Please explain the JIL light..?

After reading many posts on a search I am now more confused about the little CR2 JIL Light.
I gather there are basically 2 different types with one having circuitry and the other direct drive. I also see one shows a short run time of about 2 hrs and the other showing 20 hrs of run time. Why is there such an incredible difference in run time? And why would anyone choose a 2 hour runtime over a 20 hour runtime?
What is the main difference between the two and what are the advantages of each style?
I am curious if the larger model with the circuitry is brighter with the trade off being run time. I have read that many are happy with either style however have yet to find any beamshots or actual lux readings from a comparison of the 2 models.
Can someone bring me up to date on the JIL light and briefly explain the differences between the two?
Thanks for the help.

I wish I could remember where I saw those beamshots about 6 weeks ago. Here's what I can remember, and can say about it.

The one with circuitry is much brighter using a regular Cr2. I have one and am actually quite pleased with it's performance. It's actually much brighter than I expected. I also have a u-bin Raw, and the Jil 1.3w, on a regular Cr2 is actually much brighter (but not even close on a fully charged RCR2).
A while back, somebody posted beamshots comparing these lights (1.3w/DD) to several other lights, and to themselves. Although it is recomended that RCR2's not be used in either light, apparently many people are using them in the DD, as was the poster of the beamshots. In those beamshots the DD, on a freshly charged battery (4.2v off the charger, I believe), was quite a bit brighter than the 1.3w.

Hope this helps some.

It does help me a little Trashman and I am still searching posts for additional information.
If I am thinking correct the one with circuitry will most likely be regulated and pull more from the battery thus the shorter run time.
I am still trying to figure out that 20 hour run time thing and wonder why there are 2 different styles to start with.
If the smaller one is just as bright for the first hour or so why would anyone want the bigger body with circuitry?
I am sure there advantages to both but I can only afford one so I am trying to choose wisely.
I do like the idea of a smaller style with 20 hours of run time and need to know why or why not I should consider the bigger model.

The DD version is also shorter because it doesn't have the boost circuitry but aside from that, they are basically the same light.

>robocop
If you are planning on using the regular CR2 type battery, get the (longer) 1.3 model for more brightness.

For the longest run time with less brightness -get the DD (shorter model).

-(using same battery in both cases)

From the searching of posts I have read that there seems to be some doubt as to these lights taking a re-chargeable CR2 very well.
I know that there are basically 2 types of 123 rechargeable cells with one almost a true 3 volt and the other coming off the charger at 4.2 volts. Is there also a rechargeable CR2 that is closer to the 3 volts of a regular CR2 ?
I would most likely get the bigger one for more brightness however it would also be nice if I could feel safe using a rechargeable cell.
If I was going to tempt the odds and use a rechargable cell would it be best to go with the DD model?

Hi, Robocop.

I played with these two lights(along with my modded one) for a while now and a modded Jil 1.3w UP is now my keychain EDC--more and more I can see why this is quickly becoming a new favorite amongst many CPFers:

Firstly, it has good HAIII finish, UCL, metal reflector and a decent output. Secondly, the Micropuck HO in 1.3w does give decent output/runtime for a CR2 battery, and the DD could be used for running RCR2.

For runtime/brightness tradeoff, if you look at the chart in the original thread, given the same bin, the DD does not run as bright as the 1.3W version. And the tradeoff is the DD has really long runtime while the output will somewhat steadily drop whereas the 1.3W has a lot more brightness in a much shorter runtime.

Some user will choose to have a higher Vf bin Lux III to allow the usage of RCR2, and that will certainly ensure more brightness from the DD.

And for the modders, the 1.3W is easy to mod to accept the normal sammie--which will mean I could choose either longer runtime or more brightness by changing the sammies in the mod.

Anyway, as CPF motto always go: when in doubt, buy em' both. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Actually, the DD version doesn't like RCR2's very much - I think it's because they may have used a low Vf-binned Lux for these. That's the word straight from the manufacturer, regarding the 'not suitable for RCR2's.

The JIL CR2 1.3 Rev I received last week is an impressive little light. To my eyes, the output and pattern is roughly comparable to my SureFire U2 Luxeon V on the third setting, and similar to a Pelican M6LED Luxeon I pattern and output. If you look at the graphs, the normal CR2 has much higher output than the DD version, but for a shorter period of time -- which, IMHO, is fine for a backup/keychain light that's used for short periods of time.

