AuroraLite
Enlightened
Dummy reference guide for making a Mag 2c nflex mod (pictures intensive)
This is another nflex mod of mine since the Mag 1D(thanks, Modamag!) and 2D(thanks, FM for 8AA to 2D!), I had truly enjoyed reading and making of these mods. And that’s why I have decided to contribute this dummy reference guide for Mag 2C nflex mod, hope it would help dummy like myself and someone would enjoy reading it. :o
A brief thank you note to Georges80 (for making nflex, the soul of this mod(!), and answering my questions), KenHK and Kiu(for your great ideas), Yaesumofo(for o-sinks), Wayne at Sandwich Shoppe(for Arctic Alumina Epoxy, Hotlip-C, AA) and all the talented modders who I had read and learn from on this forum! :bow:
Contents:
Section 1 Before Everything
Section 2 Shopping/recommended tool list
Section 3 Assembly
Section 4 Suggestion/ Related links
Section 1 Before Everything
This is a dummy reference guide for making the Mag 2C Lux III nflex mod(intended to use with 3x123), by no mean it is an ‘official’ guide for making such mod.
The whole process may take a few hours of work (or much much less if you are seasonal modder), I would encourage you to read thru the whole post/thread to understand the process completely and the work required. Hopefully, you will learn from my rights and wrongs and thus pick up a tip or two from this. Also, this process is irreversible, so once you have modded the Mag2C, there is no turning it back to it’s original stage. YMMV. ;)
Each section header is highlighted in different colors, and any important ‘note’ or pointer will be bolded.
Since it is a dummy guide, so I hope to be as detailed as I can, all the pictures are in sequence and numbered with section number(s1, s2…) and sub-section number(001, 002…).
Enjoy!
Simple definitions:
Nflex - a converter board made by our fellow member, Georges80.
AA - Arctic Alumina Epoxy
Emitter - here refers to Luxeon III Led, usually means it has been extracted from original 'star'
Switch plate - the two metal pieces that rest on top of the spring loaded round metal plate in switch assembly. (See S3007, on top and below the big spring)
Bottom switch plate - refers to the switch plate below the big spring, in S3007
Anode plate - unless it is otherwise specified, it should mean the bottom switch plate (also the original anode contact for Mag 2c)
Rotary ratchet - the two white plastic pieces that enable the ‘clicking’ and locking of the switch. As shown in S3007, to the left and right of the big spring.
Section 2 Shopping/recommended tool list
Some thoughts on board, body, lux IIIs:
Nflex
After some good reading for making the Mag body mods, I felt that currently nflex is one of the most versatile and great featured board for my use. Though many CPFers would have already know this, it is a step-down (buck) converter with switching capability, with max of 1A drive level to Lux III and 8 levels of brightness setting. Here is the link to the feature of this board
Choosing the body and color of Mag 2C
My reason for choosing a Mag2C for this nflex mod, besides there are fair amount of write-ups here, is because it is easy to come by, to work with and color of choices is bundle.
When it comes to Mag mod, one of the common dilemma is what kind of battery setting to use, and for Mag 2C, the easiest is the 3x123 which require no boring for the body tube. But from the experience of Mag Ds, different colors do seem to have slightly different inside diameter.
If you intend to use this flashlight very often or in harsh environment, I would strongly recommend you to get Sliver body since the scratches will not be as visible if it occurred.
Lux III Stars or Emitters
In terms of ‘tint’ (for ex, warm white vs. HID blue-ish tint), that’s just a personal thing. If you are not very familiar with the bin code system and tints, I would suggest to check out the beamshots from Review board on this forum, or see as many when there is flashaholic get together to develop a feel for it. For this mod, we will be talking about Lux III TW0J binned LED, but any Lux III or even Lux V will do.
One general rule of thumb is usually, the lower the Vf (forward voltage needed to power the Lux), the less voltage will be needed to power it(generally it is a great thing). Also, Lux III tends to give more focused spot beam, whereas Lux V gives more overall light output but the beam is more flooded.
Shopping list:
--Mag 2C(with serial number beginning with ‘C’, see picture below)
--Lux III star or Emitter
--Nflex (from Georges80’s homepage)
--Heat Sink, (featured is Yaesumofo’s o-sink for Mag C; but you could also get it from Sandwich Shoppe, look for ‘Hotlip C’; more thoughts/details, pls continue to read)
--Small connectors (Optional, for connection between Lux and board)
--0.3mm Copper sheet/battery holder anode plate(I would recommend the copper sheet)
--Few feet of AWG 26 wires
--Three plastic spacers, each has 3mm hole thru it, 8mm outer diameter and 0.5mm thick. Or anything which will resemble these three stack together. If you really, absolutely couldn’t find these, that’s ok; you could do it without.
--Artic Alumina Epoxy (for sticking the Emitter to heatsink, from Sandwich Shoppe)
--Artic Alumina grease (Optional, to fill up gaps between body and heatsink for better heat management)
--Wire connectors (get a whole bunch of em, if you plan on modding more similar mods for the future)
--Hex key 5/64th" inch(1/14, 0.76mm)
(pic: magcnflexs201)
Note: The serial number of this Mag2C begins with C, which has the new switch assembly; as featured in this post
Recommended/necessary tools:
--Soldiering iron, flux and lead.
