500 Lumen - AAA Flashlight (photos) - Work In Progress - Part 2

[maskman]

I've been using #39 for about two weeks now with mixed success. At first both alkaline and lion cells worked well with merely some inconsistencies with the UI. Then I noted the nukes would not hold level four for more than a split second. Thought it was a discharged cell---charged it up with no improvement then it got hot and the cell got stuck in the tube.

next the lion 10440 trustfire protected cells stopped working consistently and I gave up using them.

Now the only light/cell combination that I have any faith in is an alkaline AAA

I've been reading about others changing the spring for a stiffer one --- perhaps if I can did one up i'll give it a try

I'm open to suggestions

im not complaining just trying to give you some feedback on the X version

Hi Guy,

I used the included batteries. Seemed to work fine for a day. So the one battery is dead and so is the light. A regular AAA does not work it now.

I experienced a similar issue as you so let me share what the fix was for my Torp. On the threaded end of the head you see the positive post. Surrounding the positive post is a black synthetic disk that threads into the head. I'm not certain, but it appears the disk is multi-function with the most important function being to protect the driver below it. You will notice two small holes in the disk on each side of the positive post. The disk on my Torp had loosened, probably from all the battery changes I've put it through. You can insert a round tooth pick with the point cut off, insert toothpick into one of the holes on the disk and tighten the disk until it seats. You could use a metal dental pick, but remember that the engine and electronic components are directly below the disk. With the disk seated my Torp functioned just as well as the first time out.

A word of caution, I wouldn't recommend removing the disk from the head. The synthetic disk is made from a much softer material than the aluminum head and the threads are very fine (small). It would be extremely easy to cross thread the disk while re-installing it. That would probably create one large can of worms. I hope this works for you as it did for me.

http://i62.tinypic.com/25jfrwn.jpg
For some unknown reason the insert photo tool isn't working for me today.

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

i just ran my X (SN 068) for 5 hours on the lowest output with a nearly fully charged nuke. it shut itself off after 5 hours. what do you think?

Hi sweet17,
Thanks for the feedback.
It would be nice to improve the efficiency (eg. the 3mode HF/HF-R from memory will run for at least 8~9hrs on low) but there is some additional overhead for the electronics in the Torpedo.

Just a quick note to say that I have also noticed that using the dots solves some of the UI quirks on my Window 2 X. Detents would make a world of difference when trying to locate them at night lol

Thanks clg0159,
Glad that helps a little with X.
I'm hoping to eliminate the need for that in the production version.
I know it has to be possible!! Just got work out the way

While using the dots helps I want my flashlight to be an extension of me. I don't want to have to think about it or look at it. I don't mind a complex UI either because once I get used to a good UI it becomes second nature - that's just something that is important to me. I've done catch and release on plenty of lights only because I knew immediately the UI wouldn't work for me.

The X UI is like 95% there. It just needs that extra 5%.

Thanks ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond,
Have to say I agree.
When I use a flashlight, Ideally I want to focus on the task at hand, not on the UI :thumbsup

Picked up mine today as predicted

Not enough can be said about the amazing packaging and the quality of it. The tube is a little longer and more slender than I visualized it, which changes nothing to how awesome it is (well, maybe it makes it a little more awesome...) Opening the torpedo packaging really felt like I was going to find a nuclear core inside and it isn't too far from the truth. The nukes are cleverly inside the packaging head, just like an actual warhead, with the actual torpedo parts in the center,

The part that touched me the most was the included post card and the fact that everyone's name form the thread is printed on the back of the calendar! So cool... It really makes me feel I am a part of the Torpedo team!

The Torpedo itself is exactly what i had imagined and the control ring is just the perfect width, although I think the 2 knurling rings on it should be closer together to help finger grip.

The sexy red ring at the base of the head and for the bezel ring is, well... sexy, but also classy at the same time. I love it!

I started by trying a 10250 nuke in it, but nothing happened and is soon felt warm to the touch, as some other users have experienced, so I immediately removed the head and tried a AAA NiMh battery.
I only got 2 modes to work at first (the 2 middle modes), so I removed and reinstalled the battery and finally got all 4 modes. I did experience some quirkiness like going from a higher mode to a lower mode while rotating in the same direction from off to on, but that was solved by stopping on one of the dots. Yes, dotS... there are 2 dots on the body and one on the ring on mine and stopping the ring dot in line with either body (head) dots before going for the next mode or reversing works just fine. I gotta say that's BRIGHT for AAA!!

