5.11 "tactical"

cland72

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So much for "tactical", huh 5.11? What a bunch of (and piece of) garbage for them not to warranty it.

For the same price point, you can pick up a Surefire G2X Tactical (single mode, 320 lumens) or G2X Pro (dual mode, 320/15 lumens). That's what I would do, were I in your shoes.
 

subwoofer

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But seriously. I have a 5.11 TMT L2 flashlight. It is about 6 months old. It was 0 degrees the other night at work. I dropped the flashlight with my gloves on. The light stopped working.
I took a look at it later that shift. The LED module had two wires loose.
I called 5.11 today. Due to the drop, it is not warrantied, which I dont really care about. What gets me is there are no replacement parts for it. The 5.11 rep said they do not sell the LED piece.

So my question for you is, any ideas where I can get a replacement? Or where can I find out if any aftermarket drop in modules like the p60 will fit?

This is very disappointing. I have the A1, A2 and L2.

My first question is to ask how you know there were loose wires? Did you unscrew the head?

Have you got a photos of this light? Of the cosmetic damage caused by the drop and of where you see the loose wires.
 

skyfire

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i had a similar experience with a different brand light, which cost me $80 and is suppose to be high quality, made in china.
the clicky switch failed on the light, and i couldnt find a replacement from any dealers or the manufacturer, whom never responded to me.
1 simple component rendered an entire flashlight useless. the switch itself, was an odd size. so i couldnt find anything that could easily fit.

nowadays, most the lights i buy are surefires because parts are easily obtainable. either from surefire, other people, or 3rd party makers.
go with a P60 type light, and everything will be easily serviceable on it. not to mention all the options for customization.

another important thing. have a back up light. there have been times that my primary light's batteries die, and i dont have time or hands free to change out the batteries. simply putting away the dead light and pulling out the back up allowed me to continue working in those moments.
 

subalpine

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Always have a backup on me. Gut I expect my primary to work. My arms are poenty long, but my wallet is really small and hard to find. Maybe santa can leave a surefire with my new kevlar.

How are Fenix lights? Some good deals on amazon. I am also looking at the Surefire p60x.
 

subalpine

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Sorry, 6px from Surefire.
Also looking at the Fenix Fenix PD32 ue.
That Fenix seems like a good deal and has some good reviews. But I do loke the interchangable parts idea.
 

RWT1405

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As I remember (don't get old, the memory is the first thing to go!), 5.11 had a similar problem with their knives.
 

cland72

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I'm pretty sure 5.11 anything is next to garbage. They probably outsource most of their production to China or Taiwan. Just like the Smith & Wesson brand knives - every one I've ever seen or used has been junk. They just license out their name for a cut of the profit.
 

Grizzman

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A lot of great recommendations have been made. Malkoff MD2, Elzetta Bravo with standard head, and a 6P with Malkof M61 are all lights you'd be able to hand down to your children.

As Scout said, these are up-gradable as emitter technology improves, and Elzetta ups the ante with multiple tail cap options. I've never owned a Foursevens or Fenix, but they seem to receive positive feedback here.
 

radiopej

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The PD32UE is the first real light I bought. I think it's brilliant. I dropped it out of my 2nd storey window once. It hit the awning after about 2.5 metres and then the grass at another 2 metres and it was perfectly fine. Beautiful tint, plenty bright and my favourite clicky switch.

However, many people will point out that you'll want something that can let you more rapidly change modes. For this, Olight has my favourite user interface. You can access a memorised mode, high and strobe all from the tail cap via 1, 2 or 3 clicks respectively. The M20 even gives instant strobe from off using the mode changing button.

Solarforce make decent hosts and you could get a Malkoff or Nailbender drop in. I've never used Malkoff but they are apparently great.

I have a Nailbender drop in. It uses PWM which annoys me, but he specifically uses it to avoid tint shift, which is very logical. You can pick your emitter, modes and reflector. Best part is you can change it if you don't like it or if any components ever break.
 

