Bin Code Question

I acquired a Q3 from 3rd_Shift_Lights. It was one in which he upgraded the Luxeon to a TWOJ. Really nice light! He also gave me the original star that came in the Q3. I sort of understand the bin code system, but there are more than 4 letters on the back of my star, and I am unsure which ones tell me what I need to know.

The first line is "SVALW 0024160" - I assume that is an ID number.
The next line is "3104LXHLLW3C" - What does that mean?

I would like to use the left-over star to make a DD light out of a 3D M@g that I have. Would I need to use a resistor?

(By the way - thumbs up to 3rd_Shift! Great transaction!)

SVALW = S - Flux bin, VA? = Color tint (there is no known VA tint - V1 or V0 or it could be WA), L = Vf bin, W = white LED

The next number group might be a batch number

3104 = manufacture date, 31st week of 2004

LXHLLW3C = LXHL-LW3C, that's the manufacturer part number, and corresponds to part numbers in the data sheets, and the Future Electronics part number

That is probably SYAL, color bin being YA. This is the bin that was originally in my Q3, now a TWOJ also. The SYAL was slightly pink - not an unpleasant tint.

Here's a picture of the back of the star.


Yes, that does look like a "Y", and not a "V". Thanks for the heads-up.

Anyone know about using it in a DD 3D M@g mod?

I'm using SWAKs in DD on a 3D mag, works great, very white, draws about 1 amp. A T would be brighter but the S rank works fine. I think it is best to have some resistance just in case of unusually adverse conditions or Vf creep over time. Your L Vf should work OK on DD but even then 1/2 ohm is probably just good insurance. I figure if mine burns out it will be a good time to upgrade...

just search in the modified lights forum for 1000s of posts on mag mods

Thanks, everyone. I think I'll give it a try!

Just bend the stars sides a few degrees with good pliers before desoldering it.
This way, it will fall right off when desoldered.
You will then need to clip the leads a bit shorter to protect them from breaking.
Then clean some of the leftover adhesive from the underside of the emitter with a small, sharp metal pick, or scissor blade tip with care.

SYAL is a fine one for direct drive on 3 cells with no resistor.
It should come in at 1 amp max on really new alkaline batteries.
This led in particular is a creepy purplish tint.
But it may whiten up some when driven hard on a good heatsink.
Good luck on that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

DD that sucker. I have DD'ed a K bin before and on fresh alkalines it drew 1.2amps for maybe 10seconds and then it was down to 1 amp and falling. I just did another, with .47ohms on a J bin Vf, and fresh alkalines was 700ma... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

L Vf Should be perfect for DD as over time it should be just about right (the VF decreases a bit and settles over use).

I suggest de-soldering to free it first. I place a toothpick under the lead, apply soldering iron, and lift up gently. Then I take a razor blade and make sure it goes under compelety to make sure it's unsoldered.

Then put one side in a vise, grab the other side with pliars and bend a bit. Becarefull, the luxeon will fall off, or you can just pick it off.

Good luck, in a mag reflector you'll have a super-throw'er!