Check out the new Maratac Nichia AAA Copper!

jon_slider

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LOL
I take it you want a clicky version?:
3EZyPB-U1RFEEvzLkL1n0JkSbSlqvqcTeHqqazOPiOY3Ip5v6Iv7YhGWe8Hsto7uAYeNv9ub0MdyTGUvybl9tFAxnLCQqSq8nGHgZBNvue2A-Ifq2XhUb-0nDmTt5yLm7enTQBGoqU6_7aiEjR5OJIiz9-RpWVQx-C7h9m2xx_9zcP9HuHsDELSKYRTQKBm1G8wrZt_y9RSP1tp78S-pUyuSDt_vb4w1GmEXKezbptMogqN1-wWJfTP45eBk8WANreocVK7yjrhFt9V7XjSPSYFTqAsOSnPpdp8y2hnbOJrsuXtjlROkY5jqcrEZCoNtk2RJQOAKZE3q-pQvcy77eAkyllsV9IAeu43DmTCF4gpYRmD3IAKIYunoLzR_Rh_Y2ITE09icTWq300h9q8WvnTdp2MQ8gm93JCZZ1BBha5FGLe7ihaOKsmP1b3I8IKdtLHVYYqdYnfkzHM0DP6la6Q2AB2oSvap-d9Ka9_Ns0HmzL_PAann6bKjUNEDuPQC-TN0Q_-_clKPUoedIldK0WKsbD_GwujnJknrT45naF7QSdGj4G5I8h5Y-TaheLmyyXTWmk43OSXuqVqyiz1ZG-ssZ_pwxW9QaVvYSXqGd5o3ag5efLnK0=w1199-h900-no
 

LightObsession

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LOL
I take it you want a clicky version?:
3EZyPB-U1RFEEvzLkL1n0JkSbSlqvqcTeHqqazOPiOY3Ip5v6Iv7YhGWe8Hsto7uAYeNv9ub0MdyTGUvybl9tFAxnLCQqSq8nGHgZBNvue2A-Ifq2XhUb-0nDmTt5yLm7enTQBGoqU6_7aiEjR5OJIiz9-RpWVQx-C7h9m2xx_9zcP9HuHsDELSKYRTQKBm1G8wrZt_y9RSP1tp78S-pUyuSDt_vb4w1GmEXKezbptMogqN1-wWJfTP45eBk8WANreocVK7yjrhFt9V7XjSPSYFTqAsOSnPpdp8y2hnbOJrsuXtjlROkY5jqcrEZCoNtk2RJQOAKZE3q-pQvcy77eAkyllsV9IAeu43DmTCF4gpYRmD3IAKIYunoLzR_Rh_Y2ITE09icTWq300h9q8WvnTdp2MQ8gm93JCZZ1BBha5FGLe7ihaOKsmP1b3I8IKdtLHVYYqdYnfkzHM0DP6la6Q2AB2oSvap-d9Ka9_Ns0HmzL_PAann6bKjUNEDuPQC-TN0Q_-_clKPUoedIldK0WKsbD_GwujnJknrT45naF7QSdGj4G5I8h5Y-TaheLmyyXTWmk43OSXuqVqyiz1ZG-ssZ_pwxW9QaVvYSXqGd5o3ag5efLnK0=w1199-h900-no

Yep. I don't do twisties. Usually go with aluminum, also, for the lighter weight for when the 1AAA light is clipped onto the hat brim, shirt pocket or somewhere else on the shirt or clothing. I often activate lights while they're clipped on something, so clickies work better for me.

I'd really like that Maratac right angle 1AAA light with a clickie.
 

LightObsession

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You could buy an Aluminum Tool, and Lego the right angle Maratac head onto it.

They're already expensive enough without paying for two to get one that I'll use. I don't have to funds for that type of messing around - I wish I did.
 

J Smith

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Just ordered the AA Ti Maratac. First Nichia 219. In their pic it looks very yellow,hope it is not.
 

jon_slider

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historical trivia, the knurling is becoming flatter and smoother over time, I suspect that contributes to the price drop

here is a lego
body from April 2015, head from March 2017
the old knurling was really gnarly, and for my delicate hands was too sharp. I actually sanded it down a bit
33481785615_969a630853_b.jpg


detail of the newest knurling, it feels very smooth, I like it fine, as I dont have any problem with slipping and actually like smooth feeling. These lights are like jewelry for me, Im not looking to use them in slippery conditions :)
32667684723_601d0db003_b.jpg
 
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chillinn

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That's pretty cool info. I love grippy knurling so the older models are better for me.

