HDS Systems EDC # 18

[the.Mtn.Man]

Is there an easy primer of the various UI for clicky, executive, and tactical? I was positive I wanted a 170 Nichia rotary but this rotary is really not like rotaries I'm used to (sunwayman and jetbeam). Now I'm thinking a 170 clicky may best for me. I only use 2 levels really. One for adding light to a specimen under overhead fluorescent light to show color and shaded areas. The other as bright as possible. I had in mind to do that by rotating the wheel before turning on light as I do with tcr2 but it sounds like it doesn't really work that way with electronic clicky in which long presses or series of clicks can cause rotary setting to be ignored.

The dial is simply one of the available presets. The default setting is that a single click from off will allow you to adjust brightness by turning the dial (you can also set the level before turning the light on). The other default setting available from off is maximum brightness which is accessed with a double click where you hold the second click. When the light is on, you can change modes with a double-click, triple-click, or click and hold.

So, from off:
-Single click: Preset B (Default dial)
-Double click hold: Preset A (Default maximum brightness)

When the light is on:
-Single click: Turn the light off
-Double click: Toggle between preset B and preset C (default medium brightness); if you're in preset A or D, a double click will return to either B or C, depending on which was last used
-Triple click: Preset D (Default strobe)
-Double click hold: Preset A

From any preset, pressing and holding the switch will give you preset A for as long as you hold the switch. When released, it will return to the previous brightness setting.

It sounds complicated, but it's actually very simple in practice. If you can use a computer mouse then you can use an HDS.

 

[JohnSmith]

18650 tubes

ME WANTEE

LETS MAKE THAT HAPPEN

 

[ForrestChump]

18650 tubes

ME WANTEE

LETS MAKE THAT HAPPEN

Good things come to those who wait.....

I think we are coming up on AA & 18650 but have to hang out a little longer.... My best guess would be 90 Days or possibly less.

 

[ForrestChump]

As I've said before, when you drop an HDS, you check the floor for damage and put the light back in your pocket.

That said, my Rotary does have a small chip in the tail where my daughter dropped it on a rough stone floor. However, the anodizing around the chip has not flaked off one bit, and the bare spot is the same size as it was two-years ago.

The Cerakote on my HDS has proved more durable than another major USA flashlight companies - "Type III Military Anodizing"

Good thing it says "Military" otherwise I might have missed how tuff it is....

 

[kaichu dento]

Oh man, just imagine an aspheric HDS !

Henry, if you build it they will come

I'd be all over one for sure..

I wonder how practical it would be to attempt an aspheric attachment so that you wouldn't need to carry two lights. While I didn't really find much usefulness in the aspheric emitter on my Tri-V, it is nice to have it available when needed.

 

[FroggyTaco]

I wonder how practical it would be to attempt an aspheric attachment so that you wouldn't need to carry two lights. While I didn't really find much usefulness in the aspheric emitter on my Tri-V, it is nice to have it available when needed.

What a great idea. I wonder how hard that would be to implement even if it was a stand alone model?

 

[Gadgetman7]

I really want the AA tube. I have a lot of Eneloop Pros for radio use. It'd be great to only need one type of battery.

 

[archimedes]

I wonder how practical it would be to attempt an aspheric attachment so that you wouldn't need to carry two lights....

I have a NovaTac mod with a KL1 optic (milky SuperNOVA) and the beam throw is indeed excellent.

 

[ForrestChump]

AA


It's a commin, I got HDS faith!

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

If you mean 2xAA then it is certainly coming.

 

[Maxbelg]

Just finished modding my Ti Ra Clicky with a Nichia 219A High CRI LED (removed an XP-E2). With my skill set it was a tough mod and I was getting a bit nervous but I'm very happy with the result. The LED is well-centered and the beam is just perfect: no rings or imperfections at all, as a matter of fact it has the nicest beam shape of all my lights! The ring around the center is only visible on the pic and not in real life. I guesstimate about 170 Lumen.

Even though I won't be buying a Ti HDS Rotary if they sell at +-1000 USD I still hope they are made: Maybe I can get a second-hand one down the line like with the Ti Ra Clicky.

 

[Trip Miller]

Don't ever do that again sir!

I got this light back from overseas yesterday! I forgot how much I like it...

 

[KDM]

Nice Maxbelg! What is your light/clip coated with?

 

[Tixx]

The Cerakote on my HDS has proved more durable than my other USA - "Type III Military Anodizing"

Good thing it says "Military" otherwise I might have missed how tuff it is....

HDS explained in their group buy threads that Cerakote would be less durable than their Anodizing.

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

HDS explained in their group buy threads that Cerakote would be less durable than their Anodizing.

I'm not HDS, I'm just good friends with Henry and so I get a lot of inside info.
When HDS lights are Cerakoted, there is still HA under the Cerakote. It is bead blasted and chemically treated, but there is still HA under it.

 

[Maxbelg]

Nice Maxbelg! What is your light/clip coated with?

It's Titanium coated with nothing as far as I know. The clip is an EDC Titanium clip from UniqueTitanium.

 

[ForrestChump]

HDS explained in their group buy threads that Cerakote would be less durable than their Anodizing.

I'm not HDS, I'm just good friends with Henry and so I get a lot of inside info.
When HDS lights are Cerakoted, there is still HA under the Cerakote. It is bead blasted and chemically treated, but there is still HA under it.

Correct & Correct.

To clarify: In my experience my HDS Cerakote exceeds the durability of another USA manufacturer "Military Type lll" anodizing. I've carried the light 16 hours a day since shot show. No embellishment. I have yet to nick it. I open another popular USA light manufactures light and a speck of ANO is missing within 1/2 hour. Every. Time. Both advertise the same anodizing. HDS Cerakote has proved superior and their anodizing alone is in a different galaxy from what I've experienced first hand.

I think Henry may source his ano and cerakote sauce from UFO crash sites......

 

[Tixx]

I'm not HDS, I'm just good friends with Henry and so I get a lot of inside info.
When HDS lights are Cerakoted, there is still HA under the Cerakote. It is bead blasted and chemically treated, but there is still HA under it.

OH, OK. So it what I said true or had I misunderstood?

 

[ForrestChump]

OH, OK. So it what I said true or had I misunderstood?

Yes the Cerakote on HDS is less durable than HDS ano. There is also ano under the Cerakote.

It's OK thought, my names Forrest and I do that all the time, type to talk is hard sometimes.

Would you like a chocolate?

We are all clear now. I have also clarified my statement - OTHER manufactures Sauce is weaksauce compared to HDS sauce.

 

[Rossymeister]

Does anyone have any 325 white wall beamshots?

Just ordered one from the hds website and I am curious if it has any anomalies in the beam pattern.