SimulatedZero

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So, I don't often give my two cents in threads like these cause everybody knows best, but here's a little info that might help you out in looking.

The first is regarding lumen output, you don't need raw lumens. I say this because you mention looking at the Fenix PD32 UE. That light is almost pure flood. You wouldn't be able to look around a dimly lit loading dock or other security concerns very well. You need high intensity as much as lumen output. That's why Streamlight focused so much on intensity, it creates the contrast to check what's in that shadow 80 ft away when everything isn't nearly as dark. Problem then becomes being tunnel visioned, so there's a balance you have to strike. I have found over the past few years that a light around 20,000 to 24,000 candela is my preference for intensity. Add in a high output around 1000 lumens to see more at one time and you're golden.

A list of good lights in that category are:
- Nitecore SRT7
- Fenix TK22 - 2014
- Eagletac T25C2
- Olight M22 Warrior
- Streamlight DS HL
- Eagletac GX25L2 <---- My personal preference
- Klarus X12

That's a decent starting list to look at. The prices range from low 60's to low 120's there so there's flexibility for a budget too.

The other thing to consider is the nature of your work. The simpler the User Interface, the better. The reason for that is you want to be able to immediately use your light properly under stress. The ultimate in simplicity and function is Surefire. Push the button, it stays on, let go, it turns off. Doesn't get much simpler to be honest. Something like a P2X or P3X Fury would be a good match. For that matter, the 6PX Tactical and G2X Tactical are worthy mentions as well. Not as bright as the other lights listed, but they'll still work.

Now, custom lights have been mentioned. I will say that it doesn't really matter what the outside aluminum shell is as long as the important working parts are high quality, like the switch and the electronics. Solarforce makes a huge variety of good hosts and options, but I wouldn't use their LED modules. Older Surefire lights are great hosts as well, though at a bit of a premium. Depends on how much you want that momentary feature. I would suggest design a host you like, with a forward clicky switch at the very least, and get a McClicky switch replacement and either a Nailbender, Malkoff, or Vinhguyen54 single mode drop-in. (Vinh can build you a very nice drop-in with a dedomed XML2 for decent throw and good output)

All that being said, to me, there are 3 good lights to look at. The Surefire P2X Fury, Eagletac GX25L2, and Klarus X12 (or X11 for a drop in output). All three of those lights are high quality, have a momentary only feature (or in the case of the Klarus, instant access to strobe), and ample light output. The other lights start sacrificing either UI simplicity or quality.

Another worthy mention is the brand new Maglites that are still hard to find like the ML300X (If I remember the name correctly), they can be set up for momentary only and then constant on. Problem is the size and weight.

Tips:

-You don't want a interface all controlled by one tail switch only and you want to lean away from a light that you can't start in Turbo/ High everytime you hit the button.

-An easy way to picture one light vs another when reading specs is light intensity = focus and light output = the spot size. Say you have two lights that measure 20,000 candela, but one is 200 lumens and the other is 1000 lumens. The 200 lumen light is going to be very focused and have a tiny spot to reach that far and the 1000 lumen is going to light up the same distance but a lot more of the surrounding area at the same time. Imagine you take the 20k candela light and start with 1 lumen at that intensity, if you could slowly turn a dial and increase the lumens without changing the intensity, the spot would slowly get bigger and bigger. The opposite works too, if you have 10,000 or less candela and 1000 lumens, it's going to feel like a wall of light. You won't see too terribly far, but you will see everything at once.
Take away: The higher the intensity, the farther you can see. The more light output you have, the more you can see at that distance.


Best of luck
:welcome:
 
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SimulatedZero

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Thanks for the grat input. I have setteled on a solarforce l2t with an LC XPG-R5, single mode. From SP flashlights, shipped $40. Good deal for the tight wallet right now. Seriously helpful forum. I am hooked. I will let you all know how it works out.

