Anglepoise
Flashlight Enthusiast
Looks great Fred. Keep the pictures coming.....
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A Custom Built Light from A to Z
- Thread starter PhotonFanatic
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Nebula
Enlightened
Beautiful work, Fred.
270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
nice looking thing Fred.
Any plans to produce an AA light for the rest us schmoes any times soon?
Any plans to produce an AA light for the rest us schmoes any times soon?
Fred
this is outstanding - im right in thinking these are still the aluminum pieces
a lot of trouble to go to just for a prototype! - are you going to sell the aluminum light too?
check out that wall thickness! - now this is when you are allowed to use terms such as... "built like a tank"
just think in stainless steel this thing will outlast all of us!
just out of interest Fred can you weigh these aluminum bits for me?
do i also notice your signature mistake on the battery tube with the dimples?
very impressed
Alex
this is outstanding - im right in thinking these are still the aluminum pieces
a lot of trouble to go to just for a prototype! - are you going to sell the aluminum light too?
check out that wall thickness! - now this is when you are allowed to use terms such as... "built like a tank"
just think in stainless steel this thing will outlast all of us!
just out of interest Fred can you weigh these aluminum bits for me?
do i also notice your signature mistake on the battery tube with the dimples?
very impressed
Alex
DM51
Flashaholic
That is just amazing work - fantastic. Very good pics, too. Great thread!
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Alex,
I've learned my lessons before, i.e., I learn from my mistakes, so I'd rather screw up on AL first, then perhaps I won't make the same mistakes on the SS. As it turns out, I did find a design boo boo--the threaded area at the top of the battery tube, that connects to the copper module needed to be made larger in diameter than the 15.25mm so that the walls of the converter module wouldn't be too thin. Now, I'm planning a 17mm diameter bore at the top of the battery tube for the converter threads.
I suppose if someone wants to buy the AL body and converter module when I am done, then I'd be glad to part with it. Recover some costs, at least.
The two AL pieces weigh 1.1 ounces, as measured on my postal scale--I don't have anything better than that.
Ah, you noticed that extra dimple? I wish I could say that I did it on purpose. :devil: Just another reason for the AL prototype, although to be honest, I already had F'ed up the taper, so I knew that the rest of the design didn't matter that much to me, so I was pushing for time.
Off to do the copper module.
jch79
**Do Not Feed The Vegan**,
Fred -
I love these threads. Your photos are SO great - especially for someone like me, who doesn't know how to machine, but wants to know how it's done, and maybe someday will get into it! :thumbsup:
Thanks a lot,
john
I love these threads. Your photos are SO great - especially for someone like me, who doesn't know how to machine, but wants to know how it's done, and maybe someday will get into it! :thumbsup:
Thanks a lot,
john
Fred
thanks for the info - as soon as you start ss ill send you another payment :twothumbs
i have a feeling you might be getting my custom again! - ill make a lot simpler light next time - i fancy a workhorse as well as a "show off light"
1 x subC cell simple tube full knurling - lets hope your still around in 6 months
:naughty:
thanks for the info - as soon as you start ss ill send you another payment :twothumbs
i have a feeling you might be getting my custom again! - ill make a lot simpler light next time - i fancy a workhorse as well as a "show off light"
1 x subC cell simple tube full knurling - lets hope your still around in 6 months
:naughty:
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Wanted to complete the converter module in copper today, but, alas, my copper bar was only 7/8" in diameter while I needed 1". Hey, no problem--just do it in AL instead. 
The converter module houses both the driver and the LED and serves as a massive heatsink also. The overall length is 20mm, with 8mm devoted to the treads on each end to connect to the head and the battery tube, while the remaining 4mm are exposed between the two.
