A run of TI E Series Electronic Switches with custom trit button . Interested?

[smarkum]

Looks like were are ONLY about 1/4 of the way there . . . Please register your interest . . . and then go tell you friends... come all, we CAN do this!!!!!

 

[mohanjude]

Yes you are right. No dimples. I used a pair pliers on the 'cone' are of the switch and screwed it in. I expected to be scratched but looking at the switch there was no marks. I guess titanium is really quite hard and will not be easily marked by using a jewellers or small long lose pliers. It fits in without a problem as there are no o rings along the body to grip and cause resitance. The o ring is dropped in the bottom of the switch similar to a mclicky

How would you install in E-switch in a Haiku body Mohanjude?

Normally the Veleno E-switches screw into E-series tailcaps from the end near the body, but with the McClicky packs the McClickies screw in from the tail-end by gripping the McClicky switches via the 2 dimples. As far as I'm aware the Veleno E-switches do not have the dimples to grip on.

 

[easilyled]

Yes you are right. No dimples. I used a pair pliers on the 'cone' are of the switch and screwed it in. I expected to be scratched but looking at the switch there was no marks. I guess titanium is really quite hard and will not be easily marked by using a jewellers or small long lose pliers. It fits in without a problem as there are no o rings along the body to grip and cause resitance. The o ring is dropped in the bottom of the switch similar to a mclicky

Wow! I'm impressed that no scratches were caused during that procedure.

All the same, I think it would be easier if there were a couple of neat dimples on the flat area of the switch on either side of the "cone" for the purpose of gripping with needle-nose or circlip pliers when the E-series trit-switch is specifically intended for replacing a McClicky switch in an integral one-piece body with inbuilt tail-switch (like the McGizmo clicky packs or maybe also for Mac's lights).

Would it be possible to provide this? If so, I would be interested in one or two.

 

[mohanjude]

Wow! I'm impressed that no scratches were caused during that procedure.

All the same, I think it would be easier if there were a couple of neat dimples on the flat area of the switch on either side of the "cone" for the purpose of gripping with needle-nose or circlip pliers when the E-series trit-switch is specifically intended for replacing a McClicky switch in an integral one-piece body with inbuilt tail-switch (like the McGizmo clicky packs or maybe also for Mac's lights).

Would it be possible to provide this? If so, I would be interested in one or two.

Yep no scratches..

I could machine or mill 2 slots on the cone. It is a very steep angle. I will look into and perhaps post a mod and a picture. I could mill 2 dimples on the flat but it is fairly deep it will be difficult to locate

The switch is a one piece unit that uses a brass spacer on some lights when it is screwed into the tail cap from the inside on lights with removable tail caps. There is 2 notches for this purpose when screwed in from inside the tail cap. When used on dons or mac's lights it is screwed in as one piece from the outside and I agree with you that a dimple or some way of anchoring a pliers would be helpful.

 

[gunga]

I'm still unsure how you change modes since the switch is electronic and not physical in nature.

 

[easilyled]

I'm still unsure how you change modes since the switch is electronic and not physical in nature.

press to switch on and press to switch off quickly.
Then the next press to switch on goes to the next level. To keep it there, don't press to switch off for a few seconds. Otherwise, repeat the previous sequence.

 

[gunga]

Sorry, to be more clear. I understand the modes with the standard clicky. I meant with the Trit switch.

 

[easilyled]

Sorry, to be more clear. I understand the modes with the standard clicky. I meant with the Trit switch.

The instructions I've given are for the trit-switch.
With the clicky you can use a momentary push to go to the next level instead of switching it physically on and then off.
With the trit-switch you have to press on, then press off as there is no momentary facility.
That is the difference between the two.

The lack of the momentary facility for the trit-switch means that its slower to change levels and for a very fast interface like a McGizmo UI where the levels have to be changed very quickly, this may not be feasible.

 

[mohanjude]

Dan - well explained.

Most of the lights the mode is changed by clicking momentarily on the switch (Mclicky or similar) to switch brightness. Most drivers are 'intellegient' ie repeated switching on and off will put them into mode change mode even if it is not done quickly (0.5sec gap or mroe) . Sometimes this can be frustrating if you accidentally turn the torch on and off quickly repeatedly as it changes modes 'accidentally'.

On the Mcgizmo you literally have to press the button momemtarily very quickly in sequence to get it to mode change. This is difficult on the e switch as it has a inherant delay between turning on and off following a press of the button. It latches on and off and has no momentary action. Repeated pressing of the button quickly does not turn the e-switch on and off any quickly which means no mode change on the mcgizmo.

The instructions I've given are for the trit-switch.
With the clicky you can use a momentary push to go to the next level instead of switching it physically on and then off.
With the trit-switch you have to press on, then press off as there is no momentary facility.
That is the difference between the two.

The lack of the momentary facility for the trit-switch means that its slower to change levels and for a very fast interface like a McGizmo UI where the levels have to be changed very quickly, this may not be feasible.

 

[smarkum]

And the Electronic switch makes NO noise . . . A BONUS in some situations! And, with the raised button, it is easier to "click" than a standard clicky -- at least for my arthritic thumbs.

Let me see . . . Looks like we are still only about a quarter of the way there . . . .Please put the word out there if you know folks who might be interested!

On a side note . . . this is GREAT news that these switches will fit in a McGizmo. . . I didn't even know that. I will add another 3 to my order . . .

 

[euroken]

The electronic switches are also shorter than mcclickies so this should also include the spacer for the battery just as Steve Ku has done in his run of e-series switches.

I'd be interested in couple pending cost and that above issues are sorted out, e.g. Spacer, holes/notches for plier installation, etc.

 

[jcalvert]

 

[mohanjude]

The electronic switches are also shorter than mcclickies so this should also include the spacer for the battery just as Steve Ku has done in his run of e-series switches.

I'd be interested in couple pending cost and that above issues are sorted out, e.g. Spacer, holes/notches for plier installation, etc.

The switches are exactly as per Steve ku and will include the spacer, o ring and silicon seal.

 

[jcalvert]

:bump:

 

[euroken]

The switches are exactly as per Steve ku and will include the spacer, o ring and silicon seal.

Then I'm interested for two please!

 

[gunga]

Okay. Have a haiku now, so interested. I understand the ui, but does it work properly with the slower e switch?

 

[smarkum]

:santa: Just a reminder to folks, if you're interested in E series switch . . . please tell you friends, pimp out this thread or whatever is needed. . . we need a lot more folks interested in these switches. . . and please guesstimate how many you would like . . . that will help in deciding when there is enough interest. Let's get er done!

 

[toby_pra]

Would be interested in 2 of them if these also fit McGizmo switches, what i expect, right?

 

[euroken]

Okay. Have a haiku now, so interested. I understand the ui, but does it work properly with the slower e switch?

Would be interested in 2 of them if these also fit McGizmo switches, what i expect, right?

From what I've been reading, these fit Don's lights such as the Haiku but the nature of the electronic switch and Haiku's driver won't allow proper mode switching. Some members have stated that the mode switching is done by pressing the switch four times rapidly. Hope this helps.

 

[toby_pra]

I am still interested...many thanks for the Info