Then I got curious about the short tube and 10250 I left on the side. The battery wasn't coming out like it should, so I figured I too had some slight shredding happening on the shrink tubing and, sure enough, a tiny bit of the shrink was caught on the spring, but nothing serious and the side of the battery is the same pole as the back anyways, so I wasn't worried one bit. I did have a look at the spring: I believe the end of it is not small enough (not tightly wound enough on the battery side), which could explain why it can catch in the battery shrink tubing, but there is also another possibility that could account for the catching; comparing it with a spring from an E01, the spring is more tightly wound o most of the length on the E01 and it is also a little thicker and firmer. Perhaps some of the spring winding somewhere midway down caught on the shrink, not the very end. Anyways, a better spring is definitely a must, but that should be very easy to fix.

Testing my 10250 nuke after that showed that it had discharged to 3.92 volts, while it should have been over 4.1. Something shorted in there. I decided I should try again, with the magnet spacer, but still nothing and the body became warm again after less than a minute. Now neither 10250 and AAA can make my torp work... I'm definitely kicking myself for trying twice with the 10250 I figured maybe it is related to that spring not being able to get enough current or voltage through, so I used my Cu HF body with the switch set on direct mode, but still no go...

I have not been able to source some 10440's on time, so last tests have been with the AAA body and battery and nothing comes on, while the head becomes warm after about 30 seconds, so I stopped trying for now and will see what comes to mind after a good night's sleep, but it definitely seems like something in the circuit shorted out. Other than that, this is a great flashlight! (or does it convert to the flashdark with a special ring code? )

Hi Cataract,

Thanks for the feedback and congrats on your package :thumbsup:
Hey, the flashdark is still supposed to be a secret!

So sorry about the short lived flash "light". Let me know if it comes back to life, if not will add you to my list of flashdarks that need a new head.

Very much appreciate your kind feedback, even on the flashdark.

Thanks for the point about knurling on the control ring, looks like its also an increasingly popular suggestion.
I have to admit that each post I find with a Torpedo that died so suddenly is somewhat like a whack to the heart/head.
After all this time... it's disappointing to me to disappoint you all in such a way.
Working on it though so please hang in there and thank you so much for being an X'er :twothumbs

>> It really makes me feel I am a part of the Torpedo team!
Hell yes!! Of course you are.
In fact, I'm working on a Unicorn stamp for one of my next postcards...
even these have secret coding on them but even after several months its not been discovered yet.

Guy,
no need to post the orings. i just need a size and i can source some. it's not worth your time or postage for something i can easily pick up here. Otherwise i will be forced to not let you know these things and try to fix them on my own to keep you from sending them

since you have a 3d printer (i get mine hopefully in time for my birthday in march pending shipping from malaysia) I was going to suggest a "fix" to the "mark of the torp" which would also use the existing keyring hole and create a more pocketable experience.
if i have time I'll model it up, but the design would add a top ring that covers the points, uses the center hole (with a pin) to lock in place, and leaves two corners open to allow use with a keyring and tailstanding.

once i get a chance i will see if i can do the model and post it.

Hi cnlson,

Thanks for sending the design over and I'll aim to print that over the weekend and post a photo here
O-rings,
I believe its 8mm (outer diameter) , 1mm thick (6mm inner diameter).
If we end up adjusting the tail, I might just make a Torpedo X branding iron as an accessory

Haha, it seems we may both have flashdarks Cataract. :hahaha:

Hi nbp,

I have more than a few flashdarks
Sorry about your too as I know you were expecting a flash-light.

I just compared with the HF, and the flashdark does need some improvement in output

Have you tried the alternative spectralyzer glasses?
possibly flash it at Uni and see if he reacts

Hey guy's, mine never got hot, that I know of, anyway. But, it did seem to die on me. For some reason, I decided I didn't think the magnet was "working" any longer. I pulled out a dime sized neodymium magnet I had around and swiped it around the control ring and bingo. It seems the magnet is either just too weak or somehow moving. I now have the spacer magnet shrink tubed on my control ring and it functions again.

I also had the same spring problem. Mine actually went a step further and eventually burned, as in like a fuse. Found pieces in the bottom of the tube. Replaced it with another, beefier spring and no problems since.

Just a couple thoughts... Hope they help!

Th8tredude

Thanks Th8tredude,

Yes, that is a big help.
Actually I'd love to see a pic of your custom Torpedo with the shrink tube if you have a chance to take one.