Here's how it looked after I had completed the threads on one end and was about to turn the area to be treaded on the other end:
And after threading both ends:
Next to be tackled were the grooves in the external 4mm section--these are quite narrow, only .5mm and 1mm deep:
Once those were done, I needed to bevel the edges to match the head and the battery tube. Despite how carefully one might plan, there always seems to be some discrepancy between the size you wanted to turn and the size you actually turned. Normally, these would not be noticable to the eye at all, but with this bevel meeting a flat surface, it was important to get them pretty closely matched:
Once the bevels were in place and the threading done, then it was time to bore out the space for the driver. The depth of this bore is only 5mm, so I usually don't bother to drill first and then bore, I just use my boring tool to achieve the depth as well as the diameter that I want:
And this is the final depth, with a diameter of 13.80mm:
Of course, most standard drivers are now .55", or 14mm, in diameter, so the final bore is to place a lip close to the 14mm diameter and 1.6mm deep, which is the thickness of the standard PCB board that Wayne and Mike Jordan use. Here is the lip, which I make to 13.96mm and then prefer to sand the converter down to fit tightly:
One of the last operations is parting off the second stub:
Then that end, where the LED sits, gets faced nice and smooth, and for today, at least, I'm done. Time to assemble everything and take the final pics:
And a close-up the converter module.
Man, the camera with flash, is harsh--shows all the flaws. :shakehead
Should look a bit better when sanded and polished.
The converter module houses both the driver and the LED and serves as a massive heatsink also. The overall length is 20mm, with 8mm devoted to the treads on each end to connect to the head and the battery tube, while the remaining 4mm are exposed between the two.
Here's how it looked after I had completed the threads on one end and was about to turn the area to be treaded on the other end:
And after threading both ends:
Next to be tackled were the grooves in the external 4mm section--these are quite narrow, only .5mm and 1mm deep:
Once those were done, I needed to bevel the edges to match the head and the battery tube. Despite how carefully one might plan, there always seems to be some discrepancy between the size you wanted to turn and the size you actually turned. Normally, these would not be noticable to the eye at all, but with this bevel meeting a flat surface, it was important to get them pretty closely matched:
Once the bevels were in place and the threading done, then it was time to bore out the space for the driver. The depth of this bore is only 5mm, so I usually don't bother to drill first and then bore, I just use my boring tool to achieve the depth as well as the diameter that I want:
And this is the final depth, with a diameter of 13.80mm:
Of course, most standard drivers are now .55", or 14mm, in diameter, so the final bore is to place a lip close to the 14mm diameter and 1.6mm deep, which is the thickness of the standard PCB board that Wayne and Mike Jordan use. Here is the lip, which I make to 13.96mm and then prefer to sand the converter down to fit tightly:
One of the last operations is parting off the second stub:
Then that end, where the LED sits, gets faced nice and smooth, and for today, at least, I'm done. Time to assemble everything and take the final pics:
And a close-up the converter module.
Man, the camera with flash, is harsh--shows all the flaws. :shakehead
Should look a bit better when sanded and polished.Fred
very good work :bow: - you dont waste any time! :twothumbs
i dont mind if you do the finished converter in aluminium
its up to you (i might want future spares)
im happy with the result but i do like the photo of the light before it had the converter in it (shorter and a bit less cluttered)
your free to do it the way we decided - after all i did say i was happy with it - your also free to kill me for what im about to suggest
if this was indeed a test converter and you are going to do another anyway then this wont hurt too much!
the 4mm bit with the grooves can go (if you want) - 2 ways i think this can be done (easy and hard)
1)make it 2mm and just do it flush - this would have no effect on any of the internal dims and makes your life easier
2)bore some extra internal grooves make the converter narrower in diameter so the lip sits inside the light
these are just ideas based on the way the light looks to me in the photos - and as i know ive been a royal PITA
this is definitely your call - if you like the look of the converter and/or you were not making another - keep it this way
if its no extra hassle to do it one of the other ways ive suggested then do that - others please comment - which way do you guys like it?
just one point - i was expecting o-rings - should i have mensioned that? :thinking:
what size are those threads - they look very fine - it might just be the way it looks in the photos - redesign?
a weight for the 3 peices now if you would
based on the weight of the 2 peices those will weigh 90grams when its stainless steel so its looking like it will fall in my target weight
wow - im suprised more ppl dont hate me!:grouphug:
very good work :bow: - you dont waste any time! :twothumbs
i dont mind if you do the finished converter in aluminium
its up to you (i might want future spares)
im happy with the result but i do like the photo of the light before it had the converter in it (shorter and a bit less cluttered)
your free to do it the way we decided - after all i did say i was happy with it - your also free to kill me for what im about to suggest
if this was indeed a test converter and you are going to do another anyway then this wont hurt too much!