--Cutters/Strong scissors
--Pliers
--Dremel (with 1-2mm drill bit, small grind disk)
--Vise
Not necessary, but good to have:
Solider extractor
Wire stripper
3V 2AA battery holder (for checking polarity of emitter)
Toothpick (for positioning emitter and AA fill in)
Nail polish (for shorting prevention on electric components)
Electrical tape
Mini Vise (for soldiering)
Section 3 Assembly
To sum up the whole process, most of the work done to the switch assembly here is to serve one purpose--to utilize the Mag2C body to work with the nflex.
There are six wires that will be attached to the nflex, namely the Led+, Led-(which go to the Lux), SWA, SWB(switch A and B, which user will press the modded Mag switch to power on, off…), IN-, IN+(the battery power provided to nflex)
Here we will mod/use Mag switch/button as a momentary switch to the board ( which is originally used for completing a circuit to provide electricity to the bulb), and while doing so, we will dissociate the switch from the power, and find other seperate path/wires for the board. Alrighty, enough mumble jumbo, let’s get our hands dirty!!
(pic: magcnflexs3001)
Unscrew the head assembly, switch rubber cap(just squeeze it, don’t use any sharp object to pop it out) and tailcap from the Mag2C body, and take out the bulb and bulb retaining bulb.
(pic: magcnflexs3002)
Put the Hex key and unlock the bolt from the switch assembly, once after couple of turns, the switch assembly should be able to slide out thru the back of the body tube.
(pic: magcnflexs3003)
(pic: magcnflexs3004)
Now release the metal pedestal for the bulb with the same hex key. And safely store away that metal piece with the spring and caps inside.
(pic: magcnflexs3005)
(pic: magcnflexs3006)
Use a sharp knife/razor blade to slowly separate the two halves of the switch assembly(Note: Do not force this assembly open nor cutting it apart, otherwise you might damage the nib that hold these two pieces together :sick2: ; see the right half of the switch, top left and bottom right with red circle)
(pic: magcnflexs3007)
For our purpose, you won’t need to open and take out all the small pieces(previous picture is enough), but in case of forgetting how it is put together, this is the whole switch assembly dissembled in the order of how they go together.
(pic: magcnflexs3008)
The very first step of our modding, pull out the anode plate/bottom switch plate(positive contact plate, the closest to the tailcap), and cut the contact plate away.
(pic: magcnflexs3009)
Now we will cut a very slight slit(less than 1mm), perpendicular to the original slit where our self-made battery anode plate will go thru. See: Red rectangle
From here on, modders could choose either Option A(battery holder anode plate) or Option B(copper sheet shaped like original Mag battery anode plate) for the self-made battery anode plate. Personally, I like the Option B since it is more secure and closely resemble the original battery plate. :)
Option A
(pic: magcnflexs3010)
Picture shown here are a pair of battery holder positive and negative plate, notice the thin strip of metal of the positive plate had been reshaped into a ‘L’ shape.
(pic: magcnflexs3011)
(pic: magcnflexs3012)
(pic: magcnflexs3013)
See how the Option A plate fit into the slit that we made earlier.
Option B
(pic: magcnflexs3014)
The cut 0.3mm copper sheet shown above is what we will use for option B. Personally, I like this one better and I had decided to use it since it is more secure and snuggly fit like the original Mag plate. Note:Do be sure there is a long strip leading away from the contact for bending later on.
(pic: magcnflexs3015)
This is how the copper plate will be shaped into.
(pic: magcnflexs3016)
(pic: magcnflexs3017)
Option B fitted into the slid we made. Note: a little addition modification might be needed since the strip is a little wider than the slid we made; we might need to remove some material if the strip is too wide to prevent the two halves of switch assembly from closing properly. See the aqua box highlighted in picture s3021m.
(pic: magcnflexs3018)
Another view of option B when enclosed in the switch assembly
(pic: magcnflexs3019)
Unlike Mag D, where there are plenty of room for nflex to sit in. For Mag C, nflex will need to be tilted as much as possible in the tube in order for everything to fit, and some trimming at the board(which shown later) might be necessary. The silver painted parts shown where one will need to cut/grind away for nflex to be fully tilted.
(pic: magcnflexs3020)
The view from above, after some material is taken away. Notice: the switch is facing toward us. Errr….you don’t mix this up, since later on the orientation of the board and the wires will be more optimized for the cramped space.
(pic: magcnflexs3021)
Here is our map of attack plan for leading the wires thru the switch body :cool:
Left half of this picture:
The left most column of red rectangles shown the parts where trimming/cutting are required for the bottom switch plate wire (go either to SWA or SWB later) to lead to the top. (see S3022, brown line)
The middle column of red rectangles shown trimming/cutting area for leading the wire from the self-made anode plate to IN+ of nflex.(see S3023, red line)
Right half of this picture:
Red rectangle shown trimming for bottom switch plate wire to lead away.
Aqua rectangle shown additional trimming if required, for Option B self made anode plate
(pic: magcnflexs3022)
See how the wire is soldiered onto the bottom switch plate, leading away from holes/trimming onto the top.
(pic: magcnflexs3023)
Similar idea for the anode plate wire going up to the top. Note: please take note of how the wire is soldiered onto the anode plate, so the two halves of the switch can be closed together easily without doing too much trimming.(aqua rectangle, see S3021)
(pic: magcnflexs3024)
Our work inside the switch assembly is done, and it is time to close it./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/clap.gif This time, we will put in an addition of three plastic spacers on top of the spring which will prevent the switch from locking. Any o-ring could also achieve the same mean if the dimension is similar to these three spacers stacked together.