Just tried with a neodymium magnet, strong enough that it sticks to the ring's magnet and still nothing and the head still gets warm (never got the thing hot as I didn't wait for that to happen). I'm still keeping the theory of spring problem open, but I wasn't able to pull it out so far as it seems to have a pretty good grip on the bottom of the tube; it even looks like it fits in a groove on the sides, but it's hard to tell at this size. I'll bring it at work tomorrow and see if we have a boroscope head that can get a good look inside (I knew I had something I wanted to look at with it!). The spring is really clean, though. I'll also grab some of the real electronics Q-tips to give it a real clean.

Thanks for sharing! :twothumbs:
I'll definitely

If nothing else, I know you probably have the cleanest Torpedo X on the planet :bow:

Yeah, the spring catches tight. I mangled one charred spring up trying to pull it out with a paperclip. Had to put the one in from the other body. Not a big deal though since it's not functioning anyways, but the spring seems to be at least partly the culprit in some of the issues.

Looks like it is.
I'm wondering if it causes a short-ish kind of issue, which causes a surge in the 10250, which then blows out one of the mosfets on the board. That would truly suck (pardon za french).... just thinking that a spring would destroy it!

Tgwnn

p.s. almost caught up!

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

X073 landed today! top notch packaging all the way...

I tested first that a nuke lit it up, and it did, but since everyone else had been testing stock functions, I thought I'd go the route of lego testing.

I did stretch the long body spring, and curl in the small end for a smaller contact point to avoid the pitfalls a few other have had with the spring.

While my 2 copper HF parts all interchange quite easily, the 10440 torp body did not want to thread onto one of the 10440 HF bodies. The torp 10250 body went on fine though. I finally got the torp 10440 body to thread onto the other CU HF 10440 body, but it wasn't smooth, and had to be forced a bit, and there was a thin curl of AL by the torp body threads when I pulled them apart. it looked like I had run a tap into the body. it still fit on the torp head fine though.

so I tried a few different configurations. the longer ones I ran 2 AAA in for 3.0 volts. bottom 2 modes worked fine. 3rd level would last a half second then drop down.

I now have it in stock short body config with a nuke, as a pocket carry light. in high, it gets hot plenty fast, and I've had 2 occasions, where I cannot get it to start decreasing level, but when I put a little bit of pull pressure (towards the tail) on the ring while turning, it seemed to start working again. now this may have been because I had a momentary pause in the right location (aligned dots) but since it was getting hot, I wasn't paying attention to it. It does seem to be working fine now though.

I don't find the tail fins too sharp, but they are a stark contrast in feel to the rest of the torp.

the 10440 body seems to fit better with the o-ring. the 10250 body kept squishing it out if I went tight. by pulling the o-ring more towards the threads, I did get the short body to not squish it everytime, but it still occasionally did.

Hi mcbrat,

Awesome pics, and thank you for the feedback :twothumbs

I might have to try 3x AAA using 3x HF bodies and see if I can get a good high.
That will make for a total Torpedo Wand....
Perhaps the "Long Range Torpedo".

In the very first HF batch, way way back, it seems there were a handfull of copper 10440 bodies that may not have fit perfectly.
I had 2 reports of that and found one myself.
My usual way to fix them is to screw them onto a Ti 10440 body, on then off several times.
The Ti is tough enough that it will correct the copper threading and teach it the HF code without suffering any damage.

Nice pictures, mcbrat!

Now, Guy... I think the Torpedo would look great in copper, no?

jonwkng +1

My Torpedo has never gotten hot like others on here, but after running a 10440 for a couple of days, I then went back to the 10250 tube and the battery rattled and was loose. It seems the 10440 must have pushed the driver up into the head just a hair. I tried the small magnet Guy enclosed in the package but it still wouldn't make contact so instead of trying to stretch or replace the tube spring, I just slipped a heavier duty spring over the top of the spring down in the tube and it works fine. I wonder if it would hurt anything if I just put a magnet on the - end of the 10250?

Rebel Bayou

p.s. The HF o-rings work fine on the Torpedo.

Hi rebelbayou,

Thanks for reporting back.
I'm wondering if the multiple re-install of drivers may have loosened the threading of the black cover that protects the driver at the bottom of the head. Early today I had a mail with a similar report (so its 2 so far including yours).
A magnet on the end of the 10250 should be fine.

Hi Guy,

I used the included batteries. Seemed to work fine for a day. So the one battery is dead and so is the light. A regular AAA does not work it now.

Hi Tixx,

Thanks very much for sharing.
Adding you to the flashdark list and I'm very sorry about that, especially after your super mission to intercept and rendezvous with the Torpedo X.
I'll tally up the flashdark list tomorrow so I can keep an exact count.

Finally the X044 arrived in Portugal !

Havent had much time with it yet , tested first with a eneloop and worked fine. Then tested with the nuke and it did not go to the higher modes.
When I arrived at home tested it with a efest and it runs perfect. Havent figure out yet the UI... but when I get to high its amazing bright for its size.
I have a lot of flashlights , some moded ones and even a 900lumens pocket rocket and still this tiny thing amazed me!

Will leave more feedback as I use it , I did not need to use any spacer or do anything out of the ordinary to run it.

Guy : The card with your writing its the kind of detail I wasnt expecting and really made my day! It makes me feel like there is still amazing people around this world that make everything worthwhile!

Hi Art,

Thanks very much for posting and your feedback :thumbsup:
I'm both glad and relieved that your Torpedo X seems to be running perfectly (and brightly too).
My pleasure on the card (well on everything actually).
With the world almost entirely made up of bits n bytes these days (aka digital), I like to take a few moments to thank people the old fashioned way It also helps reassure people that I'm not a robot

I've been using #39 for about two weeks now with mixed success. At first both alkaline and lion cells worked well with merely some inconsistencies with the UI. Then I noted the nukes would not hold level four for more than a split second. Thought it was a discharged cell---charged it up with no improvement then it got hot and the cell got stuck in the tube.

next the lion 10440 trustfire protected cells stopped working consistently and I gave up using them.

Now the only light/cell combination that I have any faith in is an alkaline AAA

I've been reading about others changing the spring for a stiffer one --- perhaps if I can did one up i'll give it a try

I'm open to suggestions

im not complaining just trying to give you some feedback on the X version

Hi walterr839,

Thanks so much for the ongoing feedback and of course I'm glad you shared it.
Whilst it seems a thicker spring is somewhat of an elixir for some Torpedo Xs its not a 100% certainty so if the li-ions were playing up, changing the spring is a good thing but you might want to stick with 1.5V AAA until a production head is on the horizon, just in case.

Just a quick idea for interface improvement:

- I did like the idea to turn the ring left 2 full turns to lock out, then 2 full turns right to unlock and that modes would only go up turning right
- The propeller could serve as a switch for the lockout, eliminating standby drain and giving the propeller more function (I like the way it tail stands and I don't really find them all that sharp, but a little roundness on the outside corners couldn't hurt)

Hi Cataract,

Thanks for the suggestions.
I especially like the propeller lock out idea :twothumbs

Just noticed this thread..... Are they still for sale?

Hi Doug,

Welcome and thanks for posting.
The current batch are the eXperimental beta version with the production version most likely a good few months away.

Tgwnn

 

[mcbrat]

Hi mcbrat,

Awesome pics, and thank you for the feedback :twothumbs

I might have to try 3x AAA using 3x HF bodies and see if I can get a good high.
That will make for a total Torpedo Wand....
Perhaps the "Long Range Torpedo".

In the very first HF batch, way way back, it seems there were a handfull of copper 10440 bodies that may not have fit perfectly.
I had 2 reports of that and found one myself.
My usual way to fix them is to screw them onto a Ti 10440 body, on then off several times.
The Ti is tough enough that it will correct the copper threading and teach it the HF code without suffering any damage.

...
Tgwnn

so I just need a spare short Ti body....
Got any "rejects"?

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Agreed... that'd be some nice stuff right there.


Excellent idea! Now THAT's a delay I'd be happy to wait (and pay) for! :twothumbs

I just lurrrrves me some mechanical lockout, and this would be super "trick". Talk about setting a light apart from the rest... torpedo fin lockout?!

+1

Probably not any X-run left for sale, but hopefully it won't be too long until they go in to production.

Thanks for filling in th8tredude :thumbsup:

X099 reporting in.
Just got mine today.
As others have said much to like with design, weight and packaging.

No Pics yet.

In response to the O-Ring dilemma, I have foud that a little oil/grease does help, but a ratcheting motion works best as to not pinch the O-Rings while tightening the body. Two steps forward and one back

Now the X news . . .
Tried AAA works pretty good once getting used to it's nature of level changing.
Tried a 10250 Nuke. After about 5 minutes of playing with levels 1, 2, & 3, with a few short 3-5 sec bursts on high, the light got warm and I turned it off. After that no more Li-Lion's will work. Functions fine with 1.2 - 1.5V cells . Being this is a beta version, the important thing to remember is that my X's failure info will make the final release the best it can be.

Take Care
GL

PS I am still without my primary computer and may not be able to respond to all posts

GL,
Welcome back

I have to tell you all that GL is the first second person (that means the very first, second person)...
its getting late and my head is going numb....
hmmm
maybe that means the second, second person would actually be the third person???