The beam is quite white, as is apparently true for all Luxeon III lights, and the reflector yields a beam with a very regular shape, and good throw. You can see the LED leads if the beam is shone close to a wall, but the output from such a small light is very impressive. Nicely made, with a shiny HA-III finish.

The light puts my former keychain light, an ARC-AAA Ltd. Ed., to shame. It's wider and shorter, but there's no comparison in output.

I wonder what they could do with a CR123!

Although it's not recommended, I exclusively run an RCR2 in my Jil DD that uses a TWOJ emitter. That light kicks-a**. I'm unsure of the long term affects, but the ride is certainly a nice one, until it stops working one day.

I have the DD version and very impress by the quality of the HA III, good level of brightness and long run time. Just wondering how is the 1.3 W version compare with the Q 3 ?

Many thanks

I believe I may try to get both of them if I can. I was shocked at the size in comparison shots and this light has a very cool "look" to it.
I have a spare TYOK that I may could put to use. Does anyone know what BIN most of the JILs have from the maker?
Also if I purchase one now will it have the upgraded parts or do I have to ask for the reflector and lens?

I think the "UP" part in the name means it already has the upgrade. It took me a good bit of reading threads to pick up on this. Initially I ordered the lights + upgrade kit and then had to change my order.

robo i will tell ya the 1.3 run's a long time. I very surprized it being a CR2. longer then my KL-1 and ARC LSH-P.
and VERY bright. I would rather have a consistent brightness of light then a slow dimming imho of course.VDG

Direct Drive= 20 hrs to what? No light? 50%?

I think I have some runtime charts in the Reviews Section.

[ QUOTE ]
voodoogreg said:
robo i will tell ya the 1.3 run's a long time. I very surprized it being a CR2. longer then my KL-1 and ARC LSH-P.
and VERY bright. I would rather have a consistent brightness of light then a slow dimming imho of course.VDG

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm with VDG on this topic. Quite happy with my 1.3w's, however I seem to have torched my first one, but that's another post.

The listed bin was TWxJ for both I believe, with a TWxK available upon request for the DD version so one could "safely" use R123's. They all come with the upgrade now, and my "up" has a nice darker color to it. It is one sharp light and has been in my pocket every day since I got it.

One last thing, I always wondered what JIL stood for.....I saw a post of etendue's that seemed to explain it. Jesus Is Light.....

Love my JIL's! The 1.3 is just devestatingly bright for such a small light, and will stay so for plenty of time, thanks to regulation. However, like all regulated lights, once it's done, it's pretty much done.

The DD, while about 1/2 as bright on a fresh primary cell, is my EDC keychain light, and I really like the long runtime (though it's pretty dim, down into ArcAAA range after the first 8 hours or so) for a light that might well be the only thing I have on me when I need it.

I think the 1.3 is just a little big for keychain use, but the DD is perfect. Can't say enough about these little gems.

Given how small they are, the size difference between the 1.3 and the DD is significant - add in the very different brightness/runtime curves, and they're really very very different lights from each other. Each has a place - DD on my keychain EDC, and the 1.3 joins my Firefly as my pants/shorts pocket carry, when I'm only carrying one light.

I think Size starts to get to diminishing return's, I Own a 1.3 and can roughly see the DD size difference, and I do intend to get one later, but I think personal preference is a 1AAA for a KC. the width is more of a hinderance to me to use as a KC light then the length.

I have been sort on cash but am ordering new 1.3 today /this week, I think if it's better then my first one, It will be a monster.My first jil is easely brighter then my ARC LSH-P, runs very long, (i know I keep saying that, but I am amazed because of the output and supposed low runtime of CR2's) great flood but still out throw's my now gone Q-III, and great tint. as much as I love my little
KL-1/VG FB-1 babies, i rarely carry them now, my main EDC is my HDS basic 60, a jil 1.3 somewhere handy, and a brand new peak
lug 1xAAA ultra power single LED around my neck.(which is a flamthrower, i can't believe the throw + brightness.)

I and not even remotely in danger of being in the dark.

BTW did i read the newest jil 1.3 has a little more throw then the first runs of jil's? VDG