a regular basis.
The 0.22 ohm addition ought to have increased the drive current to about 560ma. I realize that reading the current draw off the battery is inherently inaccurate, but that's the easiest thing for me to measure. In my case, battery drain almost doubled. I've noticed the light warms up very quickly now, but doesn't become intolerably hot. I suspect the battery life is halved.
The increase in brightness was noticeable, but disappointingly low. If there is a next time, I'll definitely try to get my hands on a better binned Luxeon instead of just upping the current to the stock emitter.
I really like the Fraen optic, and I wish Peter would sell LSH Standards fitted with them. It was tricky to get it in the light, and it still has a fair amount of lint on it. I tried cleaning the original NX05 optic with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol. It seemed to leave a haze on the plastic, so I avoiding doing that to the new Fraen.
Centering the optic and the emitter seems to be a matter of luck, and nearly impossible for me. Again, more respect for the pro-modders, and those who work at Gransee's shop. I first thought that rotating the circuit board was the trick, until I realized the pressure from the optic was actually twisting the emitter on the board. During one try, I almost cried when I put in the battery and it didn't light up. I was able to gently twist it back, and I stuck a tiny dab of solder on each leg to help beef it up.
Overall, I think I'm satisfied with my amateur efforts. It's got quite a bit more kick now, even if the beam pattern isn't as perfect as it was when it was new. I'll have a lot of fun using it on the 2AA NiMH pack as my "walking outside at night" light.
Second, my thanks for all that above mentioned good info. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I like my Arc LSH-S quite a bit, so much in fact I bought another (a factory second). However, they just weren't quite bright enough. After reading many of the articles here, I decided to fiddle with the factory second.
I learned how to loosen the retaining ring and extract the insides. I bought a 0.22 ohm resistor and a Fraen optic from the Sandwich Shop. I seem to recall someone made a comment comparing the SMT resistors to the size of fly turds. They weren't kidding. I've got a lot of new found respect for those in the forum who mod the Arcs on a regular basis.
The 0.22 ohm addition ought to have increased the drive current to about 560ma. I realize that reading the current draw off the battery is inherently inaccurate, but that's the easiest thing for me to measure. In my case, battery drain almost doubled. I've noticed the light warms up very quickly now, but doesn't become intolerably hot. I suspect the battery life is halved.
The increase in brightness was noticeable, but disappointingly low. If there is a next time, I'll definitely try to get my hands on a better binned Luxeon instead of just upping the current to the stock emitter.
I really like the Fraen optic, and I wish Peter would sell LSH Standards fitted with them. It was tricky to get it in the light, and it still has a fair amount of lint on it. I tried cleaning the original NX05 optic with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol. It seemed to leave a haze on the plastic, so I avoiding doing that to the new Fraen.
Centering the optic and the emitter seems to be a matter of luck, and nearly impossible for me. Again, more respect for the pro-modders, and those who work at Gransee's shop. I first thought that rotating the circuit board was the trick, until I realized the pressure from the optic was actually twisting the emitter on the board. During one try, I almost cried when I put in the battery and it didn't light up. I was able to gently twist it back, and I stuck a tiny dab of solder on each leg to help beef it up.
Overall, I think I'm satisfied with my amateur efforts. It's got quite a bit more kick now, even if the beam pattern isn't as perfect as it was when it was new. I'll have a lot of fun using it on the 2AA NiMH pack as my "walking outside at night" light.