the 4mm bit with the grooves can go (if you want) - 2 ways i think this can be done (easy and hard)
1)make it 2mm and just do it flush - this would have no effect on any of the internal dims and makes your life easier
2)bore some extra internal grooves make the converter narrower in diameter so the lip sits inside the light
these are just ideas based on the way the light looks to me in the photos - and as i know ive been a royal PITA
this is definitely your call - if you like the look of the converter and/or you were not making another - keep it this way
if its no extra hassle to do it one of the other ways ive suggested then do that - others please comment - which way do you guys like it?
just one point - i was expecting o-rings - should i have mensioned that? :thinking:
what size are those threads - they look very fine - it might just be the way it looks in the photos - redesign?
a weight for the 3 peices now if you would
based on the weight of the 2 peices those will weigh 90grams when its stainless steel so its looking like it will fall in my target weight
wow - im suprised more ppl dont hate me!:grouphug:
Last edited:
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Alex,
I don't know how nice AL would look against the SS pieces, plus it would oxidize over time. I still think the copper would look nice.
As for the grooves in the converter, it is your light and I can certainly eliminate them. They do help to disquise the seam when the light is off, i.e., slightly open.
The simplest solution, if you don't want the grooves is to make the converter flush with the head--I may just turn down those grooves and post a photo of that, so that you can decide. The width could be taken down to 2mm, instead of 4mm without any problem.
Hiding the converter inside the light would mean a major design change. Otherwise you have the head and battery tube just butting against each other. Would be better if they overlapped instead, if the converter were completely internal. The idea behind the external converter portion is to provide a heat path to the outside of the light, i.e., your hand, to help keep the LED cool, although I have no data to prove that it does that.
Yup, there will be O-rings, although I didn't point out where they were going on the converter. Final specs still to be determined on those, but they will be metric O-rings, only 1mm thick. And they do not show when the light is off, either.
Weight is 1.6 ounces now.
The threads are fine--.5mm pitch.
I don't know how nice AL would look against the SS pieces, plus it would oxidize over time. I still think the copper would look nice.
As for the grooves in the converter, it is your light and I can certainly eliminate them. They do help to disquise the seam when the light is off, i.e., slightly open.
The simplest solution, if you don't want the grooves is to make the converter flush with the head--I may just turn down those grooves and post a photo of that, so that you can decide. The width could be taken down to 2mm, instead of 4mm without any problem.
Hiding the converter inside the light would mean a major design change. Otherwise you have the head and battery tube just butting against each other. Would be better if they overlapped instead, if the converter were completely internal. The idea behind the external converter portion is to provide a heat path to the outside of the light, i.e., your hand, to help keep the LED cool, although I have no data to prove that it does that.
Yup, there will be O-rings, although I didn't point out where they were going on the converter. Final specs still to be determined on those, but they will be metric O-rings, only 1mm thick. And they do not show when the light is off, either.
Weight is 1.6 ounces now.
The threads are fine--.5mm pitch.
Fred
copper is great but it just means more purchases for you
so your call - id prefer copper but if its alu then ill just polish it
if we do go with copper and we do go flush then it can be less than 2mm a nice subtle ring
i see what your saying about hiding the seam when its off but a lot of clickys even have a seam - its still there and you cant hide anything from a CPF-er!!
i just like the look on the one without the converter
i dont think there will be thermal issues eather way
for me its looking like doing it flush and copper if you can 1 - 2mm
the grooves look good but just not as good as without -
just one point how are we going to stop the wrong bit twisting?
opposite thread directions? - i dont want to use glue
thanks for listening!
edit...
ive just done some sums and the alu converter weighs 14.2g in aluminium
it will weigh 47.2g in copper!!! - it might need a bit of extra machining anyway so trimming it down and removing the grooves might be a good idea
ss with alu converter = 105g add another 10g for the other bits 115g
ss with copper = 138g + 10 call it 150g
both good figures but it would be good to get the copper a bit lower!
