Why won\'t a KL4 work on a 1 x 123 Vital Gear body?
I bought one of the new clicky Vital Gear bodies for my (older; first generation) KL1. It works *great*. Nice package. I love it.
On a whim, I decided to try my KL4 head. Nothing.
Tried a new battery.
Nothing.
Tried every brand of new 123 I have: Sanyo, Toshiba, Duracel, Energizer, SureFire, and a generic.
Nothing.
Put the KL4 head on my E1 body. Works with every battery.
Checked the resistance through the VG switch: reads 0.1 ohm, the limit for my cheap DMM. I can't zero it; if I hold the leads together, it reads 0.1 ohm, on the lowest scale, which is 20 ohms, not exactly optimal, but should show if resistance is a factor...
(The SF E1 with Yclo clicky meters the same, BTW)...
Tried a 123 made from a 223 that is longer, by about 20 thousands of an inch (with a solder blob) than a SureFire 123. Succeeded in 'collapsing' the curious little springs in the base of the VG body; but still nothing. Had to pry up the springs to get my KL1 working again.
I bought the VG specifically for my KL1, but I can't figure out why the h*ll my KL4 won't work on it.
This makes no sense. If I had bought it for my KL4, I'd be *really* pissed, but since I didn't, I'm merely completely mystified.
Anything I've missed?
Ideas? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I bought one of the new clicky Vital Gear bodies for my (older; first generation) KL1. It works *great*. Nice package. I love it.
On a whim, I decided to try my KL4 head. Nothing.
Tried a new battery.
Nothing.
Tried every brand of new 123 I have: Sanyo, Toshiba, Duracel, Energizer, SureFire, and a generic.
Nothing.
Put the KL4 head on my E1 body. Works with every battery.
Checked the resistance through the VG switch: reads 0.1 ohm, the limit for my cheap DMM. I can't zero it; if I hold the leads together, it reads 0.1 ohm, on the lowest scale, which is 20 ohms, not exactly optimal, but should show if resistance is a factor...
(The SF E1 with Yclo clicky meters the same, BTW)...
Tried a 123 made from a 223 that is longer, by about 20 thousands of an inch (with a solder blob) than a SureFire 123. Succeeded in 'collapsing' the curious little springs in the base of the VG body; but still nothing. Had to pry up the springs to get my KL1 working again.
I bought the VG specifically for my KL1, but I can't figure out why the h*ll my KL4 won't work on it.
This makes no sense. If I had bought it for my KL4, I'd be *really* pissed, but since I didn't, I'm merely completely mystified.
Anything I've missed?
Ideas? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif