Jack blades, Antidrain back is a valve in the oil filter itself... Small block chevy has a good thing going with the upside down filter setup. My surburban is a cinch to change out. If you have a side mount or a upwards cant to your filter the antidrain back keeps the oil on the DIRTY side of the filter from draining back into the engine. That would be the side closest to the can not the part that you can see down into. that part has filtered oil in it.
Car/Truck maintainance/tuning recommendations
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sunspot
Flashlight Enthusiast
I am a member of V8SHO forums and the K&N air filters are used by almost all members.
Nicely handled topic... My 2 cents: Use a good conventional oil in the neglected engine, but change often. Certainly Mobil1 will be fine later if all is well with the vehicle. I run Hastings Filters with Mobil1 and double inntervals. If you're running Mobil1 for high/low temperature benifits the filter is not a big deal, but for long intervals it probably is. With conventional, I'll run 10W-30 in the summer and the specified 5W-30 in winter: the 10W will have more base oil, giving it at least a theoretical advantage. Ofcourse, you can easily make a vehicle last until you are totally sick of it with conventional oils and fluids, at least in average driving. Finally, don't use Mobil1 in your lawn mower, because then the stupid thing will last practically for ever, and what fun would that be?
I went to three auto stores today
1. AutoZone - All Fram/STP filters
2. Kragen - All Fram/STP Filters
3. Specialty Auto Shop (even carries the full Redline and Synergen line of stuff) - All Fram filters.
What the heck?
Also, been using K&N for the past ten years. Couldn't be happier with the extra 5 HP + the nice sounds of sucking.
1. AutoZone - All Fram/STP filters
2. Kragen - All Fram/STP Filters
3. Specialty Auto Shop (even carries the full Redline and Synergen line of stuff) - All Fram filters.
What the heck?
Also, been using K&N for the past ten years. Couldn't be happier with the extra 5 HP + the nice sounds of sucking.
Light-Headed
Enlightened
Hey axolotls,
I posted up above about my dad being an auto mechanic for over 40 years and he highly recommends WIX filters which is what I'm using now. They have a nice website with an area called "where to buy". You can enter your zip code there and it can guide you to the nearest locations that stock them. Hope that helps.
http://www.wixfilters.com/
I posted up above about my dad being an auto mechanic for over 40 years and he highly recommends WIX filters which is what I'm using now. They have a nice website with an area called "where to buy". You can enter your zip code there and it can guide you to the nearest locations that stock them. Hope that helps.
http://www.wixfilters.com/
Darell
Flashaholic
Good stuff guys. I'm glad we seem to have put the octane discussion to bed. That's one of my peeves, actually. And it can all be blamed on marketing. Generally, the public thinks that the higher octane fuel you use, the faster the car goes. Ug. Ryan did a great job of explaining it.
Just for the record, EVs don't have engine oil OR transmission oil. No oil filters or air filters. There is NO service interval for these cars. Oh... and same thing for electric lawn mowers.
Off my box.
Just for the record, EVs don't have engine oil OR transmission oil. No oil filters or air filters. There is NO service interval for these cars. Oh... and same thing for electric lawn mowers.
Off my box.
Light-Headed
Enlightened
Ahhhhh......the old EV1 vs. Saab battle. Is that going to be on pay-per-view again?
I tell you what, the more I find out about Mobil 1 full sythetic oil, the more impressed I am with it. I recently decided I'm going to start changing my own oil (with proper disposal of course), just because I sort of enjoy doing a little work on my own car. I usually just go to one of those quickie oil change places.
Now, I figure with the money I'll be saving, I can put in the Mobil 1 synthetic while I do it. Don't know if I'll start springing for the Mobil 1 oil filter while I'm at it or if I'll just stick with my "tried and true" WIX filters. Either way, I figure it'll be a good combo.
I tell you what, the more I find out about Mobil 1 full sythetic oil, the more impressed I am with it. I recently decided I'm going to start changing my own oil (with proper disposal of course), just because I sort of enjoy doing a little work on my own car. I usually just go to one of those quickie oil change places.
Now, I figure with the money I'll be saving, I can put in the Mobil 1 synthetic while I do it. Don't know if I'll start springing for the Mobil 1 oil filter while I'm at it or if I'll just stick with my "tried and true" WIX filters. Either way, I figure it'll be a good combo.
Minjin
Flashlight Enthusiast
Mobil 1's sucess is the result of marketing, just like Energizer. I thought you guys saw through that stuff??
I'd certainly recommend synthetic on any performance engine, turbocharged engine, and any that you want to live for a couple hundred thousand miles. It just makes things a little better.
There are certainly percentage points to be gained with the various synthetic fluids but whether you or I are capable of noticing it, remains to be said. Our checkbook certainly notices that synthetic stuff though. Try doing a Mobil 1 oil change with an Alfa V6, 7qts at around 5 dollars each. In the end, synthetic is better, but whether its worth the high cost is something your budget needs to decide.