Well the first person after me to see one of the first Torpedo proto's way way back.....
Thanks very much for the feedback and looks like you are a hair away from being in the flashdark club but glad you are still functional (I mean your Torpedo) on 1.2-1.5V cells.

Cataract, please don't send out any more flashdark codes

Nukes arrived today

Wow that is BRIGHT.

Awesome pics cnlson,
Thanks so much for sharing those :twothumbs
I have to admit recently I found my old Xeno AA XML.
Its got a li-ion in it but not sure if the circuit is busted or what but it seems quite dim compared to my HF-R.

I've also gotten to the point where I can turn the light on and get it to do what I want without even looking at it. when on high turn the other way 1/2 turn or so then go back to the direction you were turning to turn it up and it will turn down.

originally when I got the nukes I could not make it light at all. but it wasn't getting warm nor were the nukes losing a charge when connected to the head and the AAA kept working. I finally took the nuke out and extended the small tube and attempted to use the AAA, it didn't work at first, took the tube all the way apart and it appears the remains of the O-ring had insulated the two halves somehow. once i put it back together the aaa worked in the tube extended and once i turned it all the way back in the nuke worked as well. it is amazingly bright.

I am amazed at all that works with this light. Bravo Guy!

Thanks,
Looks like your close to mastering "The Force"!

Thanks for the tip on the o-ring insulation issue.
thats one I had not thought of as a possibility.

Cnlson,
Thanks for your reply.
The X 10250 expandable tube/spring works just fine with a 10250 Nuke using a HF, UTT, and HF-R head. I did as you and others and disassembled the expandable tube and tweaked the battery spring. Results works fine with a 1.5V cell but does not with a 3.7V 10250 Nuke/ 10440 cell.

I initially had a bit a manufacuring burrs or debris that would not allow the head to fully seat on the 10250 tube, which went away quickly. I also tried the AAA tube with a 10440 with the same results.

Take Care
GL

Update ! :
While composing this post the X head using the AAA tube loaded with a primary lithium 1.5V cell was in standby/off mode, the body became very warm after a few minutes. The lights driver is now doing what happened with a 3.7V cell.

GL

Hi GL,

Did I speak too soon?
You are now a part of the flashdark club?
OMG.....

The thing is I tested every one of these Xs with a nuke and AAA.
Like a delayed death.

I still need a few days to get caught up on things but I'm considering asking you flashdark folks to send in your heads (I want your head!)...
Need to ponder it but I'm thinking there must be a blown component on the board which is probably visibly damaged.

@tgwnn: Guy, the replacement Cottonpickers charger arrived yesterday and seems to work flawlessly. Thanks!

Also, much thanks for throwing in two of the new MBI 10250 nukes! That was a wonderful and generous surprise.

You are building up the most intensely loyal customer base imaginable. I mean, wow.

A couple of updates on the Torpedo itself:

(1) I have figured out a reasonably reliable way to work the UI. Hopefully this will work for others as well. When going up in modes, pause just a moment after each mode change. Then resume turning in the same direction to go up another level. To go back down, first turn 180 degrees the opposite direction (which will not induce a mode change, but apparently tells the Torpedo circuit "we're going down now"), then turn in the original direction, again pausing briefly between mode changes. After off is achieved, continue turning until the white dots are lined up, so that it stays off. It's a little finicky, but with practice, quite workable.

(2) I forgot to mention how gorgeous the Torpedo is. That's what I meant when I said this has the potential to be an iconic flashlight. Aesthetically, there's almost no room for improvement. I love it! The only thing I'd suggest, if it's possible, is to make the red anodizing more of a pure red. It's currently just slightly on the fuchsia side. It may be that the underlying metal is naturally bluish, so that a slightly more orange-red ano is required to achieve a pure red appearance. I don't know though -- not my area of expertise.

(3) I have had no trouble with overheating. I've been using MBI 10250 nukes exclusively.

(4) Now that I have the interface down, and I'm reasonably confident it won't pocket-activate or overheat, I've started to EDC the little guy on my keychain. I love how small and light it is!

(5) That said, one practical issue I've observed is that even after just two days of all-day pocket carry, the keyring is starting to rub off the anodizing on the sharp corners of the fins. If the fins were even just slightly rounded, the anodizing would presumably fare better.

Thanks again, Guy. -- flashflood

Hi flashflood,

Thanks for the additional feedback and my pleasure on the charger/nukes.
Even after wow....about 2yrs already...
I still get shocked when something arrives broken or missing, etc...

Looks like you too have The Force under your control.
Its helpful, as you can provide more feedback with things "working" but of course,
the goal is even folks who've not mastered the force (eg. my mother) should be able to use it.

