i have a xeno e03 i love it. i want a comparable light floody like the xeno. a few modes, probably less then 50bucks but cheaper the better. i was looking at the eagle tac d25 clicky i would prefer cheaper though and probably 3 modes, also has to be a clicky.
1 aa light wanted
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TedTheLed
Flashlight Enthusiast
who says? I prefer warm over cool light, that one is 6300k, that's like yucky cold bluecolor- distorting light to me. Give me 3400- 4300k any day.
InquisitiveInquirer
Enlightened
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Try a crelant v11a. It's pretty similar to the xeno e03, but it has a forward clicky and has a pocket clip. SS bezel too.
I have been carrying the SC52 for the last week as my Floody EDC and the LD12 as the Throwy one.
They are both really amazing for what they do and so far they seem to complement each other perfectly for me.
Yesterday I was installing security cameras in a residence and in the attic the SC52 flood was so wide it blocked my distance vision a little and I couldn't find wires laying in deep insulation. The LD12 is perfect for this even at the lowest level as it cuts a narrow beam toward the target without spilling the near field where I was with light.
Later when in a closet connecting everything the LD12 throws too tight a beam for me to take in the whole surrounding close to me and the gear so I used the SC52 close in and it worked well for that.
No one light will always be the best.
Its funny bit when working in a rack lately I have been using a Preon1 stuck in my mouth when I don't have a headlight with me and it is perfect for that and much easier to "bite" than the Mag AA I used to use for that.
They are both really amazing for what they do and so far they seem to complement each other perfectly for me.
Yesterday I was installing security cameras in a residence and in the attic the SC52 flood was so wide it blocked my distance vision a little and I couldn't find wires laying in deep insulation. The LD12 is perfect for this even at the lowest level as it cuts a narrow beam toward the target without spilling the near field where I was with light.
Later when in a closet connecting everything the LD12 throws too tight a beam for me to take in the whole surrounding close to me and the gear so I used the SC52 close in and it worked well for that.
No one light will always be the best.
Its funny bit when working in a rack lately I have been using a Preon1 stuck in my mouth when I don't have a headlight with me and it is perfect for that and much easier to "bite" than the Mag AA I used to use for that.
I dont think the jetbeam ba10 is that tight of a beam, I have a pa20 and it looks to be the same size head and reflector and led, the pa20 is a great light. I dont own that many flashlights at all, but i do like the jetbeam pa20 alot and the ba10 is probably very similar. Only bad thing is its not designed or able to handle lithium.
the crelant light mentioned in this thread looks good to me
the crelant light mentioned in this thread looks good to me
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If you want floody, you're going to have to focus on XM-L lights, so that might eliminate lots of choices. Single AA lights don't really have the power to drive an XM-L into where it can really shine, so most manufacturers don't use them in single AA form.
FYI, I'd stay away from Crelant. They use PWM instead of current regulated and the efficiency isn't that good. I had one and was fairly disappointed.
FYI, I'd stay away from Crelant. They use PWM instead of current regulated and the efficiency isn't that good. I had one and was fairly disappointed.
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Ya, the XM-L die is wider and thus the beam profile wider. Put this with an orange peel (OP) reflector and you have a pretty floody light. That is exactly what the Xeno E03 is. I think what you are after would be my preference in single AA also. After all I don't see the point of having a thrower in a single AA when you can't get much over 120 lumens out of one anyhow.
American, you mentioned you want a tail cap clicky switch. They are favorites of mine also. But I kind of don't like the reverse clicky format such as the Xeno or the Eagletac D25's. I tolerate the Xeno because I can't find a 1AA light that inexpensive with XML.
The Jetbeam PA10 has an XM-L and it had so much potential. It was the most efficient single AA light I have tested to date but a couple of things really took away from its performance. One was having to cycle through the stobe and SOS before starting over at low again. The other is that it would not keep memory if you were in the tactical mode......you're inadvertently cycling through the other modes that you thought you had locked in with the "memory" feature.
The Fenix LD12 would be ideal if it had an XM-L and an OP reflector. The Zebralight SC52 would work if you're willing to pony up some more cash.
American, you mentioned you want a tail cap clicky switch. They are favorites of mine also. But I kind of don't like the reverse clicky format such as the Xeno or the Eagletac D25's. I tolerate the Xeno because I can't find a 1AA light that inexpensive with XML.
The Jetbeam PA10 has an XM-L and it had so much potential. It was the most efficient single AA light I have tested to date but a couple of things really took away from its performance. One was having to cycle through the stobe and SOS before starting over at low again. The other is that it would not keep memory if you were in the tactical mode......you're inadvertently cycling through the other modes that you thought you had locked in with the "memory" feature.
The Fenix LD12 would be ideal if it had an XM-L and an OP reflector. The Zebralight SC52 would work if you're willing to pony up some more cash.
There is a rating system (or bin code) that goes along with an LED which tells color tint and luminous efficiency......among other things. The u2 luminous efficiency is the top for the XM-L. That is 300 lumens at 700mA and 25 deg C. While the T6 is 280 lumens. A U2 LED will cost more than a T6. Also higher flux LEDs tend to be in the cool white area than in the neutral or warm white..........just the nature of the beast. It's kind of like manufacturing CPU's for speed capability. A certain group of them are made with the same process but how they actually turn out isn't known until testing. I'm not exactly sure but I think that's sort of what happens with LED's........thus the categorize them based on how they turned out. Thus you tend to pay a premium price for the neutral tints. Someone may chime in if I'm wrong.
Also I once read that its the layer of phosphorus on the LED which shifts the tint from cool white to more neutral. Thus thicker phosphorus to get a more warm or neutral tint causes more shading and a lowered output. My favorite tint color is between 5000 and 6000k. But you can't always have what you want in these things and have to settle for what the light manufacturers are selling. 6200k to 6600k is the most popular area for cool white LED's. That tends to be where you get the best balance of maximum output and yet still have it a white LED. And they are OK. You can only notice a slight bluish tint if comparing to one that is lower color temperature on a white wall.
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between a zbralight sc52 and a eagle tac d25a clicky ti with xml what shoulld i pick? ive heard the zl have alota of durability problems i do like the battery indicator andother things about it but its kinda ugly to me. the eagletac i know makes great light ive had a p100 for 2 years, and i kinda want a ti light
Can't speak of Zebralight, but I have a D25A2 Clicky, great build quality, very solid and Eagtac have a great warranty program it seems. (Throw/Flood is not that great but its bright for close combat kind of distances, rooms, woods, narrow trails)
I have the cool white, you can see the yellow more when shining at darker objects (like concrete) but it's more of a light yellow so not to bad, you can mainly see it when shining at things at closer range, when a bit further away there is less yellow to my eyes, and also on lighter objects I can barely see the yellow.
I checked it out on low and medium as well for (As the A2 Clicky is more powerful than the ti) Not sure if it's a fair representation though as I don't know how the two lights compare.
I checked it out on low and medium as well for (As the A2 Clicky is more powerful than the ti) Not sure if it's a fair representation though as I don't know how the two lights compare.