If you really couldn’t find the spacers or o-ring, don’t worry about it--you could trim the ‘fins’ off the white plastic rotary ratchet(In pic S3007, the white plastic ratcher to the right of the spring) to prevent it from locking as well. For more details about fin trimming, check out the reference link below for Mag 2D mod.
Trick: whenever you are opening or closing the switch, to prevent all the little pieces falling all over the place, put the hex key thru the switch hole and skewer them all.
Note: don’t forget to put back two golden rings under the spring!!
(pic: magcnflexs3025)
Once closed up, try fully pressing and depressing the switch. It should not be able to ‘click’ and lock; and thus become a momentary switch!
If you had come this far, and had finished all the work while not being bored by this long winded dummy reference guide; congratulation, my friend, you are more than half way done!!!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goodjob.gif
(pic: magcnflexs3026)
Remember the little thin negative contact strip that goes to the back of the original switch? We will cut the strip off and soldier a short wire which lead to nflex IN-. (make sure the bolt is still there)
(pic: magcnflexs3027)
Solider one more wire to the top of the top switch plate. Viola!! All the wires from the switch assembly are set and ready to be soldiered onto nflex!!!
(pic: magcnflexs3028)
Before we soldier any wire onto nflex, let’s try out to see whether the nflex, Lux star and switch will work exactly. Securely connect the two switch wires(from top and bottom switch plate, the two brown wires)to SWA and SWB on nflex. Negative contact strip wire to IN-, Red line from self-made anode plate to IN+; finally, Led+ and Led- to Lux III/V + and – contact respectively.
Afterwards, power on the battery pack and press the switch quickly for turning the lux on and off. Or after it’s on, press and hold to adjust various brightness level.(initial levels of brightness are set to 6 levels and max of 350ma to Lux only. We can tune it up to 1000ma drive level and access all 8 levels when we are done, by reading Geroge’s nflex’s manual) Here, I use a 6V 4AA battery holder with power switch for the experiment.
Caution: if nflex is powered without load(the lux), it might damage the board!! So be very very careful about securing the wires to lux III. :caution:
(pic: magcnflexs3029)
Have fun? ;) Onward with the mod! Next, we make markings onto the board, since we now will use dremel(or fine sand paper) to grind/trim down the length of the nflex. Even after trimming of top of the switch assembly for tilting the board, we might still have to trim the board to allow more room for heat sink to sit on top properly. Dry fit it, and if heat sink will flush/push the switch assembly down the tube, then you know we will need to trim the board. Note: remember to mark on board what hole is for what, before trimming it!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Christo_pull_hair.gif
And if you find it very difficult to slide the o-sink down the tube, do dremel/fine sanding the tube bit by bit to allow a snug fit.
(pic: magcnflexs3030)
Done trimming the board as close to the holes as possible(as shown in picture here), solider the wires leading to the Lux on board(Led+, Led-). I here use a wire connector, instead of directly soldiering the wire onto the lux. Reason is so that I could always change the heat sink with another lux on top for future ease of use. However, I do really advice to get a whole bunch of similar connectors for future swap and mods. Also, note which side of connector is soldiered to the lux or to board, so you could be consistent in all your mods and make swapping easy.
(pic: magcnflexs3031)
(pic: magcnflexs3032)
(picture/script borrowed from my BB NG Lux III mod dummy guide :o De-soldiering the Lux III emitter out of its original 'star--I clamp the Lux III star by using a 'mini vise'and use a tooth pick to move the Led lead contact once the soldier is melted. Next picture shown how the LED lead contacts are cleared off the soldier and the star.
(pic: magcnflexs3033)
Use two large pliers to clamp onto the star, as close to the emitter as possible (not over the LED emitter lead contact), and start bending the 'star' backward. Eventually, the emitter will just fall/pop from its star. Make sure you have tissue paper or an area to 'catch' it when it does pop.
(pic: magcnflexs3034)
Depending how smooth is the back of your emitter, you could file it with some really really fine sand paper or I use a dremel here to help clean out the back of the emitter. If you are using Yaesumofo’s o-sink like me, it is absolutely vital that you clean all the glue residue from the back of emitter/black plastic(use X-acto)-otherwise, it won’t fit properly onto it!!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/duh2.gif
(pic: magcnflexs3035)
Afterwards, use pliers to clamp the lead to the emitter flat. And trim those leads, until you are sure you can comfortably solider wires onto them.
(pic: magcnflexs3036)
Get the o-sink, mixing bar and toothpick ready, then mix evenly/slowly the part A and part B of Arctic Alumina epoxy together. Stir it slowly, otherwise bubble might be formed in the epoxy. Apply just a very, very tiny bit onto the dead center of the Yaesumofo’s o-sink, then place the emitter onto the center. Now, slowly rotate the emitter and you will find the emitter will not sit evenly onto the o-sink until it is ‘locked’ into its center place. Then place the o-sink with the lux in between your two palms, and rotate it while looking straight down onto the lux- to check whether it is centered well. You will have only a few minutes before the epoxy settle.(I advise NOT to use Arctic Alumina grease or Arctic Silver 5 in place of epoxy, this Lux will need to be firmly secured)
Honestly, o-sink is great for this ‘locking’ feature, but I do think it is not necessarily easiest for first timer to use. If anyone does decide to use it, I would advice practicing the ‘locking’ beforehand. I remembered major poo poo when I was making another mod with this o-sink, so Hotlip-c might be easier since it is just centering and check. :)
(pic: magcnflexs3037)
Almost there! While we are waiting for the epoxy to settle, soldier all the wires onto the board. Double check whether you have done the connection correctly. Do keep all the wires short since it will be a tight fit.