copper is great but it just means more purchases for you
so your call - id prefer copper but if its alu then ill just polish it
if we do go with copper and we do go flush then it can be less than 2mm a nice subtle ring
i see what your saying about hiding the seam when its off but a lot of clickys even have a seam - its still there and you cant hide anything from a CPF-er!!
i just like the look on the one without the converter
i dont think there will be thermal issues eather way
for me its looking like doing it flush and copper if you can 1 - 2mm
the grooves look good but just not as good as without -
just one point how are we going to stop the wrong bit twisting?
opposite thread directions? - i dont want to use glue
thanks for listening!
edit...
ive just done some sums and the alu converter weighs 14.2g in aluminium
it will weigh 47.2g in copper!!! - it might need a bit of extra machining anyway so trimming it down and removing the grooves might be a good idea
ss with alu converter = 105g add another 10g for the other bits 115g
ss with copper = 138g + 10 call it 150g
both good figures but it would be good to get the copper a bit lower!
Last edited:
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Alex,
As for controlling which thread loosens when twisting the head, I try to control that mainly through the tightness of the threads/O-ring. In other words, the head's threads and O-ring fit are made tighter than the junction between the battery tube and the O-ring there. However, that depends to some extent of luck while doing the threading, i.e., it doesn't take but just a fraction of a mm to loose that tightness by making the thread or O-ring groove just too big. In that case, yes, I would use a thread locker to keep the head/converter assembly working as a unit. It isn't the end of the world, a mild thread locker can still be broken fairly easily if that's what one wants to do.
Actually, in real world use, I find that if you just crank down hard while tightening the head to the converter, that pretty much keeps things intact. When it come times to turn the light on, the threads/O-ring are already disengaged on the battery tube side, so it just takes light pressure to close the gap in order to turn the light on. No need to crank down hard then, so there is very little likelihood of binding then.
As for the weight of the copper converter, I think you've forgotten an e-mail where I suggested that I might drill out portions of the heatsink to reduce the weight a bit.
I will be ordering the copper and will make the converter flush with the head and battery tube, with only 1 to 1.5mm exposed.
As for controlling which thread loosens when twisting the head, I try to control that mainly through the tightness of the threads/O-ring. In other words, the head's threads and O-ring fit are made tighter than the junction between the battery tube and the O-ring there. However, that depends to some extent of luck while doing the threading, i.e., it doesn't take but just a fraction of a mm to loose that tightness by making the thread or O-ring groove just too big. In that case, yes, I would use a thread locker to keep the head/converter assembly working as a unit. It isn't the end of the world, a mild thread locker can still be broken fairly easily if that's what one wants to do.
Actually, in real world use, I find that if you just crank down hard while tightening the head to the converter, that pretty much keeps things intact. When it come times to turn the light on, the threads/O-ring are already disengaged on the battery tube side, so it just takes light pressure to close the gap in order to turn the light on. No need to crank down hard then, so there is very little likelihood of binding then.
As for the weight of the copper converter, I think you've forgotten an e-mail where I suggested that I might drill out portions of the heatsink to reduce the weight a bit.
I will be ordering the copper and will make the converter flush with the head and battery tube, with only 1 to 1.5mm exposed.
greenLED
Flashaholic
Wow, Fred! :bow:
PhotonFanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
When are this going to be up for sale??
Well, since this is a custom built light, only one of a kind, you'll have to wait for Alex to put it up for sale. :devil:
Teasers :mecry:. Good luck with the rest of the build:thumbsup:. I love the pictures of the machining process. You dont get to c that very often..
More..More....More!!
Are we odd for liking the details? I feel like we are all in the shop right there with Fred during the whole process. This design is pretty cool. If the finished product works out as planned ,thought should be given to a larger run in aluminum they would sell like hot cakes
Are we odd for liking the details? I feel like we are all in the shop right there with Fred during the whole process. This design is pretty cool. If the finished product works out as planned ,thought should be given to a larger run in aluminum they would sell like hot cakes