As for oil filters, stay away from Fram. And I'm not quoting some silly website. I've personally had an engine taken out by an internally disintegrated Fram filter and I've taken several off of cars that were well on their way. The better oil filters are the Mann, Hastings, Wix, Purolater Pure One, and others. Take note that many of Napa's filters are made by Wix. However, I don't advocate spending money on expensive oil filters like K&N and Mobil 1. Its simply rediculous.
Brake fluids were mentioned earlier. Use Dot 3 in clutch systems and Dot 4 in main system.
As for coolant, look for a phosphate free and silicate free coolant. The better auto manufacturers sell this style coolant because they don't like lots of their customers coming back for water pump jobs while still in warranty. BMW will even warranty their water pump for life as long as you use their nice blue coolant. The blue Audi, pinkish orange VW, and orange Dexcool (GM) are good as well.
On the subject of GM, they actually specify synthetic transmission fluid for many of their vehicles now. I believe its Dexron V...
As for Saabs...I've worked on many. And there's a very good reason why everyone in my shop has sworn to not allow each other to buy a Saab. No matter how cheap or how nice it appears. Stay Away!
Mark
I'd certainly recommend synthetic on any performance engine, turbocharged engine, and any that you want to live for a couple hundred thousand miles. It just makes things a little better.
There are certainly percentage points to be gained with the various synthetic fluids but whether you or I are capable of noticing it, remains to be said. Our checkbook certainly notices that synthetic stuff though. Try doing a Mobil 1 oil change with an Alfa V6, 7qts at around 5 dollars each. In the end, synthetic is better, but whether its worth the high cost is something your budget needs to decide.
As for oil filters, stay away from Fram. And I'm not quoting some silly website. I've personally had an engine taken out by an internally disintegrated Fram filter and I've taken several off of cars that were well on their way. The better oil filters are the Mann, Hastings, Wix, Purolater Pure One, and others. Take note that many of Napa's filters are made by Wix. However, I don't advocate spending money on expensive oil filters like K&N and Mobil 1. Its simply rediculous.
Brake fluids were mentioned earlier. Use Dot 3 in clutch systems and Dot 4 in main system.
As for coolant, look for a phosphate free and silicate free coolant. The better auto manufacturers sell this style coolant because they don't like lots of their customers coming back for water pump jobs while still in warranty. BMW will even warranty their water pump for life as long as you use their nice blue coolant. The blue Audi, pinkish orange VW, and orange Dexcool (GM) are good as well.
On the subject of GM, they actually specify synthetic transmission fluid for many of their vehicles now. I believe its Dexron V...
As for Saabs...I've worked on many. And there's a very good reason why everyone in my shop has sworn to not allow each other to buy a Saab. No matter how cheap or how nice it appears. Stay Away!
Mark
Minjin
Flashlight Enthusiast
Oh yeah, almost forgot about octane. Many modern cars WILL see a performance increase from a higher octane gas. The knock sensor is constantly keeping of how much knock it has recently seen. The lower the knock counts, the more timing the ECU will give you. This is especially true for turbocharged cars and in lots of other cars in a higher heat situation where the engine is more knock prone.
In some situations, the higher octane gas is held to higher standards and actually does contain more energy per unit volume. This is the case with race gasses. Whether your Sunoco 94 contains more energy than the regular 87, I couldn't say. I know for certain that I've seen better gas mileage with higher octane gas on long trips (where gas mileage is more easily checked). However, this could be due to the situation explained above...
Mark
In some situations, the higher octane gas is held to higher standards and actually does contain more energy per unit volume. This is the case with race gasses. Whether your Sunoco 94 contains more energy than the regular 87, I couldn't say. I know for certain that I've seen better gas mileage with higher octane gas on long trips (where gas mileage is more easily checked). However, this could be due to the situation explained above...
Mark
Darell
Flashaholic
Thanks for the input Minjin. There are many auto mfg's that come factory filled with synthetic transmission fluid, AND synthetic engine oil. My best recommendation for brake fluids - is whatever DOT number is stated right on the filler cap.
Then there is the mileage claim - if ANY vehicle saw better gas mileage on higher octane gas, the mfg would REQUIRE that higher octane gas. MFG's spend all kinds of money and effort to increase their CAFE numbers by tiny fractions. If they could increase that number by simply specifying more expensive gasoline, they'd do it in a heartbeat. Doesn't cost the mfg a thing for free mileage increase! If the mfg requires 87 octane, then (when running properly) it will not run better, offer more power, or get better gas mileage if higher octane is used.
That's the theory, and that's my experience. YMM (and will) V.
The good news is that electricity is all the same octane, and oil changes are free with no crank case. (didn't expect me to just leave without another EV plug, did you?)
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">This is a relative thing. If a given "modern car" can take advantage of higher octane (high compression, advanced timing), it certainly will have a performance increase. My point is that burning a higher octane fuel in an engine designed for lower octane will yield nothing more than slightly more toxic exhuast gasses, and a lighter wallet. Engine knock should only happen on an engine designed for high octane when it is being fired on low octane. Thus, knock sensor-inspired timing decrease only happens when the proper gasoline is not being used in the first place. Pump gasoline has insignificantly LOWER caloric value as octane is increased. High-octane gasoline does NOT burn as easily as lower octane gas... on purpose. Many believe that "super" gas is somehow cleaner and better - again marketing. Federal law now says that all grades must be equally clean.