(pic: magcnflexs3038)
Dry fitting the switch assembly with nflex and heatsink.
(pic: magcnflexs3039)
Optional: If everything seems to fit well, apply nail polish onto the electronics onboard and corners to prevent shorting if the board touches the wall of the body tube.
(pic: magcnflexs3040)
(pic: magcnflexs3041)
I use a 3V 2AA to check the polarity of the Lux III before soldiering.
S3041 showed how the other half of the wire connector and wire are soldiered onto the lux. There is very limited room for all the wires and connectors, thus the reason for the really short wires with connectors.
(pic: magcnflexs3042)
Optional: Connect the Lux III with nflex, wrap the connection with electric tape to prevent accidental disengaging.
(pic: magcnflexs3043)
Dry fit the whole thing one more time into the tube(not shown), if it fits properly, tighten the hex bolt and fix the switch assembly. Then apply Arctic Alumina grease onto the side of o-sink, before sliding the o-sink into the body for better heat transfer. The O-sink should sit flush on top of the tube. Note: nflex does not require potting, and potting it might actually cause instability to its performance! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
(pic: magcnflexs3044)
(pic: magcnflexs3045)
Finally! Cut down the cam of the reflector, be very careful not to touch the shinny part of the reflector; don’t dermal/sand the cam, since it leaves debris all over the place. Just use a strong scissor or wire cutter to clip it.
Notice in s3045, the opening of the reflector is left untouched(red arrow); just trim the outer cam as close as the reflector as possible.
(pic: magcnflexs3046)
Haha! Tightening the head assembly onto the body and you have one proud mod that you made yourself!! :thumbsup: There should be somewhat an even glow around the reflector when the lux is(or starting to get) in focus.
Oh, oh, one more thing--the 3x123 batteries fit lengthwise into the Mag 2C body, but it may rattle big time--so use cut down magazine/paper towel/foam paper to wrap the batteries before insertion. And don’t forget to tune your nflex for the maximum of 1000ma drive level and all 8 level of brightness by following the nflex manual.
Now, you are ready to have some FUN!!! :rock:
Section 4 Suggestion/ Related links
Some humble Suggestions:
-Read everything from CPF about Mag 2C mod and/or related nflex mod before making it, information never hurts.
-Make a list of all the necessary parts before ordering them, and double check that list, missing parts in middle of a mod is like finding a toilet locked up when you need it.
-Find time. Mistakes are often time made when you are in a rush, think it thru and work it out mentally before executing each step will certainly save you from regret.
-Picture it. For prosperity, and it is great to understand what went right/wrong for improving. Not to mention, you could also contribute it back to CPF!
Related links:
For bin codes info about Lux III or Lux V emitter
Bin Codes Explained from Wayne's site
Idleprocess' Bin code chart
Nflex manual and info
Nflex Info
Nflex manual
nFlex, son of uFlex
Original thread about Nflex!
For accessing the maximum of 1000ma to Led and all 8 levels of brightness, please read the manual.
Various Mag2C mod/nflex Mag2C mod
2CM@g, nflex ,Hotlips-c, TXOK lux 3 (PICS.) Nitefish's mag 2C mod, great pics and where I had picked up the 'oring/spacer' tip! :)
Yet another Mag 3C 3W DD Mod
With DarkZero's step by step pic on how to dissemble C and D swith assembly
Various Mag D mod/nflex Mag D mod
Class 3: TWAKnFlex (lots o' pics)
Note Here LedModman had great pics about how to mod a mag D switch into a momentary switch. If you couldn't find the spacer/oring, here is a simple solution!
Mag2D LuxIII nFlex mod (8 brightness levels). Icarus's mod, again with great pics and info about making mag 2D nflex mod
Advice sought for Mag nFlex or uFlex mod.
A great thread started by sithjedi333, which linked to many useful links and info!