Thanks for the compliments and feedback on the design.
A slightly deeper red would be nice!
Its tricky to get right with the anodizing which can be temperamental and no two batches ever seem to be exactly the same but I'll pursue that in production.

No trouble with overheat... :sweat: good news
Slightly rounded fins: ok, I'll have to test the aerodynamics to be sure (and tailstanding too), thanks for the suggestion.

How about some Matchbox Industries lights leading the way with some CuTi lights? Would it be better to go CuTi30 with more copper for better cooling/appearance, or CuTi50 where they're both 50/50 copper and titanium?

Hi kaichu dento,
Thanks for chiming in.
CuTi sounds cool.
Might have to track some down!

I think I recall seeing some at one supplier, used for some IT related thing, just don't remember what it was.

I experienced a similar issue as you so let me share what the fix was for my Torp. On the threaded end of the head you see the positive post. Surrounding the positive post is a black synthetic disk that threads into the head. I'm not certain, but it appears the disk is multi-function with the most important function being to protect the driver below it. You will notice two small holes in the disk on each side of the positive post. The disk on my Torp had loosened, probably from all the battery changes I've put it through. You can insert a round tooth pick with the point cut off, insert toothpick into one of the holes on the disk and tighten the disk until it seats. You could use a metal dental pick, but remember that the engine and electronic components are directly below the disk. With the disk seated my Torp functioned just as well as the first time out.

A word of caution, I wouldn't recommend removing the disk from the head. The synthetic disk is made from a much softer material than the aluminum head and the threads are very fine (small). It would be extremely easy to cross thread the disk while re-installing it. That would probably create one large can of worms. I hope this works for you as it did for me.

http://i62.tinypic.com/25jfrwn.jpg For some unknown reason the insert photo tool isn't working for me today.

Hi maskman,

Thanks very much for sharing that fix.
I'm thinking its possible after multiple re-installs of the driver, some of the disks might have worn slightly though I did request they be sealed with an adhesive to prevent issues so I did not test any of them for looseness in that way.

Its worth mentioning I've killed more than a few prototypes by try to remove disks, circuitry and the like so I can not emphasize enough that anyone trying it should be very very gentle, slow and careful with this step.

Re-posting maskmans photo below for convenience

Ok... some 2 1/2 hrs later....
finally made it to the end
BooYah!!

Tgwnn

p.s. A big thanks to everyone for so much detailed feedback. Absolutely awesome.
p.p.s. falling asleep so I may catch up on other threads 2morrow

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

so I just need a spare short Ti body....
Got any "rejects"?

Hi mcbrat,

let me check on that tomorrow and mail you

Tgwnn

 

[Husker]

Husker, if you're seriously not going to keep it please send me a PM and we can make this little problem go away, or at least to Texas.

Sorry, it's traveling to Florida, should be their today or Friday... I still have 4 new Efest IMR 10440s, if your interested.

 

[agt]

I've noticed some more problems:
1. With 10250 batteries the light usually works on 3rd level only a fraction of second. It works consistently on 3rd level only with fully charged battery, and if the battery is 4.0V or lower, it won't work. Surprisingly, if you are fast enough to scroll to 4th (max) level, it will work for 30sec as it should.
2. I've ruined O-ring after some 10250<>10440 transitions. It makes sense to include 2-3 spare O-ring in final production or make some design change.

 

[th8tredude]

I've had that same issue of staying on high for only a fraction of a second when the cell is down at all. Although, occasionally just re-installing the battery fixes it. It seems the voltage sense threshold for detecting cell type might be a bit sensitive...
Just a thought.
Th8tredude

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Sorry, it's traveling to Florida, should be their today or Friday... I still have 4 new Efest IMR 10440s, if your interested.

Thanks Husker

I've noticed some more problems:
1. With 10250 batteries the light usually works on 3rd level only a fraction of second. It works consistently on 3rd level only with fully charged battery, and if the battery is 4.0V or lower, it won't work. Surprisingly, if you are fast enough to scroll to 4th (max) level, it will work for 30sec as it should.
2. I've ruined O-ring after some 10250<>10440 transitions. It makes sense to include 2-3 spare O-ring in final production or make some design change.

Hi agt,

Thanks for the additional feedback.
I think it must be some tolerance differences in the voltage detection causing the mode issue.
O-ring, will definitely include spares with the production version along with a design enhancement.