Then there is the mileage claim - if ANY vehicle saw better gas mileage on higher octane gas, the mfg would REQUIRE that higher octane gas. MFG's spend all kinds of money and effort to increase their CAFE numbers by tiny fractions. If they could increase that number by simply specifying more expensive gasoline, they'd do it in a heartbeat. Doesn't cost the mfg a thing for free mileage increase! If the mfg requires 87 octane, then (when running properly) it will not run better, offer more power, or get better gas mileage if higher octane is used.
That's the theory, and that's my experience. YMM (and will) V.
The good news is that electricity is all the same octane, and oil changes are free with no crank case. (didn't expect me to just leave without another EV plug, did you?)
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">another nice thing about that filter arangement is that you can fill it up before installing it and prevent or lessen the dry start at each oil change.[/QUOTE]That is exactly what I do! thanks for throwing that in!
PhotonRanger
Newly Enlightened
For us manual tranny guys, Redline MTL (Manual Transmission Lubricant) is nice stuff. They have worked out the lubricity just right to protect the gears, but allow the syncros to provide easy shifting. I use Castrol GTX in the motor of my beloved '88 Mazda Truck. My mechanics are racerguys who love this combination. BTW, they say the newer Ford/Mazda trucks have dropped down a notch - get a Toyota for a go forever little truck.
I'll go synth on the next new motor. I have seen a (very, very) old motor go bad from late life application of synth oil (loose sludge clogged an oil passage).
When it Royal Purple first came out eons ago, I tried running it in a BSA motorcycle. Those familiar with either can predict the purple splotched results. Even polishing the case covers with rubbing compound on a sheet of glass and permetex on the gaskets couldn't keep it in everywhere - gave up.
Sabby - get a good paying job if you are into vintage Saabs. The electronic dash models make you feel like a pilot - in dark cockpit emergency.
I'll go synth on the next new motor. I have seen a (very, very) old motor go bad from late life application of synth oil (loose sludge clogged an oil passage).
When it Royal Purple first came out eons ago, I tried running it in a BSA motorcycle. Those familiar with either can predict the purple splotched results. Even polishing the case covers with rubbing compound on a sheet of glass and permetex on the gaskets couldn't keep it in everywhere - gave up.
Sabby - get a good paying job if you are into vintage Saabs. The electronic dash models make you feel like a pilot - in dark cockpit emergency.
Wow this is turning out to be a really educational thread. i think that I will stick to dino oil for now. I do believe, that Fram filters are to be steered clear of. I will use either wix, purolator, or Toyota OEM I still think that Toyota OEM is about one of the best filters out there for Toyotas anyway.
Gotta get my tranny fluid, filter changed, I think I will do it myself. If I can replace a head on a overhead cam 4 cylinder engine by myself at 18 years of age, then i can change the Transmisson fluid... Don't you think?
BTW I am 31 now, almost 32. Man that week long Christmas project seemed like yesterday!
Gotta get my tranny fluid, filter changed, I think I will do it myself. If I can replace a head on a overhead cam 4 cylinder engine by myself at 18 years of age, then i can change the Transmisson fluid... Don't you think?
BTW I am 31 now, almost 32. Man that week long Christmas project seemed like yesterday!
dano
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would avoid Fram, but goofy me jsut put one on my Subbie...Anyways, for an engine that may have been sitting a few days too long, you can run a full synth. oil, change it at 1000 miles, and refill w/a full synthetic and a new oil filter. Contrary to popular belief, Synthetic motor oils do not damage engines, nor are the synths bad for older motors.
Have you talked to a reputable Toyota mechanic about those V-6 engines? I think that was the engine and year in which a large recall was done, due to a faulty head gasket arraingement. goto: www.alldata.com for a list of recalls on your vehicle.
--dan
Have you talked to a reputable Toyota mechanic about those V-6 engines? I think that was the engine and year in which a large recall was done, due to a faulty head gasket arraingement. goto: www.alldata.com for a list of recalls on your vehicle.
--dan
Darell
Flashaholic
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">It says quite a lot about today's higher precision engines that many cars are now coming filled with synthetic from the factory. Many European car mfg's don't spend too much time talking about "break in" any longer. Honda, however, is really weird that way. They say that under NO circumstances should you change the factory fill before 6k miles. Crazy. I usually change it after driving it home off the lot - but somehow they convinced me to leave it in. Some special "break in" mystery goop they say... but won't give specifics.
Electric cars never need to be broken in. (because I just leave the doors open... ha! get it?)
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Well maybe not now (I know---not much about lead acid packs) but LiIon and NiMh batteries like to be cycled a time or 2 boefore they're up to snuff. Minimal break in, but break in nonetheless.
Honda is Honda and they do some amazing stuff. If Honda says don't change it before 6k--don't change it before 6k
Darell
Flashaholic
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Tis true. But they cycle them before they even install them. Only way to make sure everything is at spec capacity, etc. Nobody has noticed any increase of range on the new Rav4's.
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