Detailed removal of emitter from star process
A Dummy Reference for making PM6 LuxIII BB NG 1000
Here is another humble mod writeup of mine
Artic Alumina, Artic Alumina epoxy and Hotlip C
Sandwich Shoppe
Yaesumofo’s o-sink
D O-sink sale thread
Very useful soldiering tip:
Quickbeam's tips on soldiering
Thank you for reading, I hoped you would enjoy this little write up and doing this mod! Do feel free to feed back and comment on this post! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Again, my sincerest thank you to all those who had gone before me and show me ‘the way’ for making my mod possible, do consider this my humble tribute to their originality and creativeness. See you next time!! :thumbsup:
(pic: magcnflexs3047)
The End
(Disclaimer: This process or mod is NOT endorsed by another maker of or claim to have affiliation to any feature flashlight/components/tools maker. All modders do understand by modding the parts/flashlights, their had voluntarily void their warranty on the products and do assume all risk involved.) ;)
This is another nflex mod of mine since the Mag 1D(thanks, Modamag!) and 2D(thanks, FM for 8AA to 2D!), I had truly enjoyed reading and making of these mods. And that’s why I have decided to contribute this dummy reference guide for Mag 2C nflex mod, hope it would help dummy like myself and someone would enjoy reading it. :o
A brief thank you note to Georges80 (for making nflex, the soul of this mod(!), and answering my questions), KenHK and Kiu(for your great ideas), Yaesumofo(for o-sinks), Wayne at Sandwich Shoppe(for Arctic Alumina Epoxy, Hotlip-C, AA) and all the talented modders who I had read and learn from on this forum! :bow:
Contents:
Section 1 Before Everything
Section 2 Shopping/recommended tool list
Section 3 Assembly
Section 4 Suggestion/ Related links
Section 1 Before Everything
This is a dummy reference guide for making the Mag 2C Lux III nflex mod(intended to use with 3x123), by no mean it is an ‘official’ guide for making such mod.
The whole process may take a few hours of work (or much much less if you are seasonal modder), I would encourage you to read thru the whole post/thread to understand the process completely and the work required. Hopefully, you will learn from my rights and wrongs and thus pick up a tip or two from this. Also, this process is irreversible, so once you have modded the Mag2C, there is no turning it back to it’s original stage. YMMV. ;)
Each section header is highlighted in different colors, and any important ‘note’ or pointer will be bolded.
Since it is a dummy guide, so I hope to be as detailed as I can, all the pictures are in sequence and numbered with section number(s1, s2…) and sub-section number(001, 002…).
Enjoy!
Simple definitions:
Nflex - a converter board made by our fellow member, Georges80.
AA - Arctic Alumina Epoxy
Emitter - here refers to Luxeon III Led, usually means it has been extracted from original 'star'
Switch plate - the two metal pieces that rest on top of the spring loaded round metal plate in switch assembly. (See S3007, on top and below the big spring)
Bottom switch plate - refers to the switch plate below the big spring, in S3007
Anode plate - unless it is otherwise specified, it should mean the bottom switch plate (also the original anode contact for Mag 2c)
Rotary ratchet - the two white plastic pieces that enable the ‘clicking’ and locking of the switch. As shown in S3007, to the left and right of the big spring.
Section 2 Shopping/recommended tool list
Some thoughts on board, body, lux IIIs:
Nflex
After some good reading for making the Mag body mods, I felt that currently nflex is one of the most versatile and great featured board for my use. Though many CPFers would have already know this, it is a step-down (buck) converter with switching capability, with max of 1A drive level to Lux III and 8 levels of brightness setting. Here is the link to the feature of this board
Choosing the body and color of Mag 2C
My reason for choosing a Mag2C for this nflex mod, besides there are fair amount of write-ups here, is because it is easy to come by, to work with and color of choices is bundle.
When it comes to Mag mod, one of the common dilemma is what kind of battery setting to use, and for Mag 2C, the easiest is the 3x123 which require no boring for the body tube. But from the experience of Mag Ds, different colors do seem to have slightly different inside diameter.
If you intend to use this flashlight very often or in harsh environment, I would strongly recommend you to get Sliver body since the scratches will not be as visible if it occurred.
Lux III Stars or Emitters
In terms of ‘tint’ (for ex, warm white vs. HID blue-ish tint), that’s just a personal thing. If you are not very familiar with the bin code system and tints, I would suggest to check out the beamshots from Review board on this forum, or see as many when there is flashaholic get together to develop a feel for it. For this mod, we will be talking about Lux III TW0J binned LED, but any Lux III or even Lux V will do.
One general rule of thumb is usually, the lower the Vf (forward voltage needed to power the Lux), the less voltage will be needed to power it(generally it is a great thing). Also, Lux III tends to give more focused spot beam, whereas Lux V gives more overall light output but the beam is more flooded.
Shopping list:
--Mag 2C(with serial number beginning with ‘C’, see picture below)
--Lux III star or Emitter
--Nflex (from Georges80’s homepage)
--Heat Sink, (featured is Yaesumofo’s o-sink for Mag C; but you could also get it from Sandwich Shoppe, look for ‘Hotlip C’; more thoughts/details, pls continue to read)
--Small connectors (Optional, for connection between Lux and board)
--0.3mm Copper sheet/battery holder anode plate(I would recommend the copper sheet)
--Few feet of AWG 26 wires
--Three plastic spacers, each has 3mm hole thru it, 8mm outer diameter and 0.5mm thick. Or anything which will resemble these three stack together. If you really, absolutely couldn’t find these, that’s ok; you could do it without.
--Artic Alumina Epoxy (for sticking the Emitter to heatsink, from Sandwich Shoppe)
--Artic Alumina grease (Optional, to fill up gaps between body and heatsink for better heat management)
--Wire connectors (get a whole bunch of em, if you plan on modding more similar mods for the future)
--Hex key 5/64th" inch(1/14, 0.76mm)
(pic: magcnflexs201)
Note: The serial number of this Mag2C begins with C, which has the new switch assembly; as featured in this post
Recommended/necessary tools:
--Soldiering iron, flux and lead.