I do, too. Thing is, the material is copper. Even if that knurling was sharp enough new to cut your skin, in three weeks of use, carrying or less, it would be smoothish and dull. I like to remind jon_slider of this and give him a little :poke: grief for sanding down copper knurling... that's almost like dumping salt on your meal before tasting it to see how salty it is initially.

tl;dr the grippy copper knurling wears to reasonably smooth rapidly with normal handling and use, no pre-emptive sanding modifications necessary. Can't speak to other materials, but copper is soft, soft, soft.
 

jon_slider

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the grippy copper knurling wears to reasonably smooth rapidly with normal handling and use
LoL! Baloney :)
I dont salt my food, and I did taste my knurling before sanding it. It has NOT changed, at all in 2 years of pocket carry. It gets its own pocket, not knocking about with keys and change. Did I mention I treat it like jewelry?:)

for people who want sharp knurling, consider the TiTool, it has crosshatch, like the Tain.. what I call a poor finishing process, where they leave all the radial scars from the machining step before applying the crosshatch.. Yes, I definitely sanded my TiTool too :), but then, I have delicate hands.. from sitting at a computer all day

ymmv, but my knurling does not
 

J888www

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They're already expensive enough without paying for two to get one that I'll use. I don't have to funds for that type of messing around - I wish I did.
....or you could just buy 1 Tool Ti with a Nichia.

http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_326612.html

.....electronic metallic tail switch.....

Although the Lumins aren't as high as the Maratac (if the figures are correct) it can be purchased outside the US of A at reasonable costs.

If you prefer copper instead of Titanium then there's this one...

http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_270370.html?wid=21
 

LightObsession

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I prefer aluminum for AAA for the lightness and heat dissipation.

I also want low-med-high mode sequence with direct access to low from off and preferably a good reversible clip that can cap mount.

Copper is too heavy and Ti doesn't dissipate heat well enough.
 

jon_slider

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re the LMH modes:
Not according to the Site's Specifications details....."
Now with 3 levels of brightness ( Medium / Low / High )."


read the whole page and you will see they contradict themselves, so, who are you going to believe? Im waiting for someone to receive their light and report which is right. Countycomm is not known for the accuracy of they cut and paste updates

Copper is too heavy and Ti doesn't dissipate heat well enough.


then you are in the wrong thread :) Its about a Copper twisty
there IS an Aluminum tool w Nichia on Amazon, but not LMH, and no sideways head
what you want, and what you can afford are clearly mutually exclusive

Although the Lumins aren't as high as the Maratac (if the figures are correct)
I doubt the Maratac figures are even remotely correct to begin with, much less with a Nichia

I did buy a copper Tool w Nichia from Gearbest recently, (it took 21 days to reach California) it has the unregulated, inefficient driver, like my Maratac. I really like the Nichia in my CuTool, and Im betting the exact same knurling and LED will be in the Maratac rev4

but, Im waiting for someone to buy me one so I can confirm the mode lumens, regulation, and lack of PWM :),

the Rev4 AA has "nasty PWM" according to gunga, who tolerates fast PWM, so if he says nasty, it means .. I will pass. That was the first reason I did not buy the AA Copper Maratac when it was available recently.. And while Im telling it like it is, I wont buy a Ti Twisty, the threads are gritty. Ti is best suited to clickies imo
 
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snowlover91

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I'll be sure to report the mode sequence and look for PWM when I receive mine! I actually find my AAA Maratac twisty has smoothed out a good bit over time and with the use of "super lube" on the threads. Seems to really help.
 

Thetasigma

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Always a Nichia fan I was interested when I saw the AAA with Nichia, but the AA caught my eye instead as I have never gotten around to putting a useable LED into my rev2 Copper AA.
Have to see if the driver is PWM free or not, and hopefully they are Nichia 219Cs, I've been real pleased with the 4000k 219Cs I've dealt with so far.

Grade 5 titanium with properly cut threads can be pretty smooth, poorly cut and they are like sandpaper.
 

chillinn

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LoL! Baloney :)
I dont salt my food, and I did taste my knurling before sanding it. It has NOT changed, at all in 2 years of pocket carry. It gets its own pocket, not knocking about with keys and change. Did I mention I treat it like jewelry?:)

ymmv, but my knurling does not

Fair enough, j_s! Your hands must be baby soft. I always get complaints about my finger tips and knuckles being too scratchy. I must know: what lotion do you use? :naughty:

You know I'm just teasing!
I probably have some kind of digital fixation. My light is in my hand whether it is being used or not more often than pocket, and I tend to twirl it around my fingers and palm, probably rubbing off the copper knurling faster than most. Aluminum hosts hold their knurling, but maybe it's only me that can smooth out the copper knurling with my calloused hands.
 
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Thetasigma

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Just saw a new countycomm youtube vid. The AAA copper is MLH and the AA Ti is LMH

Just watched the youtube video as well, rather disappointed with the AA Ti, appears to have slow PWM on the medium mode. Have to see how bad it is when they arrive.
 

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