I've had that same issue of staying on high for only a fraction of a second when the cell is down at all. Although, occasionally just re-installing the battery fixes it. It seems the voltage sense threshold for detecting cell type might be a bit sensitive...
Just a thought.
Th8tredude

Thanks th8tredude :thumbsup:

Tgwnn

 

[cnlson]

one more thing i note. since the nukes are so darn bright i thought it would be fun to EDC it. so on my keychain when the keys are in the ignition, if the road is bumpy the light turns on low. happened 3 times tonight on the way back from Buffalo Wild Wings.

 

[DBCstm]

Guy, that would be greatly appreciated if you can divert it to Texas. Let me know and I'll send you a PayPal.
Husker, if you're not going to use those Efest cells I'll gladly take em off your hands. Shoot me a PM and we'll work out the details. I keep finding more and more ways to use em.

Nice work on all the info Tribal Family. Very good reading and critically pertinent information, ready to give one a go my ownself. (wondering if I can fit an MT-G2 in there...)

 

[Cataract]

Been real busy myself and didn't have time to slide the borescope into the tube or try any of the nice new tricks - or even the old ones- yet. Hopefully tomorrow (probably today by the time I finish typping)

[...]
Hi Cataract,

Thanks for the feedback and congrats on your package :thumbsup:
Hey, the flashdark is still supposed to be a secret!

So sorry about the short lived flash "light". Let me know if it comes back to life, if not will add you to my list of flashdarks that need a new head.

Very much appreciate your kind feedback, even on the flashdark.

Thanks for the point about knurling on the control ring, looks like its also an increasingly popular suggestion.
I have to admit that each post I find with a Torpedo that died so suddenly is somewhat like a whack to the heart/head.
After all this time... it's disappointing to me to disappoint you all in such a way.
Working on it though so please hang in there and thank you so much for being an X'er :twothumbs

>> It really makes me feel I am a part of the Torpedo team!
Hell yes!! Of course you are.
In fact, I'm working on a Unicorn stamp for one of my next postcards...
even these have secret coding on them but even after several months its not been discovered yet.
[...]


Have you tried the alternative spectralyzer glasses?
possibly flash it at Uni and see if he reacts

[...]

I'll have to put some time aside to catch up on all the other secret codes... after all I'm on of the O's!

Didn't think of trying the spectralyzer glasses while handling both flashlight and flashdark, but I'll have to also retry while turning the flashlights or flashdark on it's axis align the polarization... I did get a reaction from Uni, though; he seemed to go blind for a few seconds, but I did have the HF on him just before, so I'm not sure which he reacted to:thinking:

[...]
Hi Cataract,

Thanks for the suggestions.
I especially like the propeller lock out idea :twothumbs
[...]

By reading the complaints on the Zebra threads, some people seem not to like having 2 actions to take for lockout-lock"in", so I thought having 2 ways to lock the light would be great (one software lockout and a hardware lockout, the software lockout being reset after the hardware lockout is back to the "on" position anyways) but the Torp is not as likely to turn on by itself as a zebra (older gen, as reports of this problem seem to have died out with the deeper switch.) The beauty of the propeller lockout is that you could also go instantly to off.

If I may get fancy with the propeller lockout idea (like anything has ever stopped me from doing so);
Quarter turn anti-clockwise (with a detent) = lockout, but with mode memory. In other words, when you turn the propeller to the right again, the light comes back on in the last mode it was. I know, very hard to achieve, but check out the REAL fancy part:
3/4 turn anti-clockwise, the propeller pops out 1/8" and becomes a momentary switch. you gotta want to kick me for giving you such tempting yet almost impossible to achieve ideas (like you didn't have enough of your own...) that would give the propeller 100% functionality! (plus, it's like a secret code or an easter egg!!!)


P.S.: I didn't send those flashdark codes... perhaps Uni did or the Unobtanium pill is spreading them through the tunnels, but there is also a possibility the interface funkiness is simulating the code... will definitely try to reproduce it backwards.

one more thing i note. since the nukes are so darn bright i thought it would be fun to EDC it. so on my keychain when the keys are in the ignition, if the road is bumpy the light turns on low. happened 3 times tonight on the way back from Buffalo Wild Wings.

The metal parts on cars seem to have an inconvenient tendency to be somewhat magnetic... I never could use a compass inside my cars, perhaps your torp was turned on by proximity to the metal parts -or anti-theft hidden sensor - under the steering wheel while shifting around? Then again, it might just be MY cars that become magnetic from all those abductions...

 

[cnlson]

Looks like your close to mastering "The Force"!

aaaaand predictably today i could not get it to turn off without lining up the marks. randomly temperamental.