--Cutters/Strong scissors
--Pliers
--Dremel (with 1-2mm drill bit, small grind disk)
--Vise
Not necessary, but good to have:
Solider extractor
Wire stripper
3V 2AA battery holder (for checking polarity of emitter)
Toothpick (for positioning emitter and AA fill in)
Nail polish (for shorting prevention on electric components)
Electrical tape
Mini Vise (for soldiering)
Section 3 Assembly
To sum up the whole process, most of the work done to the switch assembly here is to serve one purpose--to utilize the Mag2C body to work with the nflex.
There are six wires that will be attached to the nflex, namely the Led+, Led-(which go to the Lux), SWA, SWB(switch A and B, which user will press the modded Mag switch to power on, off…), IN-, IN+(the battery power provided to nflex)
Here we will mod/use Mag switch/button as a momentary switch to the board ( which is originally used for completing a circuit to provide electricity to the bulb), and while doing so, we will dissociate the switch from the power, and find other seperate path/wires for the board. Alrighty, enough mumble jumbo, let’s get our hands dirty!!
(pic: magcnflexs3001)
Unscrew the head assembly, switch rubber cap(just squeeze it, don’t use any sharp object to pop it out) and tailcap from the Mag2C body, and take out the bulb and bulb retaining bulb.
(pic: magcnflexs3002)
Put the Hex key and unlock the bolt from the switch assembly, once after couple of turns, the switch assembly should be able to slide out thru the back of the body tube.
(pic: magcnflexs3003)
(pic: magcnflexs3004)
Now release the metal pedestal for the bulb with the same hex key. And safely store away that metal piece with the spring and caps inside.
(pic: magcnflexs3005)
(pic: magcnflexs3006)
Use a sharp knife/razor blade to slowly separate the two halves of the switch assembly(Note: Do not force this assembly open nor cutting it apart, otherwise you might damage the nib that hold these two pieces together :sick2: ; see the right half of the switch, top left and bottom right with red circle)
(pic: magcnflexs3007)
For our purpose, you won’t need to open and take out all the small pieces(previous picture is enough), but in case of forgetting how it is put together, this is the whole switch assembly dissembled in the order of how they go together.
(pic: magcnflexs3008)
The very first step of our modding, pull out the anode plate/bottom switch plate(positive contact plate, the closest to the tailcap), and cut the contact plate away.
(pic: magcnflexs3009)
Now we will cut a very slight slit(less than 1mm), perpendicular to the original slit where our self-made battery anode plate will go thru. See: Red rectangle
From here on, modders could choose either Option A(battery holder anode plate) or Option B(copper sheet shaped like original Mag battery anode plate) for the self-made battery anode plate. Personally, I like the Option B since it is more secure and closely resemble the original battery plate. :)
Option A
(pic: magcnflexs3010)
Picture shown here are a pair of battery holder positive and negative plate, notice the thin strip of metal of the positive plate had been reshaped into a ‘L’ shape.
(pic: magcnflexs3011)
(pic: magcnflexs3012)
(pic: magcnflexs3013)
See how the Option A plate fit into the slit that we made earlier.
Option B
(pic: magcnflexs3014)
The cut 0.3mm copper sheet shown above is what we will use for option B. Personally, I like this one better and I had decided to use it since it is more secure and snuggly fit like the original Mag plate. Note:Do be sure there is a long strip leading away from the contact for bending later on.
(pic: magcnflexs3015)
This is how the copper plate will be shaped into.
(pic: magcnflexs3016)
(pic: magcnflexs3017)
Option B fitted into the slid we made. Note: a little addition modification might be needed since the strip is a little wider than the slid we made; we might need to remove some material if the strip is too wide to prevent the two halves of switch assembly from closing properly. See the aqua box highlighted in picture s3021m.
(pic: magcnflexs3018)
Another view of option B when enclosed in the switch assembly
(pic: magcnflexs3019)
Unlike Mag D, where there are plenty of room for nflex to sit in. For Mag C, nflex will need to be tilted as much as possible in the tube in order for everything to fit, and some trimming at the board(which shown later) might be necessary. The silver painted parts shown where one will need to cut/grind away for nflex to be fully tilted.
(pic: magcnflexs3020)
The view from above, after some material is taken away. Notice: the switch is facing toward us. Errr….you don’t mix this up, since later on the orientation of the board and the wires will be more optimized for the cramped space.
(pic: magcnflexs3021)
Here is our map of attack plan for leading the wires thru the switch body :cool:
Left half of this picture:
The left most column of red rectangles shown the parts where trimming/cutting are required for the bottom switch plate wire (go either to SWA or SWB later) to lead to the top. (see S3022, brown line)
The middle column of red rectangles shown trimming/cutting area for leading the wire from the self-made anode plate to IN+ of nflex.(see S3023, red line)
Right half of this picture:
Red rectangle shown trimming for bottom switch plate wire to lead away.
Aqua rectangle shown additional trimming if required, for Option B self made anode plate
(pic: magcnflexs3022)
See how the wire is soldiered onto the bottom switch plate, leading away from holes/trimming onto the top.
(pic: magcnflexs3023)
Similar idea for the anode plate wire going up to the top. Note: please take note of how the wire is soldiered onto the anode plate, so the two halves of the switch can be closed together easily without doing too much trimming.(aqua rectangle, see S3021)
(pic: magcnflexs3024)
Our work inside the switch assembly is done, and it is time to close it./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/clap.gif This time, we will put in an addition of three plastic spacers on top of the spring which will prevent the switch from locking. Any o-ring could also achieve the same mean if the dimension is similar to these three spacers stacked together.