Not a bad start at all. That's right around where I started (300 lumen Fenix TK15 with an XPG) when I branched out from what the standard issue around here was. Hopefully one day you'll be able to play around with some of the big boys in the playing field and really get hooked :thumbsup:.

If you want advice on batteries latter on, let us know.
 

StandardBattery

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Good choice to experience component based lights. Your experience with the tailcap/switch though sounds weird for a SolarForce light. I don't have one handy any more, but i'm hoping someone else will chime in
 

skyfire

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Got my Solarforce on Monday. I like SBflashlights CS. Fast and accurate. I like the light so far. Great beam, long throw and not too narrow. Only thing I do not like is the switch threading was trash. Took the light apart when it got here, because that's what I do. It came off with a lot of effort. When I went to put it back on, it took a wrench. So now the switch is stuck on the light body. Which is ok, unless the switch breaks. Still pleased, the light works, the switch is easy to use, and feels solid. Thanks so much for the advice on this topic. Will try out a higher end light body when I have some extra money.

are you talking about the tailcap? doesnt sound right if the tailcap requires a wench to take it off. its usually what threads off when you need to remove the battery.
maybe check the threads in case of cross-threading. maybe clean and re-lube the threads, and check the O-ring.
 

Greenbean

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I try to talk guys here at work into the Elzettas, but everyone has short arms and can't reach their wallet...

That is hilarious and so so true! You can't go wrong with a Surefire, Malkoff or Elzetta, I always seem to go for my Surefire Fury P2X here lately, however my "Murse" always always has my Surefire E2D in it. I have recently purchase two Elzetta lights, and am looking forward to working with them.

I have built a few hosts from Solarforce bodies. A decent start and hopefully you'll get the tail cap issue resolved.

That said I am about to graduate BLET and hopefully start working as a sworn LEO. We were issued "Duty Gear" but had to provide our own light, hehehe! That's like saying Sick-Em to a trained guard dog and unleashing the hound on a perp wearing a T-bone, Some nights I would show up with my Stinger HL, other nights my Z2 with Malkoff M61 in it. But my go to configuration and seemed to be the class favorite was my Blackhawk holster and Malkoff MD2 with high/low ring. I've always loved it since I saw a member here post a pic of his rig years ago and now I know why. It's gear that works and does it on CR123 cells or an 18650 if needed.

That said I pissed the s?$t out of some fellow students when we learned patrol techniques. They thought I had a normal old Incan Mag-Charger under my arm that night and nope! Malkoff equipped XM-L2 blinded them like crazy as you walk up to the drivers side, lol...

Honestly the only thing that made me read about the 5.11 Tactical lights is that they sell the belt clip to mount the lights to your belt. That's a great idea but honestly the lights are very poor quality when compared to what's out there. Especially when you get lifetime warranties and the ability to change what "you" need to make the light work better for your purpose/job.

So as class is coming to an end I have had to loan out two lights two nights in a row as the entire class knows who to come to for light info. Lol...And I got to blow the mind of a firearms instructor when I came to the line and had a bored 9P with a Cree MT-G2, I was asked to use a less bright light because I was distracting the shooters to my left and right, You learn to love moments like that!

Enjoy your time and ask questions if needed, Search is your friend, lol...
 
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Greenbean

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Forgot to say welcome bro!

One more thing, if you have to use your light outside in very cold conditions and transition to indoor and such with and without gloves take a look at the Surefire Nitrolon body lights, polymer plastic types and don't feel like a fricken ice cube and such. When we go camping in the winter I resort to my G2 Surefires as they are easier on the teeth, I know I know I shouldn't but sometimes you just put the light in your mouth and complete the task!
 

Greenbean

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This is the pic posted by ToNIX back on 08-19-2010 that had me purchase a Blackhawk Mud-U-Lok to hold my Malkoff MD2 or MD3. Love this set up!

1417297603518_zpshtsarhyp.jpg
 

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