The metal parts on cars seem to have an inconvenient tendency to be somewhat magnetic... I never could use a compass inside my cars, perhaps your torp was turned on by proximity to the metal parts -or anti-theft hidden sensor - under the steering wheel while shifting around? Then again, it might just be MY cars that become magnetic from all those abductions...

that being the case, although i'm not in favor of a lockout, perhaps it is needed. at least a parking position that cannot turn on (with a detent to be able to put it there by touch.)

i still think 5 postitions, 72 degrees apart, fixed with detents, rotate 1 way for high to low, the other for low to high would be a seriously nice UI. There are times I'd love to start on blindingly bright (what's that noise?) and others the dimmest available (grandkids camping/sleeping in the basement)

any thoughts on a keychain keeper for a spare nuke? although they are bright they seem to run down fairly quickly. something printable on the 3d printer perhaps? Keychain containment

 

[kaichu dento]

Hi kaichu dento,
Thanks for chiming in.
CuTi sounds cool.
Might have to track some down!

With constant comment on Ti vs. other metals with better heat transfer, or Ti vs. other metals with less durability (and less beauty) it seems that this copper/titanium alloy could be the perfect answer.

I keep watching your threads, not commenting much because there's so much traffic it's hard to follow, but I'd also think that this alloy could avoid the heavy tarnish and smell issues that some have with copper.

When I first posted about it I half expected you to say you were already working with some and I don't see how you address every single reply here, hold a full time job and make these lights happen.

 

[agt]

i still think 5 postitions, 72 degrees apart, fixed with detents, rotate 1 way for high to low, the other for low to high would be a seriously nice UI. There are times I'd love to start on blindingly bright (what's that noise?) and others the dimmest available (grandkids camping/sleeping in the basement)

Yes, I'd like to see this kind of UI too.

 

[mcbrat]

i still think 5 postitions, 72 degrees apart, fixed with detents, rotate 1 way for high to low, the other for low to high would be a seriously nice UI. There are times I'd love to start on blindingly bright (what's that noise?) and others the dimmest available (grandkids camping/sleeping in the basement).

Yes, I'd like to see this kind of UI too.

That would be slick.

 

[flashflood]

i still think 5 postitions, 72 degrees apart, fixed with detents, rotate 1 way for high to low, the other for low to high would be a seriously nice UI.

Yes! That's even better than the volume knob model.

Also, 5 positions, 72 degrees apart? Do you work for the Pentagon? Are you a star? Gimme five! You devil...

 

[NowIC]

I've been carrying my TorpedoX every day for a couple weeks. I've used it on the job a couple times, but due to the finicky UI, most of my use has been under more casual and less demanding circumstances. I've found that the UI has become slightly more predictable and consistent over time. Some of this is surely due to the fact that although it is finicky, I have picked up on some of its more predictable quirks. I've learned that operating the switch quickly will drive it crazy. If I wait a second before changing settings, it is much more reliable. Also, when it reverses its response to a switch operation, I can now oftentimes slow it down, reverse it again, and then it will settle down to responding properly again.

Here are additional observations in list form:

~ The rotational operation of the switch requires a greater twist for the lowest two positions than it does for the highest two.
~ The rotational operation of the switch is convenient and pleasurable. This design is definitely the best light mechanism I have experienced.
~ The packaging was impressive and I appreciated the attention to detail and polished impression it gave me.
~ One of the batteries remains stuck in the packaging.
~ the short body is offset concentrically from the head.
~ upon arrival, the nuke retained a charge of 3.8 volts.
~ the o-ring would roll out when I assembled the short body (I slowed the assembly process which alleviated the problem).
~ The output is very warm by my eye, much warmer than my HFR-UTT.
~ The output is perceptively less than my UTT, but some of this perception is surely due to the warmer tint.
~ The short body's length feels good in my hand when operating the switch. My first reaction was that I would prefer it to be shorter like my UTT, but after use, I've found this length to be more ergonomic for my hand.
~ I like the sharp tail fins as they make it easier for me to identify the front end without looking.
~ Battery drain during idle is quick. The nukes will go from ~4.15V to ~3.7V in 12 hours without use. It will continue to drain the battery after the auto step down has activated.
~ Battery rattle with eFest 10440.
~ I absolutely love the appearance and aesthetics.

This light is everything I expected for this beta level and I'm looking forward to the production model with a reliable UI. I would opt for a slightly cooler tint if possible. Even with the quirky UI and battery drain issues, it will be a pleasure to carry this light daily for the foreseeable future.

 

[mcbrat]

if anyone needed a small momentary only light, I think a Black Zoom head, black momentary switch, and either Torpedo body would be a slick little package, looking like a tiny MAG.