Baltics are here!

[Theatre Booth Guy]

The Baltics came in today!

Ordered two of them, the HA-III "High Power" and a truly interesting stainless steel "Super Ultra Power" with the optional 2AAA body and momentary switch (stainless also) Loaded them up with some new Sanyo 1000mAH AAA NiMH cells and let 'er rip. WOW!
The super ultra power on 2AAA is very, very bright with plenty of punch. It is in the same class as my stainless steel Mediterranean 2AA! Used it for around 15 minutes today and that puppy will get quite hot when motivated by two NiMH AAA cells. It reminds me of those stainless penlights the docs carried in their pockets. Until you turn it on and realize it will blind the heck out of you.
The regular Baltic single AAA will be loaded with lithium AAA cells for 5 hours of runtime and used on a lanyard. The gap bothers me a little but I adjusted the post back so it is not very noticable at all.
Now if they can make the momentary a press for momentary on and click for full on... All in all, great lights that have regulation and decent runtime and punch or in the case of the stainless Super Ultra Power... a penlight that kicks serious butt and next to impossible to break. :thumbsup:

Any chance you can post pictures of your long blinder? I'm really currious about that option (it sounds like fun!). How's the runtime with the pair of cells? Does the light work as well if only a single NiMH is used?

Gotta love the Peak Stainless Baltics!

 

[Spordin]

Has anyone used an alkaline in an Ultra? Just interested in how long it will last, though I would plan on using lithiums.

 

[HenryE]

I have one with an "S" stamped in the positive terminal, and assume that's 'SUPER'...

Will the regulation permit safe use of a 3.7V rechargeable lithium AAA cell (~4V off the charger)? Don't want to try until one of the gurus comments...

??

 

[BentHeadTX]

I checked my stainless super ultra power Baltic with the 2xAAA body on my Fluke 179 multimeter on the 10 amp scale today. It pulls 850mA (!) No wonder it is so stinking bright! Checked it against my Mediterranean with 2AA body and they both pull basically the same from the batteries.

I like the Baltic "SUP" 2xAAA stainless light with momentary switch so much, the Med might get kicked off it's perch as work EDC. (I carry both for now)

 

[BentHeadTX]

Had a power failure last night and used the Baltic stainless 2xAAA as my main light. It worked very, very well and lit up the cul de sac without a problem. So I made my move and my Baltic 2xAAA is now my EDC work light.

There is something about a stainless "penlight" that puts out serious lumens that I really enjoy. OK, it is the super ultra power version and consumes 850mA off two 1000mAH NiMH AAA batteries but I love the punch and wider beam. It replaces my stainless Mediterranean 2AA as my prefered work EDC. The Med is sitting at my desk at work so it is not out of the hunt.

Kudos to Peak for making a Luxeon penlight with attitude.

 

[Theatre Booth Guy]

Had a power failure last night and used the Baltic stainless 2xAAA as my main light. It worked very, very well and lit up the cul de sac without a problem. So I made my move and my Baltic 2xAAA is now my EDC work light.

There is something about a stainless "penlight" that puts out serious lumens that I really enjoy. OK, it is the super ultra power version and consumes 850mA off two 1000mAH NiMH AAA batteries but I love the punch and wider beam. It replaces my stainless Mediterranean 2AA as my prefered work EDC. The Med is sitting at my desk at work so it is not out of the hunt.

Kudos to Peak for making a Luxeon penlight with attitude.

LOL, thank's to your statements about this light, I lost my will to resist and ordered one last week. Any hints for success other than using 1AH NiMH AAA's? How well does it work using one of those cells?
Thank's

 

[HenryE]

Peak answered my earlier question regarding use of a 3.7V AAA cell - DON'T.

Pity - I have some of those, which would be great if compatible.

 

[Theatre Booth Guy]

Peter Atwood wrote:

[I too was bothered by the big gap between head and body and solved mine by throwing a fat O-ring in there. It acts as a rubber bumper and gives you some forward tactile control, kinda like a SF G2z in miniature].

Peter - Brilliant! I looked at your photo thinking - My Baltic doesn't look like that! Then I read your fix. I don't have a supply of O rings and the guys at Home Depot would think I am nuts if I go in and start opening packages. Do you remember the size you used? Thanks. Kirk K

I found another option that I like even better. Remove the post from the back end of the light that holds the split ring, unscrew the brass post that is the negative contact assembly. Out of the Harbor Freight assorted O-Ring kit, the R04 size fits perfectly around the brass negative contact assembly and when snugged up, allows everything to fit just right.

Seeing the results (and changing all my Baltics last night), I'm currious why Peak did not do this from the factory?

 

[Nebula]

TBG - thanks for the tip. I will give it a try tonight. I agree - Peak should consider a fix for the gap at the factory. I love the light - I just don't like the "gap."

BTW - do you have a quick link for Habor Freight? Thanks again. Kirk

 

[Theatre Booth Guy]

TBG - thanks for the tip. I will give it a try tonight. I agree - Peak should consider a fix for the gap at the factory. I love the light - I just don't like the "gap."

BTW - do you have a quick link for Habor Freight? Thanks again. Kirk

www.harborfreight.com I have a store a couple of miles from home and it's much better than waiting for their slow shipping. Of course, the local home improvement store should sell o-rings as well.

I too love the Baltic's - they have become my favorite EDC light.

 

[Nebula]

Brian - I checked out the HF site. Nice! We really don't have anyting like that in the DC area. I grew up in Okla. where there are businesses like HF, here all we have is Home Depot and a couple of Lowes' stores. I checked for mixed selections of O-rings -not much, just a few small mixed packs. I think I will order that HF big box. Thanks. Kirk

 

[lightrod]

Would the Cree XR-E might be a good fit on this light?
If so the wow factor with a small body such as the N cell could be mind blowing.

Anyone know what the tradeoffs would be with the various available cell configurations on an XR-E? Could the single N cell drive this puppy well? Or how about the coin cells?

 

[cave dave]

Brian - I checked out the HF site. Nice! We really don't have anyting like that in the DC area. I grew up in Okla. where there are businesses like HF, here all we have is Home Depot and a couple of Lowes' stores. I checked for mixed selections of O-rings -not much, just a few small mixed packs. I think I will order that HF big box. Thanks. Kirk

Actually there is a HF somewhere around potomic mills.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf?f=detail&Retail_Store_ID=161

I get my O-rings at True Value because they aren't in little bags. You can bring in your light or whatever and try them out. Get some furnature leg caps there too. They fit over the empty bodys to act as caps.

 

[Nebula]

Cave Dave - thanks for the tips. I so rarely get out to Potomac Mills. I-95 is such a hassel these days. I will try to find a True Value location. Thanks. Kirk