If you really couldn’t find the spacers or o-ring, don’t worry about it--you could trim the ‘fins’ off the white plastic rotary ratchet(In pic S3007, the white plastic ratcher to the right of the spring) to prevent it from locking as well. For more details about fin trimming, check out the reference link below for Mag 2D mod.
Trick: whenever you are opening or closing the switch, to prevent all the little pieces falling all over the place, put the hex key thru the switch hole and skewer them all.
Note: don’t forget to put back two golden rings under the spring!!
(pic: magcnflexs3025)
Once closed up, try fully pressing and depressing the switch. It should not be able to ‘click’ and lock; and thus become a momentary switch!
If you had come this far, and had finished all the work while not being bored by this long winded dummy reference guide; congratulation, my friend, you are more than half way done!!!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goodjob.gif
(pic: magcnflexs3026)
Remember the little thin negative contact strip that goes to the back of the original switch? We will cut the strip off and soldier a short wire which lead to nflex IN-. (make sure the bolt is still there)
(pic: magcnflexs3027)
Solider one more wire to the top of the top switch plate. Viola!! All the wires from the switch assembly are set and ready to be soldiered onto nflex!!!
(pic: magcnflexs3028)
Before we soldier any wire onto nflex, let’s try out to see whether the nflex, Lux star and switch will work exactly. Securely connect the two switch wires(from top and bottom switch plate, the two brown wires)to SWA and SWB on nflex. Negative contact strip wire to IN-, Red line from self-made anode plate to IN+; finally, Led+ and Led- to Lux III/V + and – contact respectively.
Afterwards, power on the battery pack and press the switch quickly for turning the lux on and off. Or after it’s on, press and hold to adjust various brightness level.(initial levels of brightness are set to 6 levels and max of 350ma to Lux only. We can tune it up to 1000ma drive level and access all 8 levels when we are done, by reading Geroge’s nflex’s manual) Here, I use a 6V 4AA battery holder with power switch for the experiment.
Caution: if nflex is powered without load(the lux), it might damage the board!! So be very very careful about securing the wires to lux III. :caution:
(pic: magcnflexs3029)
Have fun? ;) Onward with the mod! Next, we make markings onto the board, since we now will use dremel(or fine sand paper) to grind/trim down the length of the nflex. Even after trimming of top of the switch assembly for tilting the board, we might still have to trim the board to allow more room for heat sink to sit on top properly. Dry fit it, and if heat sink will flush/push the switch assembly down the tube, then you know we will need to trim the board. Note: remember to mark on board what hole is for what, before trimming it!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Christo_pull_hair.gif
And if you find it very difficult to slide the o-sink down the tube, do dremel/fine sanding the tube bit by bit to allow a snug fit.
(pic: magcnflexs3030)
Done trimming the board as close to the holes as possible(as shown in picture here), solider the wires leading to the Lux on board(Led+, Led-). I here use a wire connector, instead of directly soldiering the wire onto the lux. Reason is so that I could always change the heat sink with another lux on top for future ease of use. However, I do really advice to get a whole bunch of similar connectors for future swap and mods. Also, note which side of connector is soldiered to the lux or to board, so you could be consistent in all your mods and make swapping easy.
(pic: magcnflexs3031)
(pic: magcnflexs3032)
(picture/script borrowed from my BB NG Lux III mod dummy guide :o De-soldiering the Lux III emitter out of its original 'star--I clamp the Lux III star by using a 'mini vise'and use a tooth pick to move the Led lead contact once the soldier is melted. Next picture shown how the LED lead contacts are cleared off the soldier and the star.
(pic: magcnflexs3033)
Use two large pliers to clamp onto the star, as close to the emitter as possible (not over the LED emitter lead contact), and start bending the 'star' backward. Eventually, the emitter will just fall/pop from its star. Make sure you have tissue paper or an area to 'catch' it when it does pop.
(pic: magcnflexs3034)
Depending how smooth is the back of your emitter, you could file it with some really really fine sand paper or I use a dremel here to help clean out the back of the emitter. If you are using Yaesumofo’s o-sink like me, it is absolutely vital that you clean all the glue residue from the back of emitter/black plastic(use X-acto)-otherwise, it won’t fit properly onto it!!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/duh2.gif
(pic: magcnflexs3035)
Afterwards, use pliers to clamp the lead to the emitter flat. And trim those leads, until you are sure you can comfortably solider wires onto them.
(pic: magcnflexs3036)
Get the o-sink, mixing bar and toothpick ready, then mix evenly/slowly the part A and part B of Arctic Alumina epoxy together. Stir it slowly, otherwise bubble might be formed in the epoxy. Apply just a very, very tiny bit onto the dead center of the Yaesumofo’s o-sink, then place the emitter onto the center. Now, slowly rotate the emitter and you will find the emitter will not sit evenly onto the o-sink until it is ‘locked’ into its center place. Then place the o-sink with the lux in between your two palms, and rotate it while looking straight down onto the lux- to check whether it is centered well. You will have only a few minutes before the epoxy settle.(I advise NOT to use Arctic Alumina grease or Arctic Silver 5 in place of epoxy, this Lux will need to be firmly secured)
Honestly, o-sink is great for this ‘locking’ feature, but I do think it is not necessarily easiest for first timer to use. If anyone does decide to use it, I would advice practicing the ‘locking’ beforehand. I remembered major poo poo when I was making another mod with this o-sink, so Hotlip-c might be easier since it is just centering and check. :)
(pic: magcnflexs3037)
Almost there! While we are waiting for the epoxy to settle, soldier all the wires onto the board. Double check whether you have done the connection correctly. Do keep all the wires short since it will be a tight fit.
(pic: magcnflexs3038)
Dry fitting the switch assembly with nflex and heatsink.
(pic: magcnflexs3039)
Optional: If everything seems to fit well, apply nail polish onto the electronics onboard and corners to prevent shorting if the board touches the wall of the body tube.
(pic: magcnflexs3040)
(pic: magcnflexs3041)
I use a 3V 2AA to check the polarity of the Lux III before soldiering.
S3041 showed how the other half of the wire connector and wire are soldiered onto the lux. There is very limited room for all the wires and connectors, thus the reason for the really short wires with connectors.
(pic: magcnflexs3042)
Optional: Connect the Lux III with nflex, wrap the connection with electric tape to prevent accidental disengaging.
(pic: magcnflexs3043)
Dry fit the whole thing one more time into the tube(not shown), if it fits properly, tighten the hex bolt and fix the switch assembly. Then apply Arctic Alumina grease onto the side of o-sink, before sliding the o-sink into the body for better heat transfer. The O-sink should sit flush on top of the tube. Note: nflex does not require potting, and potting it might actually cause instability to its performance! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
(pic: magcnflexs3044)
(pic: magcnflexs3045)
Finally! Cut down the cam of the reflector, be very careful not to touch the shinny part of the reflector; don’t dermal/sand the cam, since it leaves debris all over the place. Just use a strong scissor or wire cutter to clip it.
Notice in s3045, the opening of the reflector is left untouched(red arrow); just trim the outer cam as close as the reflector as possible.
(pic: magcnflexs3046)
Haha! Tightening the head assembly onto the body and you have one proud mod that you made yourself!! :thumbsup: There should be somewhat an even glow around the reflector when the lux is(or starting to get) in focus.
Oh, oh, one more thing--the 3x123 batteries fit lengthwise into the Mag 2C body, but it may rattle big time--so use cut down magazine/paper towel/foam paper to wrap the batteries before insertion. And don’t forget to tune your nflex for the maximum of 1000ma drive level and all 8 level of brightness by following the nflex manual.
Now, you are ready to have some FUN!!! :rock:
Section 4 Suggestion/ Related links
Some humble Suggestions:
-Read everything from CPF about Mag 2C mod and/or related nflex mod before making it, information never hurts.
-Make a list of all the necessary parts before ordering them, and double check that list, missing parts in middle of a mod is like finding a toilet locked up when you need it.
-Find time. Mistakes are often time made when you are in a rush, think it thru and work it out mentally before executing each step will certainly save you from regret.
-Picture it. For prosperity, and it is great to understand what went right/wrong for improving. Not to mention, you could also contribute it back to CPF!
Related links:
For bin codes info about Lux III or Lux V emitter
Bin Codes Explained from Wayne's site
Idleprocess' Bin code chart
Nflex manual and info
Nflex Info
Nflex manual
nFlex, son of uFlex
Original thread about Nflex!
For accessing the maximum of 1000ma to Led and all 8 levels of brightness, please read the manual.
Various Mag2C mod/nflex Mag2C mod
2CM@g, nflex ,Hotlips-c, TXOK lux 3 (PICS.) Nitefish's mag 2C mod, great pics and where I had picked up the 'oring/spacer' tip! :)
Yet another Mag 3C 3W DD Mod
With DarkZero's step by step pic on how to dissemble C and D swith assembly
Various Mag D mod/nflex Mag D mod
Class 3: TWAKnFlex (lots o' pics)
Note Here LedModman had great pics about how to mod a mag D switch into a momentary switch. If you couldn't find the spacer/oring, here is a simple solution!
Mag2D LuxIII nFlex mod (8 brightness levels). Icarus's mod, again with great pics and info about making mag 2D nflex mod
Advice sought for Mag nFlex or uFlex mod.
A great thread started by sithjedi333, which linked to many useful links and info!
Detailed removal of emitter from star process
A Dummy Reference for making PM6 LuxIII BB NG 1000
Here is another humble mod writeup of mine
Artic Alumina, Artic Alumina epoxy and Hotlip C
Sandwich Shoppe
Yaesumofo’s o-sink
D O-sink sale thread
Very useful soldiering tip:
Quickbeam's tips on soldiering
Thank you for reading, I hoped you would enjoy this little write up and doing this mod! Do feel free to feed back and comment on this post! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Again, my sincerest thank you to all those who had gone before me and show me ‘the way’ for making my mod possible, do consider this my humble tribute to their originality and creativeness. See you next time!! :thumbsup:
(pic: magcnflexs3047)
The End
(Disclaimer: This process or mod is NOT endorsed by another maker of or claim to have affiliation to any feature flashlight/components/tools maker. All modders do understand by modding the parts/flashlights, their had voluntarily void their warranty on the products and do assume all risk involved.